Hiker trailer style off-road teardrop

[HyperActive]

Been lurking here and on several other forums researching trailer builds for weeks trying to decide on a model with a dedicated RTT or an off-road style teardrop. After discussing it with my wife, she likes the thought of the teardrop better than the RTT version so we all know that decision was made!

Planning a 5x10 frame with the box only using 5x8 of the rear. The front 2 feet will be dedicated deck for gear storage. The rear section will house the galley.

This one REALLY inspired me and is basically what Im planning to build.


My biggest question as Im gathering materials this week is, I see everyone starting with the frame but my inclination is to start with the body and build the frame to match. Has anyone built in this order or is there a specific reason to build the frame first?

I have a fully setup woodshop and my experience is in furniture and cabinetry so thats probably where my desire to build the body first comes from.

Thanks for any info and looking forward to posting some progress by the weekend.

 

[kzam]

That trailer is pretty similar to my build, but mine has fewer bells and whistles.

I think to answer your question, I would want to know what materials you're planning to use. How thick are your walls going to be and how much work are you planning to do before moving the shell to the trailer frame?

It was initially my plan to build my sides separately and then bolt the nearly finished pieces together and to the frame. It was a great idea in theory but unfortunately, my trailer frame wasn't perfectly flat or perfectly square and I wasn't a skilled enough builder to line everything up perfectly in the real world. The more reinforced and rigid my walls became, the less likely they would be to fit together perfectly.

It sounds like you're a much more talented woodworker than I am so maybe my concerns wouldn't be an issue for you.

 

[HyperActive]

Here are my initial thoughts on construction of the body:

1. Floor will be a bottom layer of 3/4 ply with a skeleton on top made from 2x4's on the sides and 2x2 horizontal runners, insulation panels then topped with a 1/2" sheet of ply
2. Im not 100% on the walls yet but seriously considering using 3/4 ply for the core and skeletonizing it to hold the panels of 3/4 insulation. 1/2" outer sheathing with aluminum skin and 1/4" inner walls. The rear galley bulkhead will be 3/4 birch ply as a base of the inner and galley cabinets.
3. Roof will have pockets cut out in the 3/4 wall structure for the 1x2 roof supports.

Figured I would at least get it to this stage, then run wiring, sheath the roof and then CPE the entire body before mounting to the frame.

 

[kzam]

That sounds like an elegant build. Do you have a target weight in mind? Will you have water tanks for fresh water and gray water?

 

[workingonit71]

frame first, then the superstructure; use steel bracing, gusseted angles, and corners

Been lurking here and on several other forums researching trailer builds for weeks trying to decide on a model with a dedicated RTT or an off-road style teardrop. After discussing it with my wife, she likes the thought of the teardrop better than the RTT version so we all know that decision was made!

Planning a 5x10 frame with the box only using 5x8 of the rear. The front 2 feet will be dedicated deck for gear storage. The rear section will house the galley.

This one REALLY inspired me and is basically what Im planning to build.
View attachment 403924

My biggest question as Im gathering materials this week is, I see everyone starting with the frame but my inclination is to start with the body and build the frame to match. Has anyone built in this order or is there a specific reason to build the frame first?

I have a fully setup woodshop and my experience is in furniture and cabinetry so thats probably where my desire to build the body first comes from.

Thanks for any info and looking forward to posting some progress by the weekend.

