Has anybody done a TRANS Cooler Upgrade on their 7.3 ambulance?

limatangobravo

Observer
Thanks LTB. With the deep pan, do you loose a bunch of clearance? Could be an issue for trails?

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Good question, I will take a measurement in conjunction with the engine oil pan. I have not had an issue with clearance at this point, It is however much deeper than the original trans pan.
 

VOODOO7.3

Adventurer
No problem! I have a 2003 E-350 EB 7.3 with 160k miles and lots of modifications to mostly further improve reliability, increase longevity, but some more performance is a welcome side effect! I've got her running strong and really quiet considering it is a diesel. That is until I mash the pedal. The aftermarket pans require the deeper filters that come on the trucks, therefore they have to be about 1 1/2"- 2" deeper, which could be a huge problem on a trail due to the fact that the pan is closer to the center of the wheelbase and not protected well. As was stated, they will require several more quarts of fluid to no real benefit for cooling. Best bet is to go with 6.0 cooler upgrade and the next best improvement would be to run Mobil 1 synthetic transmission fluid. Cheers!
 

Abitibi

Explorer
VOODOO, care to share your other mods? Maybe start a new thread, we are all always eager to hear from first hand experience...

Cheers

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4x4pair

Adventurer
VOODOO, care to share your other mods? Maybe start a new thread, we are all always eager to hear from first hand experience...

Cheers

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I second that since it's exactly the same platform I have.

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VOODOO7.3

Adventurer
VOODOO, care to share your other mods? Maybe start a new thread, we are all always eager to hear from first hand experience...

Cheers

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Sure thing! Just not even sure where to start! I was thinking about starting a build thread anyway so I could start it with what's already been done. I have pics of previous work done too. I've been working on all kinds of other projects lately so I'll get it started as soon as I can!
 

gtbensley

Explorer
My ambo has the stock cooling for the tranny and I almost never so it go above 170 ever. The coolant temp will spike once and a while but I dont have a digital readout to get exact temps. Thinking I might also do the 6.0 cooler just to be on the safe side.
 

Mwilliamshs

Explorer

would be sweet if that fan's a puller and could mount behind the AC condenser to do double duty...doubt I have the clearance and doubt it'd be thermally efficient enough to be worthwhile. 105* days make me think crazy things

I've done the 6.0 cooler swap on my 2002 DRW CC 7.3 and it made a big difference. My truck has the optional OE trans temp gauge so the temp reduction was immediately visible and confirmed via ScanGauge.
 
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FDM2012

Adventurer
Yeah, I already bought the Derale, but I will probably just throw it on a shelf and go ahead and
try to find a 6.0 24 row. I get so impatient sometimes.......

However, I'm not having any luck finding one on RockAuto. Oh where, oh where, for art thou TransCooler?!?!

Just trying to make sure I get the correct one.....
 
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VOODOO7.3

Adventurer
Yeah, I already bought the Derale, but I will probably just throw it on a shelf and go ahead and
try to find a 6.0 24 row. I get so impatient sometimes.......

However, I'm not having any luck finding one on RockAuto. Oh where, oh where, for art thou TransCooler?!?!

Just trying to make sure I get the correct one.....

Go to Ford, 2006, F-350, 6.0 diesel, turbocharged, transmission, oil cooler, then scroll down til you find the Dorman 26 row for about $175. That's it! You can also get them from PartsGeek.com.

FYI, If any of you own 2002-2003 7.3 vans, your 4R100 Transmission already has an improved triple disc torque converter. Therefore, the only two things you really need to worry about is keeping temps down and good clean Mercon V or better yet, Mobil 1 transmission fluid. Beyond that, a TransGo shift kit,Sonnex Kit, or John Wood valve body, would be my next move. I have AutoMeter gauges in a triple A-pillar pod. Pyrometer, Trans temp, and fuel pressure.

I can also see trans temp (and tons of other cool stuff like reading and clearing codes, and changeable heads up display gauges) with Torque Pro app (on a cheap Android tablet). If you have iOS phone or iPad, get DashCommand app. The apps are around $7, then all you need is a wifi OBD2 adapter that plugs into diagnostic port below your column. I bought a VeePeak OBD2 WiFi adapter from Amazon for $18. It takes a few hours to set up your vehicle profile, get familiarized with the app, and learn all the critical functions, but I think it's well worth it. If you're tech savvy, you can even program custom PIDs, and I use mine for monitoring and diagnosing multiple vehicles. I recommend getting the WiFi adapter as opposed to Bluetooth, because it relays more data faster and doesn't interfere with using Bluetooth hands free devices. The VeePeak and some others will work with both Torque Pro and DashCommand, on both Android (Windows) as well as iOS (Apple) devices. The apps can "see" all data that your vehicle's computer sees. On my 2003 7.3, I can see RPM's(yes, a tachometer!), transmission temp, Boost, engine oil temp, actual voltage, intake air temp, ICP voltage, IPR, HPOP pressure, transmission gear, torque converter slip, exhaust back pressure, etc., and some custom PIDs. The only thing I can not see on the 7.3 is coolant temperature because the van's computer can't see that either even though there is a sensor sending a signal to the little temp gauge on the instrument cluster. Hope this helps some of you to have an inexpensive way to monitor your rides! For $25, you can't go wrong. Cheers!
 
