HazVan - 2002 E-350 SuperDuty 7.3l PSD

[turbodiesel]

Donor van mechanicals are trash. The engine runs but barely. Body is rusted out. Frame is super rusted. On and on. Plus it's only a 4.9l gasser. Mine is a 7.3l diesel.

Large structure meant it was easy to slide off and back on. It's heavy so picking it up isn't a one man operation.

 

[turbodiesel]

I'll be putting up the van for parts. If anyone is in the Los Angeles area let me know if you need sportsmobile interior parts. Swivel seat, curtains, etc

 

[turbodiesel]

Swapped out the transmission cooler for a trucool cooler. Fairly quick, took about two hours. I have the bypass as well but haven't installed it yet.

 

[turbodiesel]

Check in for the transmission cooler. It's made a substantial difference in temps going up the grapevine or Schwinn grade. Driving around town it's around 140, rises a bit freeway going 70 in temp 90+. Will get up to standard 170 going up grade in temps over 70. Haven't seen it over 190 since the install. While the cooler does have a built in bypass, I'll probably add the inline bypass for the winter as I suspect the trans will take forever to get up to temp without it.

Overall, I'd recommend as an easy upgrade if trans temps are a concern.

 

[turbodiesel]

Next up for the HazVan, MG Metal 4x4 conversion. Looked at all the various kits and even drove a couple but decided on MGs kit balancing cost and part availability. Liked the use of standard or easily obtained aftermarket parts, plus option of using a newer axle with lower mileage and bigger brakes. That's not to knock any of the other options out there, but personally this seemed the best for me to diy. Ideally a 2016 axle would have been best, but those with a 4.30 are significantly harder to find than a '13-15. Ended up with a set off of a 2014 F350SD (front 100K miles, rear 22K miles).

Currently waiting for the axles to arrive, meanwhile it's time to start buying parts from my spreadsheet. My garage will soon be a stock room...

 

[turbodiesel]

MG caster adjustment for the radius arms. First go was a mess, the other three cuts were more precise.

With a digital caliper I measured 10mm over in-line with the current opening. Then marked the hole with a white paint pen and attempted to cut it out with a jigsaw and Dremel to finish. The next three I made a smaller cut with the jigsaw, used a large tooth file to make it the correct size and then removed burs with a Dremel. This was more manual effort but a much better result.

Next up for the radius arms is prep and clean for welding the plates on.

 

[turbodiesel]

4x4 Conversion is beginning. I have the axles, although there was a slight hick-up on the front axle. The axle they sent was a '14 3.73 not a 4.30. Luckily they refunded me the full amount and let me keep the axle. The crappy part is now I'm delayed in starting the under van work. I had options of re-gear this or sell and find another. I decided to tackle re-gear the front axle as finding another 13-16' 4.30 axle with decent mileage is a challenge. I'm taking this as an opportunity to learn how to re-gear an axle. It'll be fun right?

 

[Raul]

You may want to consider adding a front locker or LSD since you are messing with the front axle.

The spread sheet you posted is great. I wish I had it when I was doing my van. I still may use it for a few item. Thanks.

I've seen on the sheet that you may add steering stabilizer. Try first without. I put dual stabilizes from Rough Country and I hated the numb feeling.

 

[turbodiesel]

You may want to consider adding a front locker or LSD since you are messing with the front axle.

This is a good point, any recommendations? I don't really want to introduce air lockers, so maybe an electric locker. LSD would likely be cheaper and just easier overall. I'm not planning to do any serious rock crawling, so a LSD would likely be fine for mud/snow. (Edit) Actually looks like LSD can be terrible upfront in snow. Seems either you want full lock or open.

The spread sheet you posted is great. I wish I had it when I was doing my van. I still may use it for a few item. Thanks.

Glad it's of some use. I figured I might be able to save someone some time. Putting together the purchase list with places to buy from is a bit of a PITA, but with ordering so many parts I had to do it so I could track what/when/how each item.

I've seen on the sheet that you may add steering stabilizer. Try first without. I put dual stabilizes from Rough Country and I hated the numb feeling.

Plan was to try without as I want to be sure I'm not hiding a problem. I already ordered the PMF bracket and have two of the fox shocks. Maybe I'll start with the single and see what that gets me.

 

[turbodiesel]

I had my thought going towards returning the Yukon 4.30 and getting a Elite gear 4.30 with a zip locker. It's on the front axle so I doubt if the gear sees more than 1K in it's lifetime, so I probably don't need Yukon quality there. Problem with that is, I don't see any kits with a 4.30 gearing.

