unkamonkey
Explorer
Nice report. You look like people I could sit with to swap a few lies with and perhaps have a brew or two.
Happycampers on Tour
- Thread starter Happycamper
- Start date
Happycamper
Adventurer
Glad you are reading, maybe we can have that chat and a brew someday.
Happycamper
Adventurer
More epic travels. End Dec 2015
When we got back to La Paz after our five days in the pampas and jungle of the amazon we received news of cyclist daughter Wendy’s collision with a car. We had to go home. I used up valuable time making calls to travel insurance companies and making bookings. What I should have done was get the car’s temporary import permit extended, but we will be back in a week, right? When we saw Wendy in Australia ,we decided that it would be best for her, boyfriend Lachlan, older daughter Amanda, and Jenny’s state of mind to stay as long as possible (before we absolutely cannot forgo the trip to Antarctica in February). So I went from Australia back to Bolivia alone, to drive the car to Chile, before the permit expired, and park it in Santiago for a month or so.
After two days in planes and airports, Brisbane, Sydney, Santiago, Lima, Santa Cruz and La Paz I was back at the car. Had a big sleep and woke at 7 ish got up and found that it was really 8 ish. Ok no worries that is OK. Eggs for breaky and boil the rest for later, hide the herbs, tea, throw out all other vegs, cheese etc. Finally set off at 1030 after negotiating fuel at the non-tourist price of 7 Bol/litre and drove to the border. Interesting time in the high country. The crossing seemed a little disorganised with bus loads of tourists going in and out and at least 4 km line of truck coming in from Chile. So a bit of time was spent in the queues and ultimately all was done. I had lost another hour due to a time change and it was 1700. I had a great drive down to the sea from 15000 ft in 200 km and finally found a campsite that was open at about 2030, just on dark.
After another big sleep, broken only when the body decided to reject the eggs in a voilent fashion at 0300! I was off to the south. It was a slow start with some ups and a downs for three hours then we were up on the high coastal plain at 3000ft and the going was faster. Super roads, well signed and marked, only a few portions still under roadworks and sometimes speed limit 120. I had a destination in mind and wanted to get to within 1000 km of Santiago (from 2050 at the start of day). Another disappointment when the place was closed, it was 2200 and I had done 1100 km and I was done so I pulled up outside and put up the top, had a beer and hit the hay. It was New Year’s Eve. I heard a car horn at midnight and nothing until 0700 when it was time to do it all again.
I was near the coast but the road went inland again, and up of course, but after only about 200 km I had dual carriageway and it stayed like that all the way in to Santiago. New Year’s day is not a bad day to travel here and the roads were clear of traffic in the main. Had three twenty minute stops to refill the tummy with coffee and sandwiches and soon enough I was at the campsite in the capital.
Next day was a rest day then it was back to Oz to Wendy, Amanda and Jenny.
High pass from Bolivia to Chile
These birds live at 4500 m and must have very cold feet all the year!
Atacama desert
Quality Chilean roads with light traffic
When we got back to La Paz after our five days in the pampas and jungle of the amazon we received news of cyclist daughter Wendy’s collision with a car. We had to go home. I used up valuable time making calls to travel insurance companies and making bookings. What I should have done was get the car’s temporary import permit extended, but we will be back in a week, right? When we saw Wendy in Australia ,we decided that it would be best for her, boyfriend Lachlan, older daughter Amanda, and Jenny’s state of mind to stay as long as possible (before we absolutely cannot forgo the trip to Antarctica in February). So I went from Australia back to Bolivia alone, to drive the car to Chile, before the permit expired, and park it in Santiago for a month or so.
After two days in planes and airports, Brisbane, Sydney, Santiago, Lima, Santa Cruz and La Paz I was back at the car. Had a big sleep and woke at 7 ish got up and found that it was really 8 ish. Ok no worries that is OK. Eggs for breaky and boil the rest for later, hide the herbs, tea, throw out all other vegs, cheese etc. Finally set off at 1030 after negotiating fuel at the non-tourist price of 7 Bol/litre and drove to the border. Interesting time in the high country. The crossing seemed a little disorganised with bus loads of tourists going in and out and at least 4 km line of truck coming in from Chile. So a bit of time was spent in the queues and ultimately all was done. I had lost another hour due to a time change and it was 1700. I had a great drive down to the sea from 15000 ft in 200 km and finally found a campsite that was open at about 2030, just on dark.
