I lost a few pictures it seems, but here is some info from when I did my Camburg UCA swap. Yes, its a bit tight.
Points #2 and #5 pertain the most.
---- SNIP ----
The Carnage for the Camburg UCA
View attachment 295418
Did this last night. Few tips.
One, metric fasteners, not standard as said before.
Two, you don't have to take your coil over out or sway bar, BUT if you want to get the LCA to max droop to make it easier to use the BJ press, then sure. Removing the tie rod end, coilover and swaybar would give you great angles. Just be carefull to watch the rubber brake line as that will be the only thing holding the spindle from falling over. Don't want to brake that. That aleviate that you can remove the U bracket clamps that hold the lines in place, gives a bit more slack and takes stress off the rubber hose and bent lines.
Three, the spring clip My new UCAs came with two nice beefy snap rings. I actually bought replacement springclips incase I broke them during the uninstall, but I had no need. I put the snap rings in.
Four, drivers side bolt is a bit tough. Getting the UCA bolt out is a bit tough with the three brake lines running to the rear of the truck there. 10mm bolt that you can get with a deep and a 1/4 flex rachet, takes it off, gives you a bit of space to slide the bolt out and helps getting it back in.
Five, when using the BJ press to get the old out, depending on your angle and what you have taken out, if you don't have a spare set of hands it could be tricky. I just took some bailing wire, wrapped it around the shock body (bottom bolt still in) and then wrapped it to the C side of the clamp. That way the spindle and BJ press would stay where I wanted and I could use my 22mm wrench to move the press. When I got it down tight enugh, I switched to my 3 ft Snap On 1/2 ratchet.
View attachment 295419