I have a Ram 3500 with a Bundutec Flatbed Camper that weighs just over 2000 pounds. I have consistently run Cooper AT3's that are 10 ply with a load rating of 3640 pounds. They last a long time (50k plus) and arent noisy as they wear like BF Goodrich's. I have upgraded the shocks and added a leaf but thats the only changes I've made. On highways, I typically run 55 front and 75 rear and on trails drop that to 30 front and 40-50 rear.
Help me understand suspension and tires benfits on F350 w 2000lbs truck camper
- Thread starter GetOutThere!
- Start date
rruff
Explorer
Pickups are very weight biased to the front. It will vary depending on your setup, but I wouldn't expect the addition of a "light" load to 1 ton, with a CG in front of the rear axle, to change that to a rearward bias.
The recommended tire pressures from Ram on the door sticker is 60 front, 80 rear. Empty, I might agree but running the rear tire pressure the same as the front when the camper is on and loaded creates a pretty rough ride. I've experimented with a lot of different front/rear tire pressure combos and the one I run produces the best ride.
rruff
Explorer
You've tried running them both at 55, and it rides better with the rear at 75?
If the truck came with those tires, then the door sticker must be at max load. My sticker says 30f and 33r with 255/70r18. When empty I can put 10psi less in the rear, and fronts still squish more... as you'd expect. Less pressure rides better. The 325/65r18s I have now aren't supposed to be <35 psi for some reason, but they handled fine with 25 in the back when unloaded.
If the truck came with those tires, then the door sticker must be at max load. My sticker says 30f and 33r with 255/70r18. When empty I can put 10psi less in the rear, and fronts still squish more... as you'd expect. Less pressure rides better. The 325/65r18s I have now aren't supposed to be <35 psi for some reason, but they handled fine with 25 in the back when unloaded.
The tires are Cooper AT3's in stock size and truck is a 2015 Ram Hemi. Sticker simply says recommended pressure - 60 front 80 rear cold. Its a 10 ply tire with stiff sidewalls. Anything below 65 in the rear on the highway is awful. I suspect your Tundra is lighter by a bit.
David_h
Member
My local dump (transfer station) has a scale. I can drive over it slowly and notice the readout for front axle, total weight; and rear axle. It is free if you don't need a weight certificate, although sometimes I ask them to be polite.
Sparse Gray Hackle
Geezer
In Oregon, you can just pull on to the scales at a closed weigh station, you can see the weight on the display. Do front axle, both, then rear axle.
TexasSixSeven
Observer
As other have suggested first thing I’d do is air down. It’ll help, but probably not to the level you’d hope. However it’s free and easy. A larger tire with more rubber than rim will also help. Personally I’d look at 305/75-18. It’s a large 35 whereas a 285/75/18 is a small 18. Realistically there’s 3/4-1” difference in the tires, and 305s should fit just fine with your truck. That would be where I’d start at. You’ll notice a solid improvement, although there’s still plenty of room to go depending on your wallet.
TexasSixSeven
Observer
If you’d like a pillow like ride the suspension upgrades will be necessary. Personally I run Carli 2.5” springs up front with air bags in the rear. I’ve got Fox 2.0s right now, and the ride is excellent. However I’ll be switching to Fox 2.5s this weekend or next depending on how much time I have. I’m upgrading more due to the weight of my rig than not being satisfied with its performance. It’s in a 2022 F-250. I’ve got a 2020 Tundra that I drive daily. Both trucks see quite a bit of time on crappy roads. I can drive more comfortably and faster in the F-250 the same roads with the Tundra.
rruff
Explorer
I think you mean 305/70r18... couldn't find any 75s. They are both nominally 34.8", but since 35s are typically 34.6", they are taller.
There is one 305/70r18 that is quite large though, the Nitto Dura Grappler which is 35.28" and 12.8" wide on a 9" rim.
rruff
Explorer
Don't know, but they aren't hard to remove. The silly warning light is on all the time, but at least it doesn't beep on mine.
I have a very cheap system with valve caps that serve as pressure and temp sensors, and it's quite accurate (at least for pressure), doesn't leak, and works the way it should. It sounds an alarm only when the pressure drops below a threshold (I think -25%?) from when you started your truck. You do need to look at the gauge at least once when you start though, to make sure pressures look ok. I've ruined a couple rims and tires in the past when I didn't notice a flat in time when offroad, so I like having this.
Buddha.
Finally in expo white.
I reprogrammed the stock system on mine to come on at 30 or something. I suppose this wouldn’t work well if I was already aired down for off road.
TexasSixSeven
Observer
My 17 F350 had TPMS, and the 24’ I recently test drove had TPMS
Kingsize24
Well-known member
Are you sure it's TPMS vs TPIS?
TPIS is information only, TPMS is monitoring and has alerts that cannot be turned off when under recommended pressures.
The TPIS doesn't care, it gives you the same information, just without the alerts and dash lights.