After another big sleep, broken only when the body decided to reject the eggs in a voilent fashion at 0300! I was off to the south. It was a slow start with some ups and a downs for three hours then we were up on the high coastal plain at 3000ft and the going was faster. Super roads, well signed and marked, only a few portions still under roadworks and sometimes speed limit 120. I had a destination in mind and wanted to get to within 1000 km of Santiago (from 2050 at the start of day). Another disappointment when the place was closed, it was 2200 and I had done 1100 km and I was done so I pulled up outside and put up the top, had a beer and hit the hay. It was New Year’s Eve. I heard a car horn at midnight and nothing until 0700 when it was time to do it all again.
I was near the coast but the road went inland again, and up of course, but after only about 200 km I had dual carriageway and it stayed like that all the way in to Santiago. New Year’s day is not a bad day to travel here and the roads were clear of traffic in the main. Had three twenty minute stops to refill the tummy with coffee and sandwiches and soon enough I was at the campsite in the capital.
Next day was a rest day then it was back to Oz to Wendy, Amanda and Jenny.
High pass from Bolivia to Chile
These birds live at 4500 m and must have very cold feet all the year!
Atacama desert
Quality Chilean roads with light traffic
Happycamper
Adventurer
Antarctica, Feb 2016
Wendy made good progress with operations to pin pelvis and wrist and by the end of January was fairly independent in a wheelchair with a ramp installed in the house by mel We felt guilty leaving but knew that she was in good hands and what she had had in place would ensure that her care and recovery would continue in the best way possible. We had a trip to Antarctica booked for 6 February and wanted to do it.
We flew back to the camionetta rojo, got our warm clothes and after one night at camp, carried on to Ushuaia where we boarded Sea Spirit for 12 days exploring, hopefully as far south as the Antarctic Circle. The weather was kind to us on the crossing of Drake passage south and most of the time we were near the Antarctic peninsular. Just towards the end we got a bit of breeze which precluded some landings and the ice build up down south meant that we got to within 2 miles of the polar circle only. Disappointing, but you can’t argue with mother nature down here. Drake passage was also pretty rough for 36 hours of our northward crossing with seas to 9 metres and gusts 68 kt!! This kept a few people, like half the 114, passengers out of the dining room for a couple of days! It was exciting trying to hold on to your food, and drink in these times with lots of stuff moving around and sliding on tables. Moving around the vessel gave new meaning to the phrase “keep one hand for the boat”, in these conditions you needed to hang on!
The wildlife here was plentiful but variety lacking. We saw three types of penguin, three types of seals and just two whales and of course many varieties and good quantities of birds. There were excursions ashore every day and many countries’ Antarctic bases were visited, Chile, Argentina, China and a couple of abandoned and restored ones as well. Walking through the penguin rookeries has to be a highlight. We had been anticipating this for many years and it became real for us when we bought the tickets 6 months earlier. We weren’t let down by the realities, it was all wonderful.
Wendy made good progress with operations to pin pelvis and wrist and by the end of January was fairly independent in a wheelchair with a ramp installed in the house by mel We felt guilty leaving but knew that she was in good hands and what she had had in place would ensure that her care and recovery would continue in the best way possible. We had a trip to Antarctica booked for 6 February and wanted to do it.
We flew back to the camionetta rojo, got our warm clothes and after one night at camp, carried on to Ushuaia where we boarded Sea Spirit for 12 days exploring, hopefully as far south as the Antarctic Circle. The weather was kind to us on the crossing of Drake passage south and most of the time we were near the Antarctic peninsular. Just towards the end we got a bit of breeze which precluded some landings and the ice build up down south meant that we got to within 2 miles of the polar circle only. Disappointing, but you can’t argue with mother nature down here. Drake passage was also pretty rough for 36 hours of our northward crossing with seas to 9 metres and gusts 68 kt!! This kept a few people, like half the 114, passengers out of the dining room for a couple of days! It was exciting trying to hold on to your food, and drink in these times with lots of stuff moving around and sliding on tables. Moving around the vessel gave new meaning to the phrase “keep one hand for the boat”, in these conditions you needed to hang on!
