thezentree
pretend redneck
Your attention to detail with this work is outstanding. Really enjoying this thread!
Hodakaguy's Overland Tacoma Builds - On to new adventures!
- Thread starter Hodakaguy
- Start date
Space Wrangler
Observer
BEST STATEMENT EVER
paranoid56
Adventurer
there is quite of bolt thread showing stock. I want to say almost 1.5" of thread showing stock.
Adventurous
Explorer
Did the clamshell you bought already have the ADD tube attached? I'm seeing people mention that most of the "complete" 3rds that you buy lack a gear that needs to be swapped over from your old diff and that it can be challenging to get it out. Still trying to dig up some more info on that as it's the not talked about portion of the installation...
toyotech
Expedition Leader
Can punch the gear out from the other side of the clamshell hole with a straight prybar
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bkg
Explorer
Yup. Takes about 20 minutes:
15 minutes to search the interwebs for a decent instruction/video while dealing with ADD-based distractions
and about 5 minutes to disassemble the ADD Tube, punch out the gear, and reassemble.
Hodakaguy
Adventurer
I was wondering the same thing myself but it turns out the bolts have a crazy amount of extra threads, plenty of threads left after installing the mounting bars so no extended bolts needed.
Hodaguy
Hodakaguy
Adventurer
Hodakaguy
Adventurer
I actually re-used my frond and rear diff. I removed them, had the gears installed and re-installed the same units. I left the frond unit totally assembled when I dropped it off at the shop.
Hodakaguy
Hodakaguy
Adventurer
My father completed the break in miles on his truck so back in the shop to change both diff oils and the engine oil. All oils looked good, we will flush the diffs one more time then install the Syn oil.
Time to install the wiring for the Four Wheel Camper. This connection will tie the camper into the Deep cycle aux battery on the truck, I will also use this connection to power the ARB fridge when the FWC isn't installed.
Drilled the hole in the bed for the electrical plug using a Uni-bit. I picked this spot since it's out of the way and will protect the plug nicely.
After the hole is drilled I De-burred the edges with the De-Burring tool. This tool smooths out the sharp edges and reduces the chances of any cracks forming from the sharp edges. (Not a big concern on this plastic bed but still a good practice).
Wiring up the Electrical plug before installing. The blue wire won't be used so here I'm just placing a piece of shrink tubing over the end to cover the bare wire. I placed some Liquid electrical tape on the end of the wire and into the end of the heat shrink tubing before shrinking it with the heat gun, makes a nice tight seal. This wire will then be enclosed in the larger shrink tubing with the rest of the wiring.
I use marine crimps and heat shrink tubing, both have glue on the inside and when heated the glue oozes out of the connection forming a nice water tight seal.
Connections made up and ready for install, heat shrink tubing sealed on both ends with liquid electrical tape to get between each wire.
Installed
Carefully routing the wiring up to the battery. I followed the factory wiring looms up to the front being careful of any rub points, exhaust etc.
Fitting up the Blue Sea ACR (Automatic Combining Relay). This relay with combine the Aux and main batteries together when charging as well as disconnecting the two so the starting battery can't go dead . You can manually combine the two as well to jump start yourself off the aux battery if needed or to supply extra juice to the Winch. I'll weld on some small studs to the top of the Stainless battery mount to attach the ACR.
This is where I'm planning on mounting the ACR. The factory harness will be removed from this battery, extended and connected to the smaller battery on the passenger side.
Making up the connections to the battery on the FWC wiring, shown here pre-heat shrink.
This will be a temporary connection for the FWC power until I finish the dual battery wiring.
Installing the 30A Maxifuse into the fuse holder.
Testing for power in the bed....looking good!
Earlier in the build I modified the lower air bag mounts so that the outer support leg would contact the axle again after I installed the thicker Dakar spring packs. All was good until I added the Degree shims to the rear axle and the outer support legs no longer touched the axle again. Time to fix it......again lol.
You can see the gap between the lower perch and the axle. What looks like grease is actually a layer of battery anti-corrosive wax that I had installed between the axle and the pad, this stuff drys to a waxy consistency and will prevent moisture from getting between the axle and support pad. When I installed the degree shims and the pad no longer rested on the axle it allowed dirt to stick to the wax.
Getting ready to cut off the support tab again.
Continued Below....
Time to install the wiring for the Four Wheel Camper. This connection will tie the camper into the Deep cycle aux battery on the truck, I will also use this connection to power the ARB fridge when the FWC isn't installed.
Drilled the hole in the bed for the electrical plug using a Uni-bit. I picked this spot since it's out of the way and will protect the plug nicely.
