Help Needed. Cab is off. What should be done to booletproof the engine 100% ?

[szooter]

Due to the excesive rust on the underfloor of my van I have made decision to pull the cab off.
It is done laready and since I have good acces to the engine now I would like to ask what should be done now to buletproof the engine 100% ?

I have already full 6.0 treatment made by Ujoint. This is the Ujoint description of what was done ''We remove everything above the heads, clean the intake & turbo too. Install an EGT gauge as well as a Scangauge to monitor the oil and coolant temp as well as the transmission. Final piece of the puzzle is the custom tune that shuts down the EGR electronically''

This is the list of new parts already Installed:
Engine harness
Belt Tensioner
Idler Pulley
Engine Belt
Coolant Bottle
Radiator
Oil Drain Plug
New turbo
turbo outlet hose to intercooler
clamps for turbo hose
fuel line bolts to head
intake gaskets
fuel filters
coolant
updated fuel regulator spring
oil cooler


I was thinking that to be 100% buletproof I should do now:
1. ARP headstuds kit - something like this http://www.bulletproofdiesel.com/He...t_Ford_6_0L_p/head gasket kit - ford 6.0l.htm
2. replace the injectors (van is 2006 with 180,000 miage)


What would you gents advise, anything I am missing ?
Whre would you buy the headstuds kit and the injectors ?

few pics of my van with the cab off

 

[tgreening]

Rebuild the heads. They're coming off anyway and they've got 180k on them.

Egr delete. It'll never be easier than now.

 

[IdaSHO]

Yeah this is no time to come up short.

Do it all.

 

[ujoint]

Yes. Rebuild heads, head studs & gaskets, injectors, glow plugs, dummy plugs, stand pipe. EGR delete is already done.

 

[thethePete]

Everything above. Make sure you have the blue spring in your fuel pressure regulator, rebuild or replace your injectors. Go OEM or Uptime for the injectors if you replace. Update your entire HPOP system, standpipes, dummy plugs, injector orings, STC fitting, the works. BPD makes great upgrade stuff, their waterpump and oil towers are great. How much do you want to spend? Their hotter FICMs are quite nice too. Get good batteries when you throw everything together, and dump a few litres of oil down the filter housing before you try to fire it, it'll help with initial start-up.

SCT makes a decent tuner if you wanna go a little hotter than what ujoint has given you. Their 60hp tow tune is quite lovely. You're most of the way there now, but as others have stated, now isn't the time to skimp out on anything.

 

[Bikersmurf]

Or... Drop in a low mileage 7.3 and call it a day...



Sounds like you've got it covered.

 

[IdaSHO]

"low mileage 7.3"

And where would I find one of those? :Wow1:

Seems to be pretty slim pickin's any more, finding a 7.3 with less than 200K that isn't listed for double or triple what its worth!

 

[Bikersmurf]

Mine, with about 200k miles, came with a rig around it for less than $1000 USD.

 

[Stumpalump]

http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/engine/1206tr-6-0-power-stroke-bulletproofing-tactics/

 

[IdaSHO]

Mine, with about 200k miles, came with a rig around it for less than $1000 USD.

Exactly my point.

200k isn't low mileage, by any stretch.

 

[OffGridCamper]

I'm subbed to this guy, been watching his video's for several years.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmbndDDR0NI

 

[stormlover]

http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/engine/1206tr-6-0-power-stroke-bulletproofing-tactics/

Beside being a blatant advertisement for Bulletproof Diesel that article is a good overview of the issues. What it fails to mention is that the problem is the Ford Gold coolant. A coolant that Ford puts in all their vehicles, contains silicates, and was never designed for the torture a diesel dishes out.

Install a coolant filter and replace the crap Ford Gold with an ELC coolant and problem solved. The OEM oil cooler is more than adequate for cooling the oil. Plus, it's tricky to find a place for the air to oil cooler on a van when most of us have big aftermarket bumpers. The easiest solution is to give up your winch. A tradeoff for sure.

That said, BPD makes great products. USA designed and built. The water pump is a work of art. But they charge big money for the upgraded OEM parts. I'd source those elsewhere.

 

[stormlover]

OP, here's a link dump for ya.

Good price on ARP headstuds. http://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/arp/250-4202.htm

Go OEM on the injectors unless you want to upgrade to bigger nozzles:
https://6.0injectors.com/product/oem-ford-6-0-l-powerstroke-injector-single/
http://parts.autonationfordwhitebea...rt_name=fuel-injector?search_str=4C3Z9E527BRM

Consider replacing the OEM radiator with the plastic side tanks with an all aluminum one: https://shop.performanceradiator.co...ath=1_15098_16055_16060_16062&product_id=5296

Another good preventative mod while you've got the cooling system out is replace your brake vacuum pump. It will eventually fail leading to that wonderful no brake feeling:Wow1:
AC2Z-2A451-A http://parts.autonationfordwhitebearlake.com/oe-ford/ac2z2a451a

 

[szooter]

Many Thanks Gents !

All the replies are very informative.
I am no mechanic and slowly learning about this engine.

Can you guys put some more light for me what do you mean by ''rebuilding the heads'' ?Is there any good manual for rebuilding the heads on 6.0 powerstroke ?

I know this question would be very basic in States but here in Europe those engines are very rare and any info I can pass on to my mechanic can be very helpful.

Do you think is it a good time to change the cooling fan clutch as well ?

What about the alternator any recommendations for a stronger alternator ? (I will run in the future additional two batteries for camping use 150 ah together. There will be Warn 16.5 winch installed as well)
Is it very difficult to change the alternator in the later stage when the cab is on ?

 

[thethePete]

Just send them to a machine shop. They are usually cracked but can be repaired. Just get them to clean them, and flux them to check for cracks. BPD makes a repair kit if they are cracked.

There's an adaptor to go from the electronic clutch fan to a mechanical 7.3 fan, which is good piece of mind, though the e-clutch works well it is known for failure.

You should have 2 batteries in the truck from the factory. It needs all of that to crank the engine. There should be two alternator mounts, if you don't have 2 already on the engine you can add the second quite easily. It's not too bad to change the alternator after. Technically there is no official cab-off proceedure for the 6.0, so most repairs are managible with the cab on. The factory alternators are quite high-output, so you shouldn't have any worries there. Also, if you don't have the dual alternator set up already, you could wire your second alternator to run completely isolated and use it for your house power system.