Happijac or Torklift for a 10 foot Alaskan cabover on a RAM 3500 with crewcab?

Dale A

New member
I've seen pros and cons of Happijac vs Torklift debated in general, but I'm wondering what people have used on Alaskan campers in particular. Any recommendations for this combination? Thanks .. Dale
 

Regcabguy

Oil eater.
No Alaskan here but my prior and present truck have used the Happijac product.
No issues at all and the self centering feature up front sure helps.
 

Motafinga

Adventurer
I ran the Torklift frame mounted set-up on my last truck 99 F250 and even though the info I read prior to purchase stated they did not hamper ground clearance they definitely did. The out rigger type attachment points for the chains stuck out quite a bit and I was concerned about catching em on rocks more than once. Also the frame mounts while beefy as hell are also heavy as hell. Torklift is fine for on-road but off-road...??
My current truck has a Happijac set-up but came that way so I just ran it. I do not have the cross member/centering pin set-up though and it's just the basic bolt through the bed type so I comment on that part. I may add that to my set-up down the road. I will say the Happijac is a far cleaner looking set-up and doesn't stick out akwardly like the torklift did.
 

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Regcabguy

Oil eater.
I ran the Torklift frame mounted set-up on my last truck 99 F250 and even though the info I read prior to purchase stated they did not hamper ground clearance they definitely did. The out rigger type attachment points for the chains stuck out quite a bit and I was concerned about catching em on rocks more than once. Also the frame mounts while beefy as hell are also heavy as hell. Torklift is fine for on-road but off-road...??
My current truck has a Happijac set-up but came that way so I just ran it. I do not have the cross member/centering pin set-up though and it's just the basic bolt through the bed type so I comment on that part. I may add that to my set-up down the road. I will say the Happijac is a far cleaner looking set-up and doesn't stick out akwardly like the torklift did.

Motafinga;
My prior '98.5 Ram didn't have the crossbrace or centering feature either and worked great with the same camper on 33 Baja runs. The sheet metal was a notch heavier gauge simiiar to your Ford's era. My '07 Ram like everything else now has a thinner metal and I elected to go with the crossbrace and pseudo frame mount. The added centering feature and crossbracing really makes for a more solid unit.
Clean macheen! My friend scored a one owner '92 3500 Chevy w/utility bed and 8' custom Alaskan.
 

brianjwilson

Some sort of lost...
Guys the torklift mounts can so easily be modified. I cut mine shorter (had them on an f150) and re drilled holes for the pins. The mounts were flush with the rocker panel of the truck. I also swapped sides and turned the mounts up (I don't think I have a good picture any more) but the lost clearance was very minimal.

Not great pictures but this is what I have





With the torklift setup I was sideswiped by a minivan. Damaged the camper frame and and left front jack, minimal damage to my front fender and wheel. The wreck nearly sent me off the road at about 50. Despite some damage to the thin wood frame everything held very solid. Enough for me to give chase in traffic (it was a hit and run) and catch the van. And drive home a few hundred miles. Overall very happy with the heavy but solid torklift mounts.
 
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I have a combination, Happijac on the front and the Torklift in the rear, with Torklift fastguns. The rear bumpers on the newer vehicles are made out aluminum foil, so the Happijac rear attachments aren't a good choice. I've heard some vehicles have issues with the gas doors with the Torklifts. Just something to look at before you get too far down the path
 

Regcabguy

Oil eater.
That's a good compromise.
I drove my rig 100 offroad miles in Southern Utah and the bumper did well.
What I'd like to do is get a real bumper.
 

Stonedog03

New member
I choose Torklift front and rear. The bed and bumper on my 2007.5 Ram are made of tinfoil. As far as clearance goes, the mounts do not stick down any farther than the factory steps in the front and my 5" exhaust will be toast long before the mounts in the rear. I have tested it off road / off camber as far as I really care to go (with a truck / camper) with no issues. I think both systems are fine, it really comes down to what YOU feel comfortable with.
 
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Redline

Likes to Drive and Ride
My prior, recent experience was with a FWC Hawk and then Raven on a Tundra with the typical, internal eyebolt tie-downs. Both worked okay once I got the turnbuckles really tight, then there was less or no loosening.

With my current Hallmark Milner on a '14 Ram 2500, I chose a mix solution which I'm quite happy with thus far. The front uses the HappiJac anchor system across the front of the bed, but the "turnbuckles" are Torklift Fastguns. In the rear I chose simple, tidy, internal blot-down through the camper and truck bed.

Over many miles of technical 4WD terrain recently in May, including some rough use (tossed camper contents), and lots of more tame off-highway travel, the combination has worked well for me. I've only had the camper off/on once, but was surprised that lining up the bolts and holes in the rear was not more difficult than it was. However, it was certainly nice to have a helper pushing the hovering camper when inserting the bolts.

For my use, I knew I didn't want to use the TorkLift frame anchors (rock magnets) nor the HappiJac system in the rear.
 

Regcabguy

Oil eater.
The Fastguns are sure nice but my camper's been off maybe three times in 8 years so I just deal with the threaded ones.
I need to look into a decent rear bumper and kill two birds with one stone. Deflect idiot rearenders and get a more solid mount.
The Happijac centering system sure helps mounting. I've got an experienced friend who helps me mount the camper and it still takes a half dozen attempts.
Now I've got the Dynatrac freespins so 4 lo should make it easier backing up with the G-56.
 

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