Help me plan my van build

nely

Adventurer
Glad to hear your wifes ok. Bummer about the 4runner but vehicles are replaceable.
Congrats on the d60 find. I found a d50 then decided itd cost too much to bring it up to snuff and found a complete d60 for $400. It can be done on the unexpensive with finding the deals.

Does it come with the sway bar brackets and lower shock mounts? Those are expensive from the dealer if you gotta source them. I was looking at $600+ for all the bits I needed for the d50. And thats with a 50% discount from my friend that works in the parts dept at a ford dealer

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sixstringsteve

Explorer
The good: I got the axle, and I got a decent deal on it.

The bad: it didn't come with sway bar mounts, drag link, or ubolt plates. I'll scrounge the local pick apart for those, but at least I have the right axle. It's off an '02 F350.

Ok, the next question is, how do i get it out of the back of my pickup? When we loaded it, it was the same height as my truck, so we just slid it in. Now that I'm home, I'm stumped as to how to get it out. I never realized how HEAVY d60's were.
 
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nely

Adventurer
Hahaha, get your friends to come over. Itll take 3 or 4 to move it safely.

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ujoint

Supporting Sponsor
Glad you got it! Looked like a nice piece. ---- Get a couple friends for sure! An easy way to move them is to put a long piece of pipe through the "C" or end forging. Makes it easier to grab.
 

sixstringsteve

Explorer
good suggestion, thanks, we'll try that. ANd thanks for all your help Chris, I appreciate it. It turns out that picture wasn't the actual axle I got, but I'm 99% sure I got a d60. I trust the guy I got it from, he knows his stuff, and he pulled it. Which codes do I check? Are they the bar codes on the axle?
 
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ExpoMike

Well-known member
If the Ford D60 is like the GM D60, it's about 500 lbs. Heck, the axle tubes are like 1/2" thick!
 

sixstringsteve

Explorer
i know. I thought about just shoving it off my truck bed (not really), and figured it couldn't do that much damage :costumed-smiley-007
 

nely

Adventurer
Theres a 3 digit code on the webbin of the housing. I believe the dana 50 is a 2xx number and the dana is 3xx. Ill try to figire it out. I know the info is on my shop computer.

Aparently the dana 50 has a 1 1/8 pinion nut and a dana 60 has 1 5/16

Yes the drag link is needed. A good moog replacement will do

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RocKrawler

Supporting Sponsor
Theres a 3 digit code on the webbin of the housing. I believe the dana 50 is a 2xx number and the dana is 3xx. Ill try to figire it out. I know the info is on my shop computer.

Every Dana axle has a bill of material (BOM) number, its a 7 or 8 digit number that always starts with a SIX. The number will be on the diff tag, and also stamped into the forward facing area of the axle tube next to the diff on the front axle, rearward in rear dana axles.

Once you find the BOM, number, enter it here: http://www2.dana.com/expertforms/deabill.aspx and it will tell you what you have, original gear ratio, and replacement part numbers for everything inside. IFS applications just use a tag on the center; for example, entering the BOM# 610235-6 tells you the diff is a:

JEEP Model 30 FRONT 1985 - 1987.5 IFS - EAGLE - NON-DISCONNECT - CV

Bill of Material 610235-1
Diff. Type STD
Ratio 2.35
Ring and Pinion Kit 700128-7
Differential Assy Kit 706819X
Differential Case Kit 700130
Diff Inner Parts Kit 706820X
Right Hand Shaft Assembly 620515
Left Hand Shaft Assembly 620842

Research your diff, enter the BOM and enjoy...
 

sixstringsteve

Explorer
hm... I have the option to trade my d60 with 3.73s for one with 4.3s. i'm going to be getting a 7.3L diesel, so low RPM is key. I don't want to be geared too low on the freeway. I'll have 35s minumum, but I'll most likely have 37s. 40s would be even cooler, but I don't think I could cram them in there.

My question is, what gear ratio do you think will be best? The diesels will have plenty of torque to turn 35s with the stock gears, so I'm not sure which will be best. I was thinking 4.10s would be best. any thoughts?
 

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