HELP, my poor Granby!

[viking69]

Took my beloved 2002 Granby off to repaint the floor pack and the cab - over bed. The grey paint on the floor pack was starting to get fairly thin so have been sanding it down and after some research am going to coat the entire floor pack with the Duplicolor Bed Armor roll on bed liner. Interestingly Duplicolor specifies this product can be used on wood but their regular truck bed coating does not specify application. So here is my issue, I noticed some wrinkles in the over cab coating along the edges of the aluminum strip. I scraped these wrinkles and sanded the entire over cab board to prep for the coating. In the front driver side corner there was definitely some light fraying of the wood. As I sanded a little bit it really started to come up. When I started getting into the plywood it was completely rotten along a few internal portions of the plywood. Came out dry, almost like foam. So, I need to get the old girl back together. I would say 95% of the plywood is still rock solid. I am thinking I will cut this corner out to good wood, splice in a new piece of 3/4" birch, use liquid nails along all the interface between the new and the old plywood, then lay a mat of fiberglass across the top of the repair from the inside. I realize the best way is likely to replace the whole board, but seeing as this is just a small piece in the corner I feel I can make it solid (between a tight fit, liquid nails, and the fiberglass). From the bottom, I will sand the interface smooth then the bed armor will cover it all up. With the texture the repair will not even show.

Any recommendations or examples of a similar splicing or full repair effort would really be appreciated. I also wanted to post in the FWC forum at WTW but do not have permission to post there even though I have a login?

I sanded back from the damaged corner



here is a photo of the bad corner.

 

[bill harr]

For the amount of work you are going to do cutting, sanding, fiber glass and painting. I would just change out the whole board, it might be less work and cheaper. You will change it later later when your repair fails.

Bill

 

[JHa6av8r]

For the amount of work you are going to do cutting, sanding, fiber glass and painting. I would just change out the whole board, it might be less work and cheaper. You will change it later later when your repair fails.

Bill

I'd have to agree with Bill. It's piece of wood.

 

[viking69]

Thanks guys, anyone have instructions on the best way to approach this. I am pulling the trim for a full replacement, just wondering if there are any tricks I should be aware of. Ie what to do with the wood blocks inside the aluminum frame on the inside?

 

[Arclight]

Thanks guys, anyone have instructions on the best way to approach this. I am pulling the trim for a full replacement, just wondering if there are any tricks I should be aware of. Ie what to do with the wood blocks inside the aluminum frame on the inside?

You might want to purchase a sheet of marine-grade plywood for this job. It's about 3X as expensive as regular construction ply, but it holds up to moisture much better.

Arclight

 

[viking69]

Well,

I have been busy this afternoon.

Cut out all of the plywood, removed all screws from the exterior aluminum trim



Not sure how to get the new plywood in with these boards in place. They are set in the aluminum frame, and the new plywood needs to seat below these boards.



Here is half of the board that I will use for a template.



The edges were not treated originally, Any moisture would be drawn up by this old plywood like a sponge.

 

[viking69]

If anyone else has shoe horned a new board in place I would be thrilled to hear recommendations! Will definitely be either using marine grade ply or 9 ply birch (have used this in new boat floors before). Plan on getting new plywood tomorrow and cutting the replacement board. Will probably use a few coats of marine paint. Will add some new pictures tomorrow. Going to slather the whole operation and every seam in 3m 5200

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

IF I see things in the photo correctly, it looks to me that you could take off the aluminum angle that wraps around the bottom of the bed area, then insert the new wood from the bottom. You might find it easiest to rent a lift similar to what dry wall installers use to lift sheets up for a ceiling install. Otherwise have lots of friends present when you lift the new wood in. Edit: I just went out and looked at my camper. It appears that the rub strip needs to be removed from the nose, then the screws under that, plus the angle aluminum that supports it at the front wall.

I suspect that you're already going to coat the new wood in epoxy, with particular attention to the edge. A good bedding compound is probably in order as well. I would ask the good folks at FWC what they use. Maybe seal the screws, too. Pre drill them, squirt in some goop, then put the screws in place.

 

[viking69]

I don't think this strip can be removed, I think it is connected back into the frame? Otherwise removing it would be great! Anyone have experience with this?

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

I sent you a PM with a couple of thoughts. Another idea is to check out some of the build threads like Ski3pin on WTW to see if there are any photos that would give a hint on how to get it done. He has images of the frame build on to completion in his thread.

Build Threads

 

[bill harr]

I remember one on WTW will do a search and post if I find it.


EDIT: found one post here. BLM said he did change his you might PM him on WTW. Marty from ATC said he would help or walk the poster through what needed to be done. You might give him a call.

 

[viking69]

Thanks Bill,

Scoured the other threads on WTW. Took your advice and called ATC. Marty was tremendously helpful. Told him where I am at and he gave me some great advice. I have the new bed board cut and the first layer of paint is on! Marty said that I should get the board cut about an 1/8" shorter than the original. Then take the board to the inside of the camper, seat it to one side, under one frame side board, use some prybars and a rubber mallet on another board to pound the new bed board down until it pops in under the opposite frame side board. He also said to bevel the edge that will be pounded at least 1/8" to help get it past the frame board.

So while I wait for paint to dry I am cutting off all the staples that stick into the channel with my dremmel. I'll add some photos tonight. Was pretty concerned about this yesterday but just dove in and looking forward to getting it back together.

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Sean, I am glad that things are coming together. Please do document your repair, and post it here. Steve

 

[LuckyDan]

photos please! As a service to those about to embark on the same path as you. Like myself for example, though mine is older it is not as De-laminated in one spot as yours but a little here and there all over.

 

[bill harr]

Big thumbs up to Marty. He is a true first class person. At the WTW Meadow Lake Rally he looked at my camper and said nice work. Best complement I have received as it came from Marty.