Overlandtowater
Well-known member
almost makes me want to take advantage of the financing offers we are seeing now...…..ALMOST....
Hey Vortec Guys! / Sierra pickup / Suburban / Yukon etc - Finally has Index!
- Thread starter rayra
- Start date
Hillbilly Heaven
Explorer
You aren't alone. I think best offers will be after this is over with.
Hillbilly Heaven
Explorer
XJLI
Adventurer
A while ago I noticed my front brakes dragged/pulled weird and it was that one of the slide pins in the caliper was rusted and seized up. They come right out if you pull em (hard), I cleaned it up best i could and put some wheel bearing grease and a couple drops of gear oil to match the consistency (a lot like the swivel ball "one shot" grease in Rovers) of the other side which was good. Brakes are MUCH better now. Like a new truck. I had to do new pads and rotors bc that one side scored the rotor pretty bad and one of the pads was down to metal since it was dragging. I can't remember if it was on the caliper that is original to the truck, or the reman I had to put on a couple years ago.
supermoto65
Member
Yep ... only a little bit of clearance as designed. Like you said ... maybe an inch? When you raise the truck, it raises that as well. The fix I posted is pretty widely used (and is actually a hack and not something a manufacturer specifically targeted to this application) to get back to that clearance while keeping as much of the "jounce" bumpers functionality as possible.
I noticed when I raised mine with the indexed keys that going into a corner at a normal speed ... the truck would take a little longer to "set" into the corner ... this can be a little unsettling if going faster. I didn't get that when at stock height and the addition of the "hack" I posted fixed that issue (as good as it can be with torsion bar suspension on these trucks).
Off-road it may be a different story and you MAY want the little bit of added travel that more clearance gives you ... but it makes a big difference on the road. At least in my experience.
Here is an old post with some info on NEW trucks and what kind of space they had between the control arms and the jounce bumper ..
bumper stops, suspension stops, jounce bumper
I was reading in the posts here about how the trucks have different bumper stop gaps or no gaps as the case may be. I'd like to get to the bottom of this. Can everyone who has noticed this please post their truck (4x4 offroad package or not, suburban, tahoe, pickup 1500...etc.) I have a Tahoe and...
www.gm-trucks.com
And to get really technical ... the proper way to set the ride height though it doesn't apply to lifted trucks.
Torsion Bar Adjustment
The "Z" measurment on my 4 x 4 2002 2500HD CCLB measures about 3" on left side and 4.25" on right side. It has been like that since I bought the truck new. Never thought anything about it. I'm thinking this might have had something to do with the front hub bearings going bad. The factory "Z" heig...
www.gm-trucks.com
Anyway .. not trying to stir the pot. I was only posting what I had learned through my research into the issue in hopes it would help the guy with his question. I don't think it's bad info at all.
We all know the real answer is coilovers anyway ... lol
Kowblansky01
New member
Hey I just wanted to apologize. I think I miss understood your original post about it. It’s not that I wanted To believe the wrong info, its just the only info I could find. Thanks for writing that info up and teaching me about the positive of having a gap there for Off-roading.
Last edited:
Kowblansky01
New member
Appreciate the help!Yep ... only a little bit of clearance as designed. Like you said ... maybe an inch? When you raise the truck, it raises that as well. The fix I posted is pretty widely used (and is actually a hack and not something a manufacturer specifically targeted to this application) to get back to that clearance while keeping as much of the "jounce" bumpers functionality as possible.
I noticed when I raised mine with the indexed keys that going into a corner at a normal speed ... the truck would take a little longer to "set" into the corner ... this can be a little unsettling if going faster. I didn't get that when at stock height and the addition of the "hack" I posted fixed that issue (as good as it can be with torsion bar suspension on these trucks).
Off-road it may be a different story and you MAY want the little bit of added travel that more clearance gives you ... but it makes a big difference on the road. At least in my experience.