The wildlife here was plentiful but variety lacking. We saw three types of penguin, three types of seals and just two whales and of course many varieties and good quantities of birds. There were excursions ashore every day and many countries’ Antarctic bases were visited, Chile, Argentina, China and a couple of abandoned and restored ones as well. Walking through the penguin rookeries has to be a highlight. We had been anticipating this for many years and it became real for us when we bought the tickets 6 months earlier. We weren’t let down by the realities, it was all wonderful.
Happycamper
Adventurer
Thanks Umnak
Thanks for reading, and my advice is, "just do it".
Thanks for reading, and my advice is, "just do it".
Happycamper
Adventurer
Back on the road Late Feb 2016
Two flights and we were back in Santiago and in the truck ready for a bit of overlanding. We hit the road south which for us for the first 1000 km was freeway with a few lovely side trips to campgrounds and lakes and volcanoes. Then we were at Peutro Montt for an oil change and big shopping including a parks pass and fishing license. Here we met up with Overland the World, Jeff and Monica, who had come from the south to this place after eventually shipping from Houston to Uruguay in a container. Was great to catch up and see that their delays to start had been sorted and they were on the road again.
We went over to Chiloe next and spent half a week on this island checking out the wooden churches which are famous here, and UN listed for preservation. You can get a passport and stamps as you enter, and you get see the places you may otherwise pass. We picked up a hitchiker, Oscar, with a little English and we had a nice drive to his city where he invited us to visit with his family. It was a super to meet them and see how this family lives. Just a bit like ours really. At the bottom of Chiloe we caught a ferry to the mainland at Chaiten, 0300 – 0830, and drove to a hot spring for a freshen up before heading inland to Futelefu.
World's best bus stops are on Chiloe
Oscar and family welcomed us in at Chiloe's city Castro.
Not much room to park here but Oscar squeezed us in.
Big tidal range here
Oscar works in the fish farms that were recently damaged by algae blooms
Wooden church, they are everywhere on Chiloe
End of the road, Ruta 5, in Chiloe
Have you everseen so much stuff on a Multi Strada? RTW motorcyclist from Poland swears by this bike for his travels.
Two flights and we were back in Santiago and in the truck ready for a bit of overlanding. We hit the road south which for us for the first 1000 km was freeway with a few lovely side trips to campgrounds and lakes and volcanoes. Then we were at Peutro Montt for an oil change and big shopping including a parks pass and fishing license. Here we met up with Overland the World, Jeff and Monica, who had come from the south to this place after eventually shipping from Houston to Uruguay in a container. Was great to catch up and see that their delays to start had been sorted and they were on the road again.
We went over to Chiloe next and spent half a week on this island checking out the wooden churches which are famous here, and UN listed for preservation. You can get a passport and stamps as you enter, and you get see the places you may otherwise pass. We picked up a hitchiker, Oscar, with a little English and we had a nice drive to his city where he invited us to visit with his family. It was a super to meet them and see how this family lives. Just a bit like ours really. At the bottom of Chiloe we caught a ferry to the mainland at Chaiten, 0300 – 0830, and drove to a hot spring for a freshen up before heading inland to Futelefu.
World's best bus stops are on Chiloe
Oscar and family welcomed us in at Chiloe's city Castro.
Not much room to park here but Oscar squeezed us in.
Big tidal range here
Oscar works in the fish farms that were recently damaged by algae blooms
Wooden church, they are everywhere on Chiloe
End of the road, Ruta 5, in Chiloe
Have you everseen so much stuff on a Multi Strada? RTW motorcyclist from Poland swears by this bike for his travels.
Happycamper
Adventurer
Short excursion to Argentina
We were on the way to pick up out third party insurance papers from our agents, Klaus and Claudia, in Argentina just north of El Bolson. Upon their invitation we camped for two nights on their farm.
