Help with 1997 Discovery Dual Battery Setup

[Sean VHA #60013]

I want to do a Dual Battery install on my 1997 Land Rover Discovery, and I need help figuring out how to pull it off. :safari-rig:



I want to run an auxiliary battery that will handle the winch, ARB Compressor, lights, radio, cb etc, and use the primary for starting, isolate the batteries, and be able to switch them from inside the cab and jump the primary from the auxiliary.



Before re-inventing the wheel, I thought I would poll forum members for ideas: who has done such a dual battery install on a series 1 disco, and how has it worked out for you? What components did you use, and where did you locate the auxiliary battery? And most of all, please post pics if available
:coffeedrink:

 

[Ray_G]

I ran dual Optimal yellow tops in my last truck. Used the painless wiring waterproof 250 amp current control setup (Part # 40103, http://www.painlesswiring.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=40103)

2nd Battery was mounted in front of the airbox (horn on the box was removed and a piece of plastic blanked it out, my snorkel was coming in from the side anyway).

I didn't take too many pictures so you'll have to bear with me. The solenoid was mounted forward of the battery in the space that holds the headlamp (in the picture you can see one of the wires going down to it). Since it was waterproof or significantly water resistant, I didn't worry about it and never had issues. I used welding cable to connect primary battery to solenoid, secondary battery to solenoid, etc. I then used a Blue Sea Systems fuse to isolate the secondary battery as it traveled a Blue Sea systems aux fuse block that was mounted up on the firewall inside the hood (you can also just see that in that pic as it's on the driver's side). Recommendation here would be to do it the way I have it on my current truck and bring that in the cabin-mine is under the steering wheel in a place of cut out foam. Don't have a pic of it on hand but can get you one.

Controls for the system were mounted in a standard 3 switch holder that mounted in the truck, the only pic I can find has it on the left side of the picture. You can see the LED illuminated. The switch itself was just nestled in there, the LEDs were mounted in a switch blank.


It worked fine, though Optimas generally are finicky. Hope that helps.
r-
Ray

 

[Red90]

Yah, nothing complicated. All RRC and Discos have a second battery tray. Put the battery there. Use a solenoid to disconnect.

 

[Antichrist]

There are a number of different ways to do it, depending on your priorities. There was a review of 6 setups in the winter 2008 issue (I think) of OJ.

 

[mowerman]

My auxilliary battery is also in front of the air box, as above.
If you don't have a snorkel you will have to remove the air intake trumpet to make space, also I made a bracket to move the power steering reservoir backwards to make more room for the battery:-

Mine is connected to the main battery via 35mm (winch type) power cable and is charged via a 150amp relay. The relay trigger is a feed from the alternator so that it only connects once the engine is running and so wont drain both batteries if the truck fails to start.
I also have a battery isolator switch in the line so I can isolate both batteries from each other and then jump start the truck from itself.
For monitoring I bought a cheap battery monitor unit from ebay and fitted a diverter switch so I can choose whether it monitrs the main battery or the auxilliary one.
There are fancy kits you can buy that do all this for you, but my DIY set up has worked very well for me, and was very cheap.
Hope this helps

 

[Sean VHA #60013]

Mine is connected to the main battery via 35mm (winch type) power cable and is charged via a 150amp relay. The relay trigger is a feed from the alternator so that it only connects once the engine is running and so wont drain both batteries if the truck fails to start.
I also have a battery isolator switch in the line so I can isolate both batteries from each other and then jump start the truck from itself.
For monitoring I bought a cheap battery monitor unit from ebay and fitted a diverter switch so I can choose whether it monitrs the main battery or the auxilliary one.
There are fancy kits you can buy that do all this for you, but my DIY set up has worked very well for me, and was very cheap.
Hope this helps

Mowerman, aye, this helps! This sounds like what I want to do. Which 150amp relay did you go with? What battery isolator switch did you use? Also, which battery monitor unit and diverter switch did you use? Do you have a pic of what the monitor and switch look like on the dash?

 

[mowerman]

ref. relay, if you contact any automotive electrical supplier they should be able to supply a 150amp relay off the shelf, mine was (I think) £16, about $25?
The battery monitor is mounted on the dash here -

Please bear in mind that my D1 is right hand drive, so this is the side next to the centre console. The diverter switch is the black switch above it, below the light switches. It is mounted where there was a slight recess in the dash moulding, I think maybe the dash light dimmer switch would fit there if it was installed.
It is a simple diverter switch, the input from each battery goes to the ends, and the output back to the monitor.
The yellow button on the monitor can be pressed to show the read out, or you can configure it to remain on all the time (I dont do this as it would distract when driving)
I bought the monitor from here - sorry its a Brit ebay site but it will give you all the info on it:-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150490811976?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

The battery isolator switch is a faily simple one that is rated for the ampage:-

This is actually my winch one but the batt one is the same

 

[Sean VHA #60013]

Thanks! The visuals help a lot!

 

[jwlester]

I also have a battery isolator switch in the line so I can isolate both batteries from each other and then jump start the truck from itself.

Can you clarify this? I'm missing something. Aren't the batteries already isolated because the relay doesn't throw until the truck is started, right? I'm sure I'm missing something.

Thanks.

 

[t42beal13t]

Great thread. I'll probably be putting in another blue top in the near future.

Mowerman, good idea about the bracket!

 

[mowerman]

Can you clarify this? I'm missing something. Aren't the batteries already isolated because the relay doesn't throw until the truck is started, right? I'm sure I'm missing something.

Thanks.

thats right, the relay keeps the batteries isolated, but if you were jumps starting the truck, as soon as it started the 2 batteries would then be connected directly via the jump leads and the alternator, which may knacker something, so I figured safest way was to fit an isolator switch

 

[jwlester]

Thanks. I'll have to think on that one. Safety first.