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Abitibi

Explorer
Great input again, thanks! I have a Scangauge and quite happy with it but my tech savvy neighbour (who's designed me a Bluetooth remote switch system) also went the cheap way to monitor his stats and is very happy with the results!

Cheers
David



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stormlover

Adventurer
Dorman?

Personally, I'm not a big fan of putting anything made by Dorman on my van. Seems to be hit or miss wrt quality. Anyhow, I put a 40K Tru-Cool Max in my van with a 6.0. It was intended as an upgrade for the 7.3. It's a fin and plate design. So far, 190F has been the high and that was in slow rush hour traffic in 100F heat. 165F is about the norm but also with on the 5R110 tranny. Lots of guys are running this cooler on the 7.3. http://www.dieselsite.com/specialordertru-cool4739transmissioncooler.aspx
 

VOODOO7.3

Adventurer
Personally, I'm not a big fan of putting anything made by Dorman on my van. Seems to be hit or miss wrt quality. Anyhow, I put a 40K Tru-Cool Max in my van with a 6.0. It was intended as an upgrade for the 7.3. It's a fin and plate design. So far, 190F has been the high and that was in slow rush hour traffic in 100F heat. 165F is about the norm but also with on the 5R110 tranny. Lots of guys are running this cooler on the 7.3. http://www.dieselsite.com/specialordertru-cool4739transmissioncooler.aspx

Storm, I know 5 guys running the Dorman cooler and no problems at all. The worst thing about Dorman is their thin packaging though. I have read reviews on some arriving with a few bent fins. I'm sure the OP knows they could also order the factory Ford 6.0 cooler for quite a bit more money. The most important thing is don't buy a used cooler. There's no good way to flush a plate and fin cooler clean! If you don't mind me asking, did you add an additional cooler to the existing one on your 6.0, or replace your original with it? And why? The OP has a 4R100, which doesn't reach optimal operating efficiency until it hits 170 degrees. No adverse effects up to 220 degrees. The 6.0/5R110 is a whole other animal, but the cooler is one of it's stronger points!
 

stormlover

Adventurer
Storm, I know 5 guys running the Dorman cooler and no problems at all. The worst thing about Dorman is their thin packaging though. I have read reviews on some arriving with a few bent fins. I'm sure the OP knows they could also order the factory Ford 6.0 cooler for quite a bit more money. The most important thing is don't buy a used cooler. There's no good way to flush a plate and fin cooler clean! If you don't mind me asking, did you add an additional cooler to the existing one on your 6.0, or replace your original with it? And why? The OP has a 4R100, which doesn't reach optimal operating efficiency until it hits 170 degrees. No adverse effects up to 220 degrees. The 6.0/5R110 is a whole other animal, but the cooler is one of it's stronger points!

Cool. Just my preference, I'm sure Dorman makes some nice stuff but I try to stick to OEM on most engine parts. I didn't consider the 26 or 31 row tranny cooler from the F series with a 6.0 psd as it won't fit in the E series. You suggest it does, at least on an older, pre-2003 van with the 7.3? I believe the 26 row came out later so maybe it was the 31 row that initially didn't fit.

Just my opinion but the stock cooler on the vans with a 6.0 is not a strong point. It's not up to the task and is ~5 times smaller than the F series cooler. At least not on a camper van that weighs upwards of 10,000 lb. Many of us also have aftermarket bumpers which also block air flow. I was routinely above 200F and much higher at times when rock crawling. Max was 275F going over 12,000' Imogene Pass in the San Juan Mountains.

I only posted to suggest an alternative that worked for me that has 3/8" fittings; whereas the 26 row is 1/2". It's pretty much a direct bolt-in replacement especially for vans with the 7.3. But if the 26 row OEM cooler will fit that is good news as well and can be found for less than $300. http://parts.autonationfordwhitebea...ransmission-cooler/5c3z-7a095-ca/?parent=1064


stock E series cooler with a 6.0
stock tranny cooler.JPG


Tru-Max 40k cooler installed as a replacement.
Tru-Cool Installed.jpg
 

stormlover

Adventurer
:Wow1:

Did you finish that trip without a trans rebuild?

Above 250 is pushing into meltdown territory.

I like to keep things below 220 at all times.

Fluid was clean and didn't smell burned. But that event prompted the replacement with the Tru-Cool 4739 unit and the reduction in temp is impressive ~30F at normal operating temp. It's hard to find definitive information on how hot is too hot. Just lots of opinions. Ford does not publish a number and the idiot light doesn't even come on at 250F. I've read that you can hit 300F before really cooking things and 250F is actually ok for short periods. It also depends on where the temp probe is located. My pan reading is 10 to 15F cooler than what the PCM is reading.

I'm after reliability and peace of mind. I'll take quality over price but don't know whether there is much difference between the Dorman and OEM.
 

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