Here is an old post with some info on NEW trucks and what kind of space they had between the control arms and the jounce bumper ..
bumper stops, suspension stops, jounce bumper
I was reading in the posts here about how the trucks have different bumper stop gaps or no gaps as the case may be. I'd like to get to the bottom of this. Can everyone who has noticed this please post their truck (4x4 offroad package or not, suburban, tahoe, pickup 1500...etc.) I have a Tahoe and...
And to get really technical ... the proper way to set the ride height though it doesn't apply to lifted trucks.
Torsion Bar Adjustment
The "Z" measurment on my 4 x 4 2002 2500HD CCLB measures about 3" on left side and 4.25" on right side. It has been like that since I bought the truck new. Never thought anything about it. I'm thinking this might have had something to do with the front hub bearings going bad. The factory "Z" heig...
Anyway .. not trying to stir the pot. I was only posting what I had learned through my research into the issue in hopes it would help the guy with his question. I don't think it's bad info at all.
We all know the real answer is coilovers anyway ... lol
Overlandtowater
Well-known member
yeah I would like one of the new broncos depends on the price.....
rayra
Expedition Leader
Messing with some Suburban undercarriage work this afternoon.
Noticed I had some grease splatter in the passenger front wheel tub, day before the front end alignment and forgot about it until today. Forgot to ask or look during the alignment. And that worthy didn't mention anything to me. Jacked things up today to go after the u-joints on the front drive shaft and while it was in the air I wiped the mess up and gave the CV joint bellows a cursory inspection and found no splits or tear. But I need to find the source. The goop looked just like the stuff in the guts of a CV. One of these new ones pulled apart on me during install a few months ago, I had the clamped seal apart and back together and can't recall which side it was on. I suppose it was this one, will have to figure it out.
I'll dig into the images tonight and make a more determined inspection while I still have it in the air, in the morning.
Then it was on to today's project. I've got some play still somewhere in the front end. Still an alarming clunk once in a while and I still can't find a source. But at 146k it's time for some new u-joints already, and bought all four new about a year ago. Given that it took me 20-some years to get around to installing the last set after I bought them (in my C-10), I figured a year was long enough already. Ironically, they're still the very same part / size, 1985 C-10 and 2002 K1500 Suburban. Good old GM, cheap / lazy fastardos.
And unfortunately that means the same molten-plastic-locked U-joint caps. Which you either have to melt out with a torch (FIRE FIRE) or press out with a 20-30ton press. I elected to use the former again. I didn't take as many pics this time, was in a hurry, and I'd documented this process before, ~18mos ago with the C-10.
So I go busy heating them up and knocking things out. But just got the front driveshaft back together before dinner and called off the reassembly until tomorrow.
The only thing different this time was the presence of a clamped on rubber boot on the output shaft that sticks in the transfer case. I didn't have a replacement handy and didn't want to screw with rtying to slide it off or mess with its clamp, so I elected to wrap that boot with a soaking wet towel and orient the yoke so all the torch heat was moving up and away from the boot. I seem to have got away with it.
Anyway, you heat the yoke until the nylon-plastic come boiling out of the weep holes in the yoke armature and then you punch or strike out the caps. A real metal bench and large vise is an asset for this sort of thing. I had neither and scorched my wookworking table a little. But I got it done and carefully clamped and tapped back together.
A couple pics from the C-10 driveshaft work as illustration
Noticed I had some grease splatter in the passenger front wheel tub, day before the front end alignment and forgot about it until today. Forgot to ask or look during the alignment. And that worthy didn't mention anything to me. Jacked things up today to go after the u-joints on the front drive shaft and while it was in the air I wiped the mess up and gave the CV joint bellows a cursory inspection and found no splits or tear. But I need to find the source. The goop looked just like the stuff in the guts of a CV. One of these new ones pulled apart on me during install a few months ago, I had the clamped seal apart and back together and can't recall which side it was on. I suppose it was this one, will have to figure it out.
I'll dig into the images tonight and make a more determined inspection while I still have it in the air, in the morning.
