High Amp weatherproof connection for Truck bed

Amp34

Member
The thick gauge to prevent voltage drop is needed over the distance.

No harm in stepping down, via a dulal-post buss, asymmetric butt connector, ferrule, whatever.

If you just trim strands, be sure to seal the end well against corrosion, even if tinned type wire.

The biggest issue was working out if I’d have to cut too many of the strands. I decided to step down to #6 just before the socket and use a splice kit instead. Other end will also be a #6 wire as it’ll only be a foot or so long. Saves me having to modify the socket to accommodate the sleeve too.

Witts End has some SB50 and SB175 mounting brackets.

Thanks. Went with the one I linked to, but I’ll keep this in mind if that doesn’t work for some reason.
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
I stand by what I said. On the systems we are dealing with the combined length of wire is used for a DC system.........not for a AC system.
For hasty NEC Chapter 9, Table 9 single phase AC voltage drop calculations it's still two line lengths just as DC. For 3Ø you would use 1.732 line lengths.
 
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ebrabaek

Adventurer
I just installed a all weather cigarette lighter plug from Orileys in the truck bed of my 2018 F150.
I used the charge wire from the trailer factory harness.
I then created a plug that I inserted in the bumper, featuring a left and right LED bulb that tricks the vehicle into thinking that there is a trailer behind it and thus sending dc to the plug.
Using a 4-5 amp draw fridge.
I do have an ARE camper on the bed.
Drove 2000 miles on a road trip and the fridge is working great.
I can post a few pictures if you would like.
 

2Jeeps&PatriotX1

Active member
I installed anderson plug in the rear of my f150 and one in the rear of my wife’s grand cherokee. I went with 4gauge due to the distance on my truck.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Alloy

Well-known member
For hasty NEC Chapter 9, Table 9 single phase AC voltage drop calculations it's still two line lengths just as DC. For 3Ø you would use 1.732 line lengths.
I agree but why is it necessary to use it vs. rule of thumb (14ga-15A & 12ga-20A) for 110VAC being installed on a vehicle or trailer.
 

PSea

Active member
I was following.....why not politely state the facts as you did.

I stand by what I said. On the systems we are dealing with the combined length of wire is used for a DC system.........not for a AC system.
I think I just learned something new. So when I'm trying to determine proper wire gauge (DC only) , I need to double the length of the wire run? Ie, if a 15‘ run, I need to use 30‘ when looking at the wire gauge charts?
 

dreadlocks

Well-known member
I think I just learned something new. So when I'm trying to determine proper wire gauge (DC only) , I need to double the length of the wire run? Ie, if a 15‘ run, I need to use 30‘ when looking at the wire gauge charts?

No you need to look at the DC wire gauge chart, AC current goes several orders of magnitude further with less losses than DC over the same wiring, and its at least one order of magnitude greater in just voltage alone.
 

PSea

Active member
Y
if your using DC wiring chart and grounding to chassis, no.. otherwise you use a DC wiring chart/calculator and account for all wiring combined.. both positive and negative.

This is a good reference site: http://circuitwizard.bluesea.com/
Hmmm. So I want to have the flexibility to attach a winch to my rear trailer hitch. It's about a 20' (40' total for both wires) run from battery. Peak amps is 170a. This told me 4/0 gauge. That sounds a lot bigger than most use.

Now if I'm understanding you correctly, I don't need to run one of the wires all the way back to the battery. I could ground it to the frame at tge rear of the truck?

So, if I reduce the total wire run to 23‘ then the calculator suggests 2/0 gauge.

Also noticed it's using a peak amperage of 330a. So I'm wondering if I shouldn't use 170a peak as a variable. Is it overestimating based on my input?
 

dreadlocks

Well-known member
yeah you could use chassis ground, but for that amperage I would suggest redundant ground straps for both engine and battery up front.. big enough to handle that 170A otherwise you could have issues.. I had a ground strap fail on my Westfallia (40 years later just snapped the braided cable), so the starter ground suddenly became the throttle cable.. guess what broke when I tried to start it?

20ft seems like alot, my trailer is not even that long.. If you can route it on the frame rails under it should be a pretty straight shot to the back.. You should use the peak amperage for any fuses, but its average rated needs should be fine for the wiring.. worse case it'll drop a few more volts when firing up but then quickly come back to target if you dont dramatically exceed cables capability.
 

PSea

Active member
I would suggest redundant ground straps for both engine and battery up front.. big enough to handle that 170A otherwise you could have issues
Dang it dreadlocks! Every time you respond my todo list grows! Lol Appreciate the heads up on this.

Ok, peak draw for fusing & average amp rating for wiring. Got it!
 

dreadlocks

Well-known member
what I usually do is a standard braided strap from transmission to subframe, then one going directly from battery down to the starter bolt.. but since your running a winch off frame try to find the shortest and biggest strap you can get.. going to the starter might be bit too far, so mebe engine mount or accessory bracket if they are short and simple.
 

PSea

Active member
Going to update all wiring between alt/battery, battery/chasis & engine/chasis as well as battery posts. Long overdue on my '98 4Run. Just read a solid thread about it on T4R.org.
 

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