• My 4x8 squareback trailer is similar to a Hiker in shape only. I did not have the woodworking skills to stick-build the cabin, nor the desire for metal sheathing, nor for insulation (at the time; now reconsidering insulation).
• Even though you have a shop to build your cabin in, I recommend building it on the rolling frame, instead of installing the superstructure later. I used my rolling frame as a platform for parts and tool storage when not actually working on it, and was able to move it around to make way for other projects during the build. I also built it at two locations, 50 miles apart: a friend's shop, for frame extensions and exterior shell (complete and painted), and one of my garage bays at home (for mechanical, wiring, electrical, and detail work).
• Looking back, I would not have done it that way, as I had to do months of work inside an enclosed box, doors on, which was difficult. But, the exterior had to be completed first, because I was losing the shop space before I had my garage bay cleared, and it was liable to be moved outside into inclement conditions, before I could bring it home. Another reason to build it on the rolling frame is to test the balance while building it. By adding a little weight at a time, even if calculated beforehand, the effects can be evaluated as you go, and changed as needed. Just by lifting or weighing the tongue, you can judge if something works or not, before finalized. Weigh adds up faster than heck, usually more than figured for. Cabinetry, simple doorframing, even a heavy shelf, can throw off carefully calculated designs; ask me how I know!
• I used phenolic-cored, pre-sanded 3/4" plywood, and multiple coats of polyurethane/thinner mix, then 100% poly, then multiple coats of outdoor tractor or silo paint to waterproof and protect the wood, in lieu of CPES and an aluminum skin. And, instead of building a 2x4 support frame for the walls, and using spars for roof support, I relied upon Simpson Strongties steel angles and generic steel corner braces to simply bolt the structure together (all joins and seams were also glued with Loctite Premium Polyurethane adhesive, inside and out. Stainless 1/4" carriage bolts, acorn or nylock nuts, and fender washers were primarily used, when visible. All structural plywood cuts were straight cuts, with only the front sloping roof piece mitered to fit at 45 degrees. While aiming for 1000lbs, travel weight, the use of 3/4" plywood and oak reinforcements inside, and using 1/4" steel in later frame strengthening, my trailer is now over 2000 lbs...weight adds up fast!
• Simple, fast, but heavy construction, tailored to my limited skills. I never intended to camp in very cold environments, but didn't appreciate the "sweating" walls when the A/C is working in high humidity, nor the effect my breath has when inside, under cool/humid conditions. I would add insulation to prevent this, if I were to build it again. But, if I had used a sandwiched 1/2" ply exterior (for rigidity), 1" pink foam (for insulation), and 1/4" ply (interior panels), I could've had insulation and strength, only losing an inch of space per side. I used the cut-out doors with automotive doorseals, instead of a camper door, but if using the insulated walls, I would've bought factory-made doors, instead. Whichever way you choose to build yours, good luck!
• started with a junk frame
• added tubing to stretch the frame as completed; latest addition (rack)

 

[dlh62c]

Before you commit, find out if your wife prefers to be standing when she pulls up her knickers.

 

[Louisd75]

Here are my initial thoughts on construction of the body:

1. Floor will be a bottom layer of 3/4 ply with a skeleton on top made from 2x4's on the sides and 2x2 horizontal runners, insulation panels then topped with a 1/2" sheet of ply
2. Im not 100% on the walls yet but seriously considering using 3/4 ply for the core and skeletonizing it to hold the panels of 3/4 insulation. 1/2" outer sheathing with aluminum skin and 1/4" inner walls. The rear galley bulkhead will be 3/4 birch ply as a base of the inner and galley cabinets.
3. Roof will have pockets cut out in the 3/4 wall structure for the 1x2 roof supports.

Figured I would at least get it to this stage, then run wiring, sheath the roof and then CPE the entire body before mounting to the frame.

1. Floor sounds like a lot of unnecessary weight. I went with 1/2" bottom, 1" rigid foam insulation with cut poplar pieces, and 1/8" for the inside deck. If I were doing it again, I'd go with 1/8" bottom. Properly glued together, these layers will be more than rigid enough for a teardrop.

2. I went a similar route, but know that 3/4" insulation is 3/4" while 3/4" plywood is always going to be undersized. Not the end of the world, but if you're planning on it just popping together you need to be prepared for a lot of pink dust as you sand the insulation to fit. I used 1" rigid foam on the walls, with an outer layer of 1/2" plywood, middle layer of 3/4" plywood and inner layer of 1/8" plywood. I used a template to skeletonize the middle layers (driver side and pax side). After the middle had all of the insulation pockets opened up, I attached the middle to the outer layer, then routed out approx 1/4" from the outer layer so that he insulation pocket was exactly the depth of the insulation thickness.

