HazVan - 2002 E-350 SuperDuty 7.3l PSD

[turbodiesel]

Inside has changed a bit since I last posted what it looked like. Also welded up a cargo carrier for above the aluminess box. Mostly as a cheap way to mount ski racks on the back. Buying the steel to make my own was more expensive than buying a harbor freight one and customizing to my needs. Economy of scale I guess... Removable cross pieces at not pictured, paint is drying.

 

[iggi]

@turbodiesel Maybe I missed it in your build but what's the bench seat from? Happy with it?

 

[Bikersmurf]

Swapped out the transmission cooler for a trucool cooler. Fairly quick, took about two hours. I have the bypass as well but haven't installed it yet.

I’ve been looking at a couple of different TruCool options. Which on did you go with?

 

[turbodiesel]

I’ve been looking at a couple of different TruCool options. Which on did you go with?

Tru-Cool Max LPD4739 4739 40,000 GVW Low Pressure Drop Transmission Oil Cooler with Thermal Bypass

It's very good. I need to install the bypass as the temp rarely exceeds 150 in non mountain grade driving. I suspect in winter conditions it'll be necessary to get the transmission up to temp.

 

[turbodiesel]

@turbodiesel Maybe I missed it in your build but what's the bench seat from? Happy with it?

Ford Transit 15-19 31" 2 person seat new take out. Bought it of eBay for $300 with mounting rails. I'm extremely happy with it. It's easy enough to remove and installation wasn't bad. I added aluminum plates underneath to reinforce the mounting points. It also has headrests but I remove them unless someone is sitting there; that allows me to see out the back.

I needed 31" to fit my van but it's a little small with two adults for a long road trip. For eating at the table it's fine though. Kids have no issues.

 

[iggi]

Ford Transit 15-19 31" 2 person seat new take out. Bought it of eBay for $300 with mounting rails. I'm extremely happy with it. It's easy enough to remove and installation wasn't bad. I added aluminum plates underneath to reinforce the mounting points. It also has headrests but I remove them unless someone is sitting there; that allows me to see out the back.

I needed 31" to fit my van but it's a little small with two adults for a long road trip. For eating at the table it's fine though. Kids have no issues.

Thanks!

 

[Bikersmurf]

Tru-Cool Max LPD4739 4739 40,000 GVW Low Pressure Drop Transmission Oil Cooler with Thermal Bypass

It's very good. I need to install the bypass as the temp rarely exceeds 150 in non mountain grade driving. I suspect in winter conditions it'll be necessary to get the transmission up to temp.

Sounds like the one I saw. I wondered if the Bypass was necessary... but based on your numbers it sounds beneficial. I’m sure my stock one leaves something to be desired (9k+ rig empty, 8.5’ tall, 7.5’ wide).

 

[turbodiesel]

Sounds like the one I saw. I wondered if the Bypass was necessary... but based on your numbers it sounds beneficial. I’m sure my stock one leaves something to be desired (9k+ rig empty, 8.5’ tall, 7.5’ wide).

I'd suggest installing without it and then testing. It shouldn't be too much effort to cut the line and put in the by-pass. I was waiting on my winter trips to make the final call. Those didn't happen with Covid, so I haven't added it yet.

I think in winter it might be needed. Depending on who you ask/read 150/160/170 is the ideal temp. In my view if it's between 140-180 that's a'ok.

 

[turbodiesel]

Started tearing down the axle to regear the front axle from 3.73 to Yukon 4.30.

Bearing removal was a huge problem with removing the external snap ring. Try cheap ring pliers, they broke. Channel lock brand snap ring pliers set, while very nice, was too bulky. Returned. If you have to remove the wheel bearing on a 2005+ F250/350 axle, the tool for the job is KNIPEX https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YYMDK/

Trust me, with that it took less than 30 seconds to remove both.

Axle removal was brute force. Get a large pry bar, I used a 36" Estwing, and pry side to side until it just pops loose. Took longer than I thought it would but just keep at it.

Knuckle removal is optional, but the ball joints were pretty worn and needed to be replaced.

Finally was able to remove the diff after draining the rest of the gear oil. It was surprisingly easy. Take large pry bar, stick it behind the diff and between the housing and leverage. Out the diff came.

Next up is the tedious part of preloads and bearing replacements.

 

[turbodiesel]

Installed the spring perch and bolted it down. One thing to note is the shock point for the spring perch needs the Ford 24-06213-32369 nut with the little arm. I originally tried putting a 3/4" nut on there and realized no wrench would fit in there. Definitely a couple minutes of confusion. It's also supposed to use Ford W500765-S439 bolt, but as I was prepping I checked my spreadsheet and they never arrived. I used the McMaster grade 10 bolts in it's place.

Sanded and gave the axle a first coat of paint. Not looking for show room quality here, just clean off surface rust and paint it to help keep it from coming back.

Got the pinion and seals out. Working on the bearing chase. Then it'll be on to test fitting the new gear.

 

[turbodiesel]

Already made a mistake in not looking at my spreadsheet on install order. Radius arms need to be installed on the axle before the MG Shock/Spring mounts.

Lower spring mounting orientation diagram

 

[CaptainBuilt]

Looking good. Axles are a lot of work!

 

[turbodiesel]

Looking good. Axles are a lot of work!

No kidding. Essentially this turned in to an axle rebuild. Redo the diff, all axle seals, wheel bearings, and ball joints. (I would have reused the wheel bearings, but got 2 Moog for the price of 1.) By the end of this I'm going to have a massive spreadsheet.

 

[turbodiesel]

Refreshed the ball joints in the front axle. The top ball joints were original and totally shot. Not hard to replace if you're already tearing the axle down. Which you basically are required to inorder to do the replacement.

Replaced with Moog ball joints as I don't want to ever tear this axle down again.

Pro tip for installing the ball joints, they get installed in the same order they are removed. Remove bottom ball joint, then top, then install bottom ball joint, and install top. (Picture here is upside down)

 

[turbodiesel]

Diff regear continues as well. Disassembled the old pinion and removed the gear from the carrier. Awaiting a shop press to finish the assembly. Highly recommend a 12" brass drift for getting pieces out. Next to impossible with a 6" or 7" drift.