So I was browsing Luso Overland and decided to take a flyer on the Tre TE110 E locker for the front diff of my 1997 SR. Got some 4.90 gears from the junkyard so I can do it all in one go. Package arrives safe and sound. Looks pretty slick, but came with no instructions, so thats cool. Did some searching and found an installation manual for a different model Tre E locker. Instructions are pretty Chinglish-y, also cool. Got my fresh used 4.90 ring gear mounted up, go to mount it in my diff housing and the anti-rotation brackets won't even clear the housing. Nor will they clear the caps. Super cool. Before I start winging it and cutting stuff... Anyone successfully install one of these things?
Has anyone successfully installed a Tre E locker? (TE110 Front Locker)
- Thread starter macdrew77
- Start date
Toasty
Looking for that thing i just had in my hand...
When you get an ARB it comes with alternate bearings IIRC. Did those bearings come with the kit? I'm guessing the anti rotation tabs will fit if the bearing caps are dropped into place over the correct bearings. I don't have any experience with TRE but I've installed some RD110's without issues.
maximluchnik
Member
Someone correct me if I’m wrong, but you cannot fit a selectable front locker in the stock front diff. Most get around this by swapping in a non-disconnect front carrier from an AWD Montero Sport.
Bearings are same as stock ones, but Timken instead of NSK. It looks like my options are to shave down the caps a little or just do some creative bending and cutting of the anti rotation tabs. Not sure how I will proceed.
So is there more space inside the diff housing of the AWD Montero Sports? I could have bought the whole thing instead of just the ring and pinion while I was at the junkyard. (I will note that the side that has clearance issues is the opposite side of the axle disconnect.)
So is there more space inside the diff housing of the AWD Montero Sports? I could have bought the whole thing instead of just the ring and pinion while I was at the junkyard. (I will note that the side that has clearance issues is the opposite side of the axle disconnect.)
Toasty
Looking for that thing i just had in my hand...
@maximluchnik you can install a locker into an axle disconnect diff no problem. @macdrew77 Have you tried installing the outer race into the bearing cap and then placing it onto the bearing? Otherwise just bend the tabs out then bend them back after the cap is in place.
CharlieNorth
Well-known member
Why? No one else has problems doing it.
I’m gonna try that next, the tabs are thick stainless and pretty hard to bend but I’ll get it done. Thanks for your insight
In case anyone is wondering what it takes to get the TRE TE110 to fit here’s what I had to do:
The “anti rotation tabs” need to be bent outward a bit and trimmed down to clear your diff case. I also filed a bit of rough casting off of the caps to maximize clearance.
Once it physically fits in your diff housing then you begin the process of setting backlash and pinion depth, etc.
The “anti rotation tabs” need to be bent outward a bit and trimmed down to clear your diff case. I also filed a bit of rough casting off of the caps to maximize clearance.
Once it physically fits in your diff housing then you begin the process of setting backlash and pinion depth, etc.
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CharlieNorth
Well-known member
I beg to clarify, Presuming you are only changing the diff and not the gears as a different ratio requires. You do not tough the pinion. If it was right from the factory you can not make it better. You are best to not change the running relationship of gears. All you want to do is reset the backlash and preload to what it was.
Massive photo dump (not taken well, I'm a terrible photographer) but I wanted to add onto this. I have a 97 Montero LS with 4.6 gears and a factory rear air locker installed. I picked up the same TRE E-Locker (TE110) and am still working through the install and control arm bushing replacements.
I had the same issues as Macdrew77 with the anti-rotation tabs hitting the differential case and the driver side bearing caps. I ended up grinding more on the bearing caps and the anti-rotation tabs than Macdrew77 did - I didn't want to try bending the tabs, since I was going to have to grind them down anyway to fit into the case.
My locker didn't come with new bearings - I reused the old ones.
I had the same issues as Macdrew77 with the anti-rotation tabs hitting the differential case and the driver side bearing caps. I ended up grinding more on the bearing caps and the anti-rotation tabs than Macdrew77 did - I didn't want to try bending the tabs, since I was going to have to grind them down anyway to fit into the case.
My locker didn't come with new bearings - I reused the old ones.