Then it was on to today's project. I've got some play still somewhere in the front end. Still an alarming clunk once in a while and I still can't find a source. But at 146k it's time for some new u-joints already, and bought all four new about a year ago. Given that it took me 20-some years to get around to installing the last set after I bought them (in my C-10), I figured a year was long enough already. Ironically, they're still the very same part / size, 1985 C-10 and 2002 K1500 Suburban. Good old GM, cheap / lazy fastardos.
And unfortunately that means the same molten-plastic-locked U-joint caps. Which you either have to melt out with a torch (FIRE FIRE) or press out with a 20-30ton press. I elected to use the former again. I didn't take as many pics this time, was in a hurry, and I'd documented this process before, ~18mos ago with the C-10.
So I go busy heating them up and knocking things out. But just got the front driveshaft back together before dinner and called off the reassembly until tomorrow.
The only thing different this time was the presence of a clamped on rubber boot on the output shaft that sticks in the transfer case. I didn't have a replacement handy and didn't want to screw with rtying to slide it off or mess with its clamp, so I elected to wrap that boot with a soaking wet towel and orient the yoke so all the torch heat was moving up and away from the boot. I seem to have got away with it.
Anyway, you heat the yoke until the nylon-plastic come boiling out of the weep holes in the yoke armature and then you punch or strike out the caps. A real metal bench and large vise is an asset for this sort of thing. I had neither and scorched my wookworking table a little. But I got it done and carefully clamped and tapped back together.
A couple pics from the C-10 driveshaft work as illustration
Overlandtowater
Well-known member
I'm dreading it on mine
rayra
Expedition Leader
it was Feb 2019 when I changed the CVs and managed to pull one joint apart as I had removed the upper control arm and the same time and I allowed the suspension to droop and pulled the joint apart. Had to dismount the boot to unscrew it and refasten that crimped band best I could. Put about 6k mostly high speed miles on it since then without trouble.
well piss it is the boot I had apart. Originally happened while working on the driver side, I set it aside and used the other new axle to complete the driver side work. Then I pulled that axle apart, fixed the joint and re-assembled it, then used it on the passenger side. So I'll have to clean it up really well and look for damage and then figure on clamping it up tighter
well piss it is the boot I had apart. Originally happened while working on the driver side, I set it aside and used the other new axle to complete the driver side work. Then I pulled that axle apart, fixed the joint and re-assembled it, then used it on the passenger side. So I'll have to clean it up really well and look for damage and then figure on clamping it up tighter
rayra
Expedition Leader
True enough. Flame wrench is necessary.
Don't dread it, it's relatively easy. As Buddha notes, easier than fighting heavy rust.
About to got put the front shaft back in and test drive for some cheeseburgers.
Then it's re-positioning for the rear driveshaft and doing it.
one other thing from that work months ago, a handy cheap tool to have is a plastic plug for the transmission, keep fluid from dribbling out while you have the yoke out.
Don't dread it, it's relatively easy. As Buddha notes, easier than fighting heavy rust.
About to got put the front shaft back in and test drive for some cheeseburgers.
Then it's re-positioning for the rear driveshaft and doing it.
one other thing from that work months ago, a handy cheap tool to have is a plastic plug for the transmission, keep fluid from dribbling out while you have the yoke out.
rayra
Expedition Leader
Got the front shaft back in this morning but with a little trouble. The copper-hued spring clips didn't want to fit within the front axle yoke. I started drawing the clamps down with a short ratchet and felt the resistance, which I would have not have felt with a power tool. Took a look and got an F-clamp on the caps (with a couple smaller washers taped to teh upper clamp jaw so it would press on the cap and not the yoke) and squeezed them tight while I drew the bolts / clamps down enough to see the caps seated. Then I got the grease gun on and got greased. I greased the other u-joint on the bench, as it was fully trapped in the transfer case yoke.
Hillbilly Heaven
Explorer
If those were spicer joints you would have received different thickness lock rings. Each set is a different color.