A trip to see some giant and old alerce trees was next on the agenda so we set off to the national park near Esquel to prepare for the boat next day. The trees are well protected at the far end of the lake, lago Verde, 90 mins by boat away, but the ride is well worth it to see the trees of 2600 and 2000 years age
Klaus and Claudia went around the world in the 1990s and chose this place in Argentina, south of Bariloche, to make their home. They are doing good things with a school, growing really good sheep and more importantly for us, acting as an agent for insurance in the lower 6 countries of the continent.
Hanging glacier.
Big old tree!
Patagonia has some awesome scenery.
We were on the way to pick up out third party insurance papers from our agents, Klaus and Claudia, in Argentina just north of El Bolson. Upon their invitation we camped for two nights on their farm.
A trip to see some giant and old alerce trees was next on the agenda so we set off to the national park near Esquel to prepare for the boat next day. The trees are well protected at the far end of the lake, lago Verde, 90 mins by boat away, but the ride is well worth it to see the trees of 2600 and 2000 years age
Klaus and Claudia went around the world in the 1990s and chose this place in Argentina, south of Bariloche, to make their home. They are doing good things with a school, growing really good sheep and more importantly for us, acting as an agent for insurance in the lower 6 countries of the continent.
Hanging glacier.
Big old tree!
Patagonia has some awesome scenery.
Happycamper
Adventurer
Carreterra Austral second week March 2016
That night we stayed in a beautiful camp at a winery just inside Argentina, 20 mins to the border, Eco-camping Vinas Nant y Fall. The public transport here is sporadic and not cheap so there are many backpackers hitchiking, or hitchikers backpacking! We can only take one at a time so often enjoyed the company of a tourist with the same destinations as we had in mind. On this day we crossed back to Chile and met Bree from Canada. We were going to drive the rest of the Carreterra Austral to Villa O’Higgins and she came some of the way. This route is famous for its remoteness and scenic outlook. A good portion is dirt/gravel. It starts in Peurto Montt and we had missed that part as we went to Chiloe but rejoined at Chaiten. I think we had about 850 km to the end. The last 250 km have to be done both directions, unless hiking or cycling to Argentina overland via a single track pass.
Puyuhuapi was the destination this night with a little camp where we could get inside a shared kitchen, with a wood fire to keep warm. The tent sites are undercover so I am thinking it rains a bit here. We and Bree went to see a hanging glacier in a national park 30 mins drive south the next day. We did three hikes together and said goodbye to her. The drive for the next 200km goes down some pretty valleys and took us to Coyhaique where we camped near the river. The larder was restocked and then it was off to the water formed caves of Rio Tranquillo. The lago was “too angry” for boating this day so we booked for the next at 0930. It was a great tour and the caves are spectacular.
South again we refuelled at Cochrane and did the 100 km to the ferry to Villa O’Higgins in good time, we were one of the first there but one of the last loaded which meant near the front for unloading. Unfortunately we followed a red ute off the boat and although we caught up to him he would not let us pass. It was dark now and 100 km to destination spent in his dust cloud does not make for a happy driver. OK camp at a hostel.
Another hanging glacier
Pedestrian bridge in the Queulat NP.
Pretty!
Oh for a motorcycle
That night we stayed in a beautiful camp at a winery just inside Argentina, 20 mins to the border, Eco-camping Vinas Nant y Fall. The public transport here is sporadic and not cheap so there are many backpackers hitchiking, or hitchikers backpacking! We can only take one at a time so often enjoyed the company of a tourist with the same destinations as we had in mind. On this day we crossed back to Chile and met Bree from Canada. We were going to drive the rest of the Carreterra Austral to Villa O’Higgins and she came some of the way. This route is famous for its remoteness and scenic outlook. A good portion is dirt/gravel. It starts in Peurto Montt and we had missed that part as we went to Chiloe but rejoined at Chaiten. I think we had about 850 km to the end. The last 250 km have to be done both directions, unless hiking or cycling to Argentina overland via a single track pass.