Talked with Rons Machining Service where I bought the new gears from and for the van conversion with F350 axles they recommend either leaving it open or using a LSD like Dana 60 Powergrip Posi LSD 4.10-DN 35 Spline. Decisions decisions. After reading up on lockers I'm truly confused ? I'm leaning toward either open diff or locker. Read too many posts on LSD not being great on a front axle for daily driving.

*Edit* After talking through it with a buddy I think I'll throw in a Dana 60 Trac Lock Posi unit. Should be able to find one for $300-400 and for limited use it should be fine. They can wear out after 50K when they are on the rear but that shouldn't be an issue on the front.

 

[Raul]

I am in the fence on front lockers as well. I don't think I'll like to go with a lunchbox type. If I go locker I'll either go with a Torsen (worm gear as in the military H1 Hummers) or a mechanical full locker like the OX. All being said, so far with a rear OEM clutch LSD and open front I've done fine.

 

[turbodiesel]

I am in the fence on front lockers as well. I don't think I'll like to go with a lunchbox type. If I go locker I'll either go with a Torsen (worm gear as in the military H1 Hummers) or a mechanical full locker like the OX. All being said, so far with a rear OEM clutch LSD and open front I've done fine.

Hear you on Open Front and LSD Rear. That was the plan before having to re-gear. Lunchbox style is attractive as the price is cheap and it'll likely see only minimal mileage. The more I think about it, the less inclined I am to change it from an open diff.

• Open diff (Free)
  • Pro: Known Driving characteristics, Free
  • Con: One wheel looses traction, no drive
• LSD - Lunchbox ($)
  • Pro: Cheap, reliable for low mileage, simple to install
  • Con: LSD in the front can be harsh steering in corners, Lunchbox even more so
• LSD - True LSD ($$)
  • Pro: Traction, city driving ok
  • Con: Cost, in front axle can be harsh
• Selectable Locker ($$$)
  • Pro: Pros from the open diff, on off as needed, selectable on the fly
  • Con: Cost, install complexity

 

[Bikersmurf]

Your rigs weight distribution is likely different than mine. In mine, I’d be most concerned about rear traction. It’s got 6000 lbs over the rear axle. Experience has shown that both rear wheels will stay on the ground and front wheels will be airborne quickly. Thus making open diffs and LSD less useful. I’d not want a locker that I can’t control there because I find open diffs steer better in the snow & ice.

I’ve had an Fj40 for 29 years now. In ‘92 I rebuilt the rear tub with 1/8” steel steel. The relevance being, it now weighs 2000lbs in the front and 2500 lbs rear. It’ll go almost anywhere with both diffs open. Most places it’ll pass other 4x4s in 2wd. On snow and ice it steers well (at reasonable speeds) so long as I’m delicate on the throttle. Once both front wheels are spinning, turning steering is less productive. With an open front diff, one wheel isn’t spinning, it’s the wheel with the best grip and thereby I’ve got something to steer with.

My first choice would be LSD in the rear, and open in the front, If you’ll be doing more serious wheeling, locker in the rear and selectable in the front,

that said, I’ve not got your rig, nor do I know where you plan to drive. So do what makes sense for your situation.

 

[turbodiesel]

Your rigs weight distribution is likely different than mine. In mine, I’d be most concerned about rear traction. It’s got 6000 lbs over the rear axle. Experience has shown that both rear wheels will stay on the ground and front wheels will be airborne quickly. Thus making open diffs and LSD less useful. I’d not want a locker that I can’t control there because I find open diffs steer better in the snow & ice.

My first choice would be LSD in the rear, and open in the front, If you’ll be doing more serious wheeling, locker in the rear and selectable in the front,

that said, I’ve not got your rig, nor do I know where you plan to drive. So do what makes sense for your situation.

Thanks for the thoughts. I've concluded to go with Open front / LSD in rear. Not doing any serious wheeling, mostly 4wd for mud/snow/ice in the Sierras on the west coast USA.

 

[Bikersmurf]

Love the new roof btw. If I could get my hands on one I’d like to modify the front edge do it was straight and then mount it atop my type three.

While I’m in this fantasy world I’d punch a smaller hole to access it through and have a bed permanently set up there... and then tour the continent kith my kids before they are to old to be seen with their Parrents.