3. One recommendation for the roof is to think about how you'll attach the ceiling skin. You can go with the pockets for the roof supports, but if you go with a shelf of sorts on the middle and inner layers of the wall you can use the shelf to support the roof spars, insulation, and ceiling. The ceiling would go on first with temporary supports holding it up inside, followed by the spars, then the insulation and then finally the roof. I did my ceiling/spar/insulation/roof as one piece and then lifted it into place. I would not do it that way again.

As for building the frame first or last, I would recommend going frame first, especially if metal work isn't your strong point. I did the trailer frame up first and have a leveling jack on each corner. I put the fenders on (they recess into the body, so they had to be on for the wood work) but I left the wheels and tires off, using the leveling jacks to raise or lower the whole trailer depending on what I was working on. Roof/ceiling work? Drop the whole thing onto the ground. Underside work? Lift it up (32" jacks, I'd go up about 24" or so). At some point during your build you'll have nice weather and it's nice to be able to roll the trailer out of the garage, especially for paint/epoxy/varnish work.

My build, fwiw: http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=68563

 

[HyperActive]

Thanks for all the feedback! After reading through all of this, and even more countless hours of pouring through info over on the TnTTT forums and reading Seven Fredricks Teardrop manual, I have made a few changes to my initial thoughts on construction.

One thing to note is Im not shooting for a sub 1000lb camper. Im designing for strength, then re-analyzing for weight reduction. If I were to come in under 2000lbs, I would consider it a win to be honest.

Im planning to adjust the floor design to use 1/4 ply for the top and bottom skins sandwiched over a frame built from 2/4 side rails and 2x2 inner structure. 1.5" foam insulation in the voids all glued up. This will lighten it considerably but remain strong from what I can tell.

My walls on the other hand, Im really torn. I like the sandwiched idea mentioned above but after seeing how many teardrops are made with just 3/4" ply for the sides and aluminum skins, I like the simplicity of it. Im not going to be camping in sub-freezing temps, here in East TN the weather is pretty mild from spring to early winter. At least for an ex-Floridian! So not sure how much I really gain by going the skeleton method to add insulation vs just the simplicity of the 3/4" ply.

Im not planning to incorporate a water tank. I really wanted to at first but the reality is, I can carry a few Rotopax or Aquatainers with me for a weekend and it will be more than enough. We are only planning one long 14 day trip a year and in that case we can carry some extra.

Standing height wont be an issue either, Im planning for a Foxwing awning for the passenger side, and an ARB awning with the room addition for the drivers side for a "changing room", etc. to keep the wife happy.

For the ceiling, either way I go (skeletonized sandwich walls, or straight 3/4" birch ply walls) I will be cutting dados for the roof spars to sit in and plan to attach the inner ceiling panel once the spars are attached so I can work on the "outside" of the roof and run wiring, etc. Wasnt planning a dado the full length of the roof for the ceiling and dados to sit in, but have seen that in Steve's shop manual. That might be easier than cutting out individual dados for the spars on both side walls though.

As for the body/frame first question, my biggest reason for body first is that my shop is only 14w x 30d and with a large table saw/outfeed table, bandsaw, lathe, dust collector, etc I dont really have the room to put the trailer since it would add greatly to the overall footprint needed in the shop.

 

[HyperActive]

Well I finalized most of plans, started ordering parts/materials and got started some this past weekend. Didnt have a ton of time so I didnt get much finished but I managed to get the main frame rails, front/rear rails all cut, squared and welded up. Should start on cutting the rest of the cross-members and getting them tacked into place tonight and then finalize my axle location and get it mounted.

My doors, fantastic fan and several other parts have arrived and I had my rims/tires mounted to match my Jeep. Will post more pics later this week after I make more progress on the frame.

 

[HyperActive]

Been making a bit of progress here and there. Things have really picked up the last couple days. My stabilizer jacks arrived as well as the lock-n-roll hitch.

Frames getting close. Have the axle installed and all of the welding on the bottom side is completed. We just flipped the frame last night and will start welding the final joints on the top. Still have to install the shock kit and cap all the open tube ends as well.

 

[kzam]

Looking good! I love the wheels too.

 

[LexusAllTerrain]

Nice!