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SouthIslandPajero93
New member
Hi all, I am likely going to get the same locker. Care to update us on how it performs after you have driven it a few times. Given the minor problems with the install would you buy it again? I assume the air locker from TRE would have similar issues?
Hoping to take it on a trip this week on the north rim of the Grand Canyon but no super-difficult trails so not sure how much of a workout it will be!
I’m still finalizing the install of the diff; today I figured out why, after I installed the carrier into the housing and added the diff disconnect, there were 2 right spots when rotating the pinion.
the stub shaft (not sure what the right term is for it) that the axle disconnect engages/disengages was hitting the center pin of the diff carrier (not sure what it’s called on a locked carrier but on a normal diff it would be holding the spider gears in there). You can see the grease transfer from the end of the shaft onto that pin.
I would probably still go for the TRE again, not sure if the air locked is more sorted out but I’m too cheap to pay for an ARB
I’d expect some more time getting it shimmed correctly and be careful on install to make sure everything is OK. If you want new bearings and/or don’t have a bearing puller to remove the old ones from the original diff, make sure you plan for new bearings (I didn’t get new ones with the elocker, maybe the air locker comes with them)
I’m still finalizing the install of the diff; today I figured out why, after I installed the carrier into the housing and added the diff disconnect, there were 2 right spots when rotating the pinion.
the stub shaft (not sure what the right term is for it) that the axle disconnect engages/disengages was hitting the center pin of the diff carrier (not sure what it’s called on a locked carrier but on a normal diff it would be holding the spider gears in there). You can see the grease transfer from the end of the shaft onto that pin.
I would probably still go for the TRE again, not sure if the air locked is more sorted out but I’m too cheap to pay for an ARB
I’d expect some more time getting it shimmed correctly and be careful on install to make sure everything is OK. If you want new bearings and/or don’t have a bearing puller to remove the old ones from the original diff, make sure you plan for new bearings (I didn’t get new ones with the elocker, maybe the air locker comes with them)Attachments
SouthIslandPajero93
New member
Cool, thanks for the input guys. It sounds like a good way forward without breaking the bank.
SONICMASD
Adventurer
Hi all, I spoke to TRE about the need for clearancing the various parts of the lockers posted here and they confirmed that they are aware of this and that they believe it to be a normal part of the fitment/installation process. In the elocker instructions it even says to bend the anti-rotation tabs to fit. I also confirmed that if someone filed a part, rather than bent it (like the instructions say to in the case of the anti-rotation tabs), that this would not void the warranty and they confirmed that it would not void the warranty and is often the proper and only way to achieve the clearances needed. Personally, I believe they're making a lot of these parts in large batches and using them for multiple locker models that are "close enough" and leaving it up to the installer to tweak rather than make a mold, etc. for each part, for each specific model.
I also spoke to my mechanic who has probably installed more TRE lockers than anyone in the USA and he said that in his experience, about 1 out of every 4 TREs require a deeper level of clearancing/adjusting to get them to fit correctly. He says they are less refined than the ARB or Eatons he installs which usually don't require as much to get them fitted.
Additionally, looks like these clearance issues mainly affect the E Locker and Crab Locker models. The Air Locker (ARB Clones) don't seem to have these issues - could be because the design does not have anti-rotation tabs sticking out the side and also because I've been told they took over ARB's old China factory when ARB moved and are using the exact same tooling for their ARB air locker clones - but I have to take this with a grain of salt as there's obviously no way to confirm.
I hope that helps anyone thinking of getting a TRE4x4 locker.
Best,
Marco
Luso Overland
I also spoke to my mechanic who has probably installed more TRE lockers than anyone in the USA and he said that in his experience, about 1 out of every 4 TREs require a deeper level of clearancing/adjusting to get them to fit correctly. He says they are less refined than the ARB or Eatons he installs which usually don't require as much to get them fitted.
Additionally, looks like these clearance issues mainly affect the E Locker and Crab Locker models. The Air Locker (ARB Clones) don't seem to have these issues - could be because the design does not have anti-rotation tabs sticking out the side and also because I've been told they took over ARB's old China factory when ARB moved and are using the exact same tooling for their ARB air locker clones - but I have to take this with a grain of salt as there's obviously no way to confirm.
I hope that helps anyone thinking of getting a TRE4x4 locker.
Best,
Marco
Luso Overland
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