HJ45 Perpetually Dead Battery

[Strider]

I don't know what happened-text gone. Trying again.

The 1980 HJ45 pickup keeps getting a dead battery. Needs a jump every time its turned off. Was thinking at first that there may be a power drain, but this happened even with a new battery and I don't see a power drain killing a battery that fast, even after driving.
Will be driving it across Florida to a mechanic in about two weeks.
I think the alternator is dead, but won't know until I get there/mechanic looks at it.

Any ideas are welcome.

 

[Arktikos]

Don't the diesels need two batteries to start them?

 

[Mike W.]

Bad starter or a bad ground. From your description I'm guessing you have a short in your starter..

 

[WOODY2]

Don't the diesels need two batteries to start them?

Like in 24 volts? My Toyota diesel fork lift uses 24V starter.

 

[Arktikos]

Like in 24 volts? My Toyota diesel fork lift uses 24V starter.

I had a 12 volt 3B Toyota diesel. It was OEM dual batteries.

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

So the new battery starts the truck? Or you need a jump even with a new battery?

 

[NatersXJ6]

Do you have a multimeter? You mention taking this to a mechanic, but testing a battery fault versus an alternator fault is about as simple as it gets with very cheap tools and is where many people start to learn. I couldn’t imagine driving a 1980 truck if I had to rely on mechanics all the time. Leverage the internet and ask questions. Many people here will help you.

 

[Strider]

So the new battery starts the truck? Or you need a jump even with a new battery?

From what I was told, a new battery will start the truck, but once you stop somewhere and turn it off, the battery is drained/won;t start the truck.

 

[Strider]

I will be seeing the truck for the first time tomorrow, and driving it about 150 miles from East coast to West coast, Florida. This will allow me to take a bunch of photos and notes to see what I have.

Gonna also see about borrowing some sockets and get a cheap multi-meter to check the battery connections. I remember my CJ7, many years ago, wouldn't start and it wound up being the ground cable had come loose from the chassis or somthing like that. Maybe this is something similar.

Yes, it's a simple enough vehicle and that I like a lot. I just have to familiarize myself with it so I can do work and figure things out. Unfortunately, I only have a few hours tomorrow to figure anything out and drive it, since we fly back Sunday afternoon, otherwise I'd take the time to try and figure it out, and even replace the alternator myself.

 

[charlieaarons]

I second or third the suggestion (requirement!!): get a meter!!
Are you aware that a good, charged battery with engine off, no load, reads 12.8v; but when running, even at idle, should read 13.8-14.2v; if the alternator is working?
IMPORTANT: The only thing that can kill a good battery quickly with engine off is a serious short circuit. That’s easily diagnosed by removing either battery connection and seeing if there’s a spark with engine off. Batteries on their last legs may start a vehicle when on a charger, but a chargerless start or 2 will kill them.
Whether it’s 12 or 24v, at least in BJs, depended on whether for countries with cold climates or not. Lots of J4s had only 1 battery.
My 24v BJ40 had EDIC, solenoid to keep injection turned on. When it failed, and I replaced it with a push-pull cable, it would run with no battery once started. EDIC in 1979 (I got it new in Canada) may have been a cold climate or 1st world feature.
My current OJ50 Bandeirante (e.g. Brasil) has only 1 big battery.
1 more thing: having vehicles that aren’t daily drivers on trickle chargers (“battery maintainers”) saves lots of frustration and $$$$$. In Florida, get one that has a small solar panel, you can use it inside the vehicle if it’s parked outdoors. Although your sun is too high near the zenith except in your so-called “winter”. Since the windows/windshield are just about vertical.
In your case I’d put the highest probability on a dying battery, that can’t hold a charge. See my next post about headlights.
Bottom line is have a few tools and a meter, and the knowledge to use them; otherwise why buy a 40+ yo vehicle?

 

[charlieaarons]

Headlights = poor man’s voltmeter/battery status indicator. Not necessarily relevant with LEDs but this is a pre 85 J4, after all. The simplest post WW2 vehicle ever.

 

[NatersXJ6]

Toyota electric systems are not horrible, but when you say 1980 and Florida, you could very well find a nightmare of corrosion and bad connections or short circuits. I’ve been working on a 1970 FJ40 here in dry Cali and it only took me about 5 minutes to decide to strip all wiring out and begin again. The factory stuff was a nightmare and had been hacked by many previous owners. I can only imagine what salty humidity would do to all those exposed terminals and connections.

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

If a new battery will start it, and will not once it is warm, maybe it's heat soak in the starter.

Starter motors can go bad in a few different ways. Grime buildup polluting the windings, bad or broken solenoid, worn bearings, worn brushes.

 

[NatersXJ6]

From what I was told, a new battery will start the truck, but once you stop somewhere and turn it off, the battery is drained/won;t start the truck.

Buy some jumper cables. That truck attracts enough attention that someone will be around to jump you whenever you need it. You could easily get across country that way until you get to home base and can figure it out properly.

 

[Strider]

I have a meter and tools, but couldn't bring them (flew in from AZ). Well, the meter I actually forgot to bring-left it on my desk I think!
However, I am borrowing some tools and a multi-meter from one of my brothers in law here. Going to do a quick check tomorrow when I go pick it up.
Plan is to drive the LC-HJ45 to the mechanic and leave it there until I pick it up in the summer. In the meantime, he can diagnose any issues and fix them.

I would be glad to do it myself, but don't have the time. I could do it in the summer, but then that's time also that I can be driving it to AZ and doing other things. I had a Jeep CJ7 (also a 1980) back around 1990 that I rewired headlight to taillight (Painless Wiring), replaced a clutch, took off the body and fixed rust, replaced the engine with another 4.0, added Clifford intake and exhaust manifold, suspension... I'm not a mechanic but I played one at home sometimes.

I hope to replace the transmission with a 5 speed, and add power steering before I drive it back in the summer, so having it at the mechanic will be convenient. He's a friend of my wife's family, so he's good.

Once I get the LC home, I can start doing things myself, including building the camper pod.