Puyuhuapi was the destination this night with a little camp where we could get inside a shared kitchen, with a wood fire to keep warm. The tent sites are undercover so I am thinking it rains a bit here. We and Bree went to see a hanging glacier in a national park 30 mins drive south the next day. We did three hikes together and said goodbye to her. The drive for the next 200km goes down some pretty valleys and took us to Coyhaique where we camped near the river. The larder was restocked and then it was off to the water formed caves of Rio Tranquillo. The lago was “too angry” for boating this day so we booked for the next at 0930. It was a great tour and the caves are spectacular.
South again we refuelled at Cochrane and did the 100 km to the ferry to Villa O’Higgins in good time, we were one of the first there but one of the last loaded which meant near the front for unloading. Unfortunately we followed a red ute off the boat and although we caught up to him he would not let us pass. It was dark now and 100 km to destination spent in his dust cloud does not make for a happy driver. OK camp at a hostel.
Another hanging glacier
Pedestrian bridge in the Queulat NP.
Pretty!
Oh for a motorcycle
Happycamper
Adventurer
To Argentina again third week March 2016
The way to Argentina for cyclists and hikers is to first get a ferry from the end of the road which is 7 km away. We were approached by 4 hikers and agreed to take them with us. Three in the front and three in the camper. I don't like to do this but most of these professional hitchers said this was OK compared with some of the vehicles they had been in! We dropped them off and turned our nose back the way we had come with one passenger now, Christian from Germany. We set off early, got the 1700 ferry and then did another 30 km to Tortel. This is a charming place on the shore and hills above with a boardwalk along the front.
Its charm was hard to see in the dark as we sought some place to stay. We found a cabin with a heater and hot shower, which was only 219 steps down from the one place all cars must park. I know as I did three returns to the car for our stuff. Did the boardwalk walk next morning and retraced our steps to Cochrane 100 km away. There is an OK restaurant here for lunch just over the road from the camp area where we stayed.
Wifi was OK so we researched the next day's travel to Argentina via the most southerly pass possible for vehicles, Roballos. Information is a bit sketchy. By chance the next day after we dropped Christain off at the turnoff to Chilli Chico we read in our guide book that Argentina also do do not permit “perishables” to cross the border (we had none for our last entry so did not find out the regs). Our last big shop, three days worth was going to be cooked so that we would not have to give it to the border officers. There is a new, not completed , national park on the way, apparently donated by “Mr North Face” We stopped there in a beaut riverside setting and Jenny cooked while I fished and found wood for a campfire.
The night was quite peaceful as you may expect and next day it was a short drive to the border. Of course the guards did not bother with the fruit and vegs, but we did have to list every piece of electronic gear on board! Once in Argentina we turned to the south to travel through some unusual landforms. Soon after this we noticed that the glass of the window in the door of the camper had dislodged and was sitting a few inches lower, and letting the dust in. Lunch was taken while a repair was made (which has stood up well and is still in place). Saw some armadillo and guanaco on our way to camp near the Caves of Hands. This is rock art of ancient peoples and some is 9000 years old, very interesting.
6 in the pickup, new personal best!
End of another road, Careterra Austral, Ruta 7
Weird animal not seen in Australia!
The way to Argentina for cyclists and hikers is to first get a ferry from the end of the road which is 7 km away. We were approached by 4 hikers and agreed to take them with us. Three in the front and three in the camper. I don't like to do this but most of these professional hitchers said this was OK compared with some of the vehicles they had been in! We dropped them off and turned our nose back the way we had come with one passenger now, Christian from Germany. We set off early, got the 1700 ferry and then did another 30 km to Tortel. This is a charming place on the shore and hills above with a boardwalk along the front.
Its charm was hard to see in the dark as we sought some place to stay. We found a cabin with a heater and hot shower, which was only 219 steps down from the one place all cars must park. I know as I did three returns to the car for our stuff. Did the boardwalk walk next morning and retraced our steps to Cochrane 100 km away. There is an OK restaurant here for lunch just over the road from the camp area where we stayed.
Wifi was OK so we researched the next day's travel to Argentina via the most southerly pass possible for vehicles, Roballos. Information is a bit sketchy. By chance the next day after we dropped Christain off at the turnoff to Chilli Chico we read in our guide book that Argentina also do do not permit “perishables” to cross the border (we had none for our last entry so did not find out the regs). Our last big shop, three days worth was going to be cooked so that we would not have to give it to the border officers. There is a new, not completed , national park on the way, apparently donated by “Mr North Face” We stopped there in a beaut riverside setting and Jenny cooked while I fished and found wood for a campfire.
The night was quite peaceful as you may expect and next day it was a short drive to the border. Of course the guards did not bother with the fruit and vegs, but we did have to list every piece of electronic gear on board! Once in Argentina we turned to the south to travel through some unusual landforms. Soon after this we noticed that the glass of the window in the door of the camper had dislodged and was sitting a few inches lower, and letting the dust in. Lunch was taken while a repair was made (which has stood up well and is still in place). Saw some armadillo and guanaco on our way to camp near the Caves of Hands. This is rock art of ancient peoples and some is 9000 years old, very interesting.
6 in the pickup, new personal best!
End of another road, Careterra Austral, Ruta 7
Weird animal not seen in Australia!
Happycamper
Adventurer
To El Chalton
El Chalton was calling, 504 km distant. The road, Ruta 40 was dirt in the main with various surfaces permitting speeds in the range 40 – 80 km/hr. We were catching up to a cloud of dust when it suddenly stopped. Got there and a little front wheel drive wagon had skidded out, turned 180 degrees and left the road sideways/backwards. Must have been a good ride!
The driver popped two tyres off their rims and was quite agitated. We took the two flats off and reinflated them, and used the spare and got him under way with the help of a grader crew which was passing.
We got to El Chalten at dusk and settled in to a campsite in the middle of town. We toured to the glacier Viedma by boat the following day, biggest in Argentina, and hiked to a view point to Mt Fitzroy and saw condors. We took an hotel room for the night and had a restaurant meal, luxury.
Fixing the window in 30 kts wind and 5 degrees at lunch time
9000 year old art.
Only flat at the bottom
Condor
Mt Fitzroy view pt.
El Chalton was calling, 504 km distant. The road, Ruta 40 was dirt in the main with various surfaces permitting speeds in the range 40 – 80 km/hr. We were catching up to a cloud of dust when it suddenly stopped. Got there and a little front wheel drive wagon had skidded out, turned 180 degrees and left the road sideways/backwards. Must have been a good ride!
The driver popped two tyres off their rims and was quite agitated. We took the two flats off and reinflated them, and used the spare and got him under way with the help of a grader crew which was passing.
We got to El Chalten at dusk and settled in to a campsite in the middle of town. We toured to the glacier Viedma by boat the following day, biggest in Argentina, and hiked to a view point to Mt Fitzroy and saw condors. We took an hotel room for the night and had a restaurant meal, luxury.
Fixing the window in 30 kts wind and 5 degrees at lunch time
9000 year old art.
Only flat at the bottom
Condor
Mt Fitzroy view pt.
Happycamper
Adventurer
Perito Moreno Glacier
We were keen to get to Ushuaia before the weather closed in so did not delay but set off for El Calafate. We took Augie from Seattle, found a reasonable campsite and had a wander around town window shopping. This place is the nearest town to glacier Perito Mereno and is full of tourist traps/shops adventure clothing stores, bars and restaurants. Our day at the glacier started at 1000 with a look at the museum of glaciers, 7 km out of town and on to the main show another 50 km away. The magnitude of the glacier is awesome and it has a real presence, it demands to be looked at and photographed. And that is what we did, for three hours in the sporadic drizzle! There were bits breaking off but these calvings are hard to predict and therefore catch with the camera. We tried.
We were keen to get to Ushuaia before the weather closed in so did not delay but set off for El Calafate. We took Augie from Seattle, found a reasonable campsite and had a wander around town window shopping. This place is the nearest town to glacier Perito Mereno and is full of tourist traps/shops adventure clothing stores, bars and restaurants. Our day at the glacier started at 1000 with a look at the museum of glaciers, 7 km out of town and on to the main show another 50 km away. The magnitude of the glacier is awesome and it has a real presence, it demands to be looked at and photographed. And that is what we did, for three hours in the sporadic drizzle! There were bits breaking off but these calvings are hard to predict and therefore catch with the camera. We tried.
Happycamper
Adventurer
Ushuaia finally End of March 2016
Next day we crossed into Chile again and via overnight at Peurto Natales went to Torres del Paine national park where the campsite was at Lago Azul. This was serenity and beauty rolled into one, with great weather as well. Stayed two days. On our way out of the NP we hiked to a waterfall, had a snack in a heated café (good move), walked to the ferry departure point for Grey Glacier and found our camp just outside the NP. Great spot, individual shelters and bathrooms, we were the only ones here, again. There are no fish in the rivers of Chile I am sure. I tried here again with no success.
Punto Arenas was reached on the Thursday before Easter and in lieu of a campground we ended up in a flat with two bedrooms and most importantly a heater as it was getting chilly. A nice weekend was had with a trip to see to magellanic penguin rookery on an island in the Magellan Strait. It was late in the season and the young had already left, just a few (many) adults remained, completing their moulting before heading out to sea to feed once again.
We hit the road again on Sunday and crossed the Strait via ferry, crossed the border to Argentina and made it to Tolhuin by evening. This was a good camp on a lake with a cool onshore breeze, but we had access to a kitchen and heater which were greatly appreciated
Lago Azul
Magellenic penguins
Next day we crossed into Chile again and via overnight at Peurto Natales went to Torres del Paine national park where the campsite was at Lago Azul. This was serenity and beauty rolled into one, with great weather as well. Stayed two days. On our way out of the NP we hiked to a waterfall, had a snack in a heated café (good move), walked to the ferry departure point for Grey Glacier and found our camp just outside the NP. Great spot, individual shelters and bathrooms, we were the only ones here, again. There are no fish in the rivers of Chile I am sure. I tried here again with no success.
Punto Arenas was reached on the Thursday before Easter and in lieu of a campground we ended up in a flat with two bedrooms and most importantly a heater as it was getting chilly. A nice weekend was had with a trip to see to magellanic penguin rookery on an island in the Magellan Strait. It was late in the season and the young had already left, just a few (many) adults remained, completing their moulting before heading out to sea to feed once again.
We hit the road again on Sunday and crossed the Strait via ferry, crossed the border to Argentina and made it to Tolhuin by evening. This was a good camp on a lake with a cool onshore breeze, but we had access to a kitchen and heater which were greatly appreciated
Lago Azul
Magellenic penguins
Happycamper
Adventurer
Ushuaia
It was hard to leave the Towers but onwards!
Haberton Station was next for a night of free camping on the Beagle Channel. Very peaceful. We had a tour of the buildings and grounds next day and then got to Ushuaia via the end of Ruta 3 for the mandatory photograph and booked ourselves in to a hotel for a couple of days.
It is good to celebrate one’s achievement of having been to the top of North America, Prudhoe Bay Alaska, and the bottom of South America at Ushuaia via heaps of places in between. What an adventure.
Incidently I believe you will soon be able to drive to Peurto Williams remaining in Chile from say Torres del Paine as there are reported road works at 54.58612S, 68.82108 . See iOverlander.
Autumn camping essentials
It was hard to leave the Towers but onwards!
Haberton Station was next for a night of free camping on the Beagle Channel. Very peaceful. We had a tour of the buildings and grounds next day and then got to Ushuaia via the end of Ruta 3 for the mandatory photograph and booked ourselves in to a hotel for a couple of days.
It is good to celebrate one’s achievement of having been to the top of North America, Prudhoe Bay Alaska, and the bottom of South America at Ushuaia via heaps of places in between. What an adventure.
Incidently I believe you will soon be able to drive to Peurto Williams remaining in Chile from say Torres del Paine as there are reported road works at 54.58612S, 68.82108 . See iOverlander.
Autumn camping essentials
Happycamper
Adventurer
We made it