After the hole is drilled I De-burred the edges with the De-Burring tool. This tool smooths out the sharp edges and reduces the chances of any cracks forming from the sharp edges. (Not a big concern on this plastic bed but still a good practice).
Wiring up the Electrical plug before installing. The blue wire won't be used so here I'm just placing a piece of shrink tubing over the end to cover the bare wire. I placed some Liquid electrical tape on the end of the wire and into the end of the heat shrink tubing before shrinking it with the heat gun, makes a nice tight seal. This wire will then be enclosed in the larger shrink tubing with the rest of the wiring.
I use marine crimps and heat shrink tubing, both have glue on the inside and when heated the glue oozes out of the connection forming a nice water tight seal.
Connections made up and ready for install, heat shrink tubing sealed on both ends with liquid electrical tape to get between each wire.
Installed
Carefully routing the wiring up to the battery. I followed the factory wiring looms up to the front being careful of any rub points, exhaust etc.
Fitting up the Blue Sea ACR (Automatic Combining Relay). This relay with combine the Aux and main batteries together when charging as well as disconnecting the two so the starting battery can't go dead . You can manually combine the two as well to jump start yourself off the aux battery if needed or to supply extra juice to the Winch. I'll weld on some small studs to the top of the Stainless battery mount to attach the ACR.
This is where I'm planning on mounting the ACR. The factory harness will be removed from this battery, extended and connected to the smaller battery on the passenger side.
Making up the connections to the battery on the FWC wiring, shown here pre-heat shrink.
This will be a temporary connection for the FWC power until I finish the dual battery wiring.
Installing the 30A Maxifuse into the fuse holder.
Testing for power in the bed....looking good!
Earlier in the build I modified the lower air bag mounts so that the outer support leg would contact the axle again after I installed the thicker Dakar spring packs. All was good until I added the Degree shims to the rear axle and the outer support legs no longer touched the axle again. Time to fix it......again lol.
You can see the gap between the lower perch and the axle. What looks like grease is actually a layer of battery anti-corrosive wax that I had installed between the axle and the pad, this stuff drys to a waxy consistency and will prevent moisture from getting between the axle and support pad. When I installed the degree shims and the pad no longer rested on the axle it allowed dirt to stick to the wax.
Getting ready to cut off the support tab again.
Continued Below....
Hodakaguy
Adventurer
Continued from above....
Time to cut out some new support pads. Laying out the lines with a wrap around.
New support pad fabricated. Performing fit up and getting ready to weld on the new support leg.
Newly modified lower mount next to the previously modified mount. You can see the height difference here. I also changed the support shape to give a little extra strength.
And re-modified mounts installed and fitting as designed.
Installed the 285/75-R16 spare in the stock location. It's a VERY tight fit but it does fit. Had to tweak/bend the two forward mounts out a bit to allow clearance. I will also be fabricating a new extended heat shield to protect the tire from the exhaust pipe heat.
Installed in the truck.
It has clearance but I will be fabricating a better heat shield for the tire.
The two forward tabs (Red Arrow) need to be bent forward some for clearance, a large set of channel locks or crescent wrench works nicely.
Received the SSO hybrid bumper today. Overall the quality looks great although the push bar isn't level, it's a little less than a 1/4" lower on the right side than the left. I will cut the left side free and level the bar before painting, As well as cleaning up their welds. Pretty disappointing to see this on the bumper as I was going to paint it in the morning....oh well I can't leave it as it would drive me crazy knowing it's crooked
Baja Designs lighting that will be going in the bumper.
Warn Zeon 10-S that will be hiding behind the bumper.
Factor 55 flat link, should stow nicely on the front.
Back together once again.
Lot's more work to go.....
Hodakaguy
Time to cut out some new support pads. Laying out the lines with a wrap around.
New support pad fabricated. Performing fit up and getting ready to weld on the new support leg.
Newly modified lower mount next to the previously modified mount. You can see the height difference here. I also changed the support shape to give a little extra strength.
And re-modified mounts installed and fitting as designed.
Installed the 285/75-R16 spare in the stock location. It's a VERY tight fit but it does fit. Had to tweak/bend the two forward mounts out a bit to allow clearance. I will also be fabricating a new extended heat shield to protect the tire from the exhaust pipe heat.
Installed in the truck.
It has clearance but I will be fabricating a better heat shield for the tire.
The two forward tabs (Red Arrow) need to be bent forward some for clearance, a large set of channel locks or crescent wrench works nicely.
Received the SSO hybrid bumper today. Overall the quality looks great although the push bar isn't level, it's a little less than a 1/4" lower on the right side than the left. I will cut the left side free and level the bar before painting, As well as cleaning up their welds. Pretty disappointing to see this on the bