Help, please, with Expeditions West Tacoma drive cycle/sensor ready issue

[mhiscox]

Well, the ex-Expeditions West/Trail Monkey Tacoma made it safely into my possession, but I can't get it through emissions testing. It didn't fail; it can't be tested because two of the sensors aren't reporting. Hooking up the Wrangler's Scangauge verified the "Not Ready" condition.

As explained to me, the sensor issue sometimes happens when the battery's been disconected for a while and the fix is to drive around a bunch of miles and go through many on-off cycles and do a mix of stop-and-go and high-speed driving. Then after some variable period, the sensors will wake back up and all will be well.

But here's the problem . . . the truck's been driven all over the place lately, by Dave Druck to KOFA and then a thousand miles up here and I've been using it every day. So there's been plenty going on that should have gotten the sensors up and reporting.

The only other piece of remotely useful diagnostic information is that Dave had the Check Engine Light come on, bought a code reader in Mt. Shasta City and cleared the code (an evap canister error). About a thousand miles on the truck since then.

So . . . anyone have any insights or suggestions beyond just continuing to drive around for an indefinite period hoping the sensors come back to life? Or is it time to give up and take it to the dealership?

Thanks for any help,

Mike

 

[bloc]

In case clearing the evap code triggered something wonky inside the ECU, has the power to the ECU been shut off since then to try and reset those changes?

I know you risk having it that much longer before the readiness checks are all cleared.. but something to keep in mind.

 

[Mr. Leary]

Just replace the O2 sensor or the starter, cures all ails! :victory:

On a more serious note...

Shooting in the dark here... are Oregon emissions testing the same as Cailfornia?

I know certain things are done to California cars to meet emissions requirements that are not done elsewhere.

Good luck... wish I could be of more help.

 

[BIGdaddy]

what a junker.

(please bring back to california and I'll scrap it for you.)

 

[Mr. Leary]

what a junker.

(please bring back to california and I'll scrap it for you.)

:coffeedrink:

Texas has much more leanient guidelines and better facilities for disposal of such things. The safer bet would be to let the professional Texan handle it from here. :ylsmoke:

 

[rdgt4r]

California is very stringent on emissions testing, most counties have biannual smog checks required to register your vehicle. But after the late 90's most all the car company's followed the CARB way with two cats etc, etc. If it passes here no reason for it not to pass in oregon.

 

[RusM]

:coffeedrink:

Texas has much more leanient guidelines and better facilities for disposal of such things. The safer bet would be to let the professional Texan handle it from here. :ylsmoke:

The obviously better choice would be to contract with a responsible individual in an area where they do no emissions testing to store the vehicle. A guy like me, hey wait...I'm a guy like me! :coffeedrink::victory:

 

[mhiscox]

What a junker. Please bring back to California and I'll scrap it for you.

Texas has much more lenient guidelines and better facilities for disposal of such things. The safer bet would be to let the professional Texan handle it from here.

The obviously better choice would be to contract with a responsible individual in an area where they do no emissions testing to store the vehicle. A guy like me, hey wait...I'm a guy like me!

You guys are . . . sniffle . . . true friends, and it's a real comfort to know that there are Expo members willing to step in and take this old truck off my hands. In fact, I'll bet I sleep better tonight knowing that it's hardly important trying to license the truck for my own use. :sombrero:

Still, given that Dave went to all the trouble to drive the truck up here, I suppose I really ought to make the effort, so I'll still appreciate any additional advice people happen to have.

 

[Larry]

I work for an automotive manufacturer and dealt with plenty of brand new large commercial trucks over the years not meeting CARB testing once they arrive in CA but this “unready” thing is a new one on me.

Could it be the vehicle was cold and still in open loop at the time they tested it?

So, all the smog cops in OR could say is it could be related to a disconnected battery? That sounds odd to me. You might want to check around at www.yotatech.com , www.tacomaterritory.com or swing by a Toyota dealer to see what they have to say.

Good luck…whatever it is, I am sure it is something simple.

 

[CA-RJ]

Do you happen to know what code the Evap CEL gave?

 

[BIGdaddy]

You guys are . . . sniffle . . . true friends, and it's a real comfort to know that there are Expo members willing to step in and take this old truck off my hands. In fact, I'll bet I sleep better tonight knowing that it's hardly important trying to license the truck for my own use. :sombrero:

Still, given that Dave went to all the trouble to drive the truck up here, I suppose I really ought to make the effort, so I'll still appreciate any additional advice people happen to have.

Yeah, I guessss....since dave DID drive it all the way....

Maybe, MAYBE you should give it some more thought.

 

[bat]

Once the check engine light comes on and you clear the code the car must go through a drive cycle.The dealer cannot smog with the ecu not in readiness mode but the dealer may be able to do a drive cycle to clear it and then smog it do not keep trying to reset by taking the battery off. If you can find soomeone with the same year truck pull his ecu and run it yours for smog and give it back.

 

[corax]

Check with a Toyota dealer to see if they can give you a copy of drive cycle you need to do in order to set the system readiness flags.

Here's a generic drive cycle you can try

Generic OBD II "Drive Cycle"
Most OBD II ("On-Board Diagnostics II") diagnostic monitors will run at some time during normal operation of the vehicle.
However, to satisy all of the different Trip enable criteria and run all of the OBD II diagnostic monitors, the vehicle must be driven under a variety of conditions. The following drive cycle will (theoretically) allow all monitors to run on (??) vehicle. (Note: Drive cycle specifics vary by vehicle!)
1.Ensure that the fuel tank is between 1/4 and 3/4 full.
2.Start cold (below 86°F /30°C) and warm up until engine coolant temperature is at least 160° F (typically requires at least one minute; up to 3 minutes).
3.Accelerate to 40-55 MPH at 25% throttle and maintain speed for five minutes.
4.Decelerate without using the brake (coast down) to 20 MPH or less, then stop the vehicle. Allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds, turn the key off, and wait one minute.
5.Restart and accelerate to 40-55 MPH at 25% throttle and maintain speed for two minutes.
6.Decelerate with using the brake [or the clutch!] by coasting down to 20 MPH or less, then stop the vehicle. Allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds, turn the key off, and wait one minute.
General Motors (specific) OBD II Drive Cycle
Performing a GM OBDII Driving cycle:


1.Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 122°F (50°C) and within 11°F (6°C) of the ambient air temperature at startup.
Do not leave the key in prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

2.Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire, and - if closed loop is achieved- Fuel Trim.

3.Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 55mph (88km/hr) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.

4.Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

5.Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 20 mph (32km/hr). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

6.Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 55-60mph (88-96 km/hr). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.

7.Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.

8.Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

 

[juicebox]

Does the Tacoma have a ScanGaugeII? I figure with all the farkle it would but maybe not.

The SGII would help alot to make sure you are doing any sort of drive cycle like the one mentioned above, I am not sure though... I didn't know what a drive cycle was until I read this thread... :smiley_drive:

 

[mhiscox]

Does the Tacoma have a ScanGaugeII? I figure with all the farkle it would but maybe not.

The SGII would help alot to make sure you are doing any sort of drive cycle like the one mentioned above, I am not sure though... I didn't know what a drive cycle was until I read this thread... :smiley_drive:

I have a Scangauge II attached, but it's principal role right now is telling me I have a "NOT READY" condition.