HELP! Ball joint on a 1st gen Tundra

TexasTundra

Observer
2 days in and the frustration is building.

I've removed the ball joint from the UCAs (PITA but done) and now I'm trying to get the ball joint off of the spindle. I got two different ball joint removal kits from Autozone (the C-shaped vice kind). My problem is I can't get the clamp to fit in the wheel well. I don't want to have to take the spindle off. What tool have you guys used who didn't take it all off?

Thanks!
 

toyotech

Expedition Leader
Lucky for you i take photos of everything I work on. Anyways. I used this tool with an air hammer at the spindle right where the BJ at. Put pressure on the joint with tool in photo than hit it with air hammer. Watch it slowly drop. Keep adjusting the pressure till its out. It sucks

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1451165899.027236.jpg


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TexasTundra

Observer
Also, did you disconnect your steering arms to get the spindle to drop that far? Looks like you have a ton of room above your spindle to work with.
 

WillBeck

Adventurer
Make sure the snap ring is removed. I used a snap-on BJ puller, but had to cit the shaft of the BJ off to get everything on right. It was a tremendous PITA, but it will come out. Soak it with PB Blaster or WB-40,a nd make sure to use anti-seize when you put the slug in.
 

toyotech

Expedition Leader
So you were hitting the ball joint itself with the air hammer?

The very top of the spindle is the flat spot that wraps around the ball joint. You hit the spindle so it helps vibrate the rusted bj loose while there is pressure from the bj tool.

Didn't remove the steering. Once the bj is separated from the UCA. The spindle swings out. There is room but not a lot.


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toyotech

Expedition Leader
The 3 inch lift pushes the lower control arm further down. If you need to swing the LCA further down. Just remove the lower strut bolt and loosen the LCA at the adjuster till you can swing it down more. Watch the axle tho


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wrenchMonkey_

Adventurer
I lost a few pictures it seems, but here is some info from when I did my Camburg UCA swap. Yes, its a bit tight.
Points #2 and #5 pertain the most.

---- SNIP ----

The Carnage for the Camburg UCA
View attachment 295418
Did this last night. Few tips.

One, metric fasteners, not standard as said before.

Two, you don't have to take your coil over out or sway bar, BUT if you want to get the LCA to max droop to make it easier to use the BJ press, then sure. Removing the tie rod end, coilover and swaybar would give you great angles. Just be carefull to watch the rubber brake line as that will be the only thing holding the spindle from falling over. Don't want to brake that. That aleviate that you can remove the U bracket clamps that hold the lines in place, gives a bit more slack and takes stress off the rubber hose and bent lines.

Three, the spring clip My new UCAs came with two nice beefy snap rings. I actually bought replacement springclips incase I broke them during the uninstall, but I had no need. I put the snap rings in.

Four, drivers side bolt is a bit tough. Getting the UCA bolt out is a bit tough with the three brake lines running to the rear of the truck there. 10mm bolt that you can get with a deep and a 1/4 flex rachet, takes it off, gives you a bit of space to slide the bolt out and helps getting it back in.

Five, when using the BJ press to get the old out, depending on your angle and what you have taken out, if you don't have a spare set of hands it could be tricky. I just took some bailing wire, wrapped it around the shock body (bottom bolt still in) and then wrapped it to the C side of the clamp. That way the spindle and BJ press would stay where I wanted and I could use my 22mm wrench to move the press. When I got it down tight enugh, I switched to my 3 ft Snap On 1/2 ratchet.

View attachment 295419
 

MandAtaco

Observer
When I've done them before (several), I used a big c-clamp ball joint press. I've also cut the top of the ball joint off even with the top of the knuckle so I'm not pressing against that stud moving around.

Good luck, there a pain in the rear for sure! Honestly the time you spend trying to press it out on the truck, you could pull the knuckle and throw it in a press.
 

TexasTundra

Observer
Thank you guys for the help. Got it finished up and aligned.

I ended up using the same tool Toytec recommended to push it out, and then used a c-clamp to push the new one in. Not too bad once you have the right tools. I did the second side in about 20 mins total once I knew what I was doing.

image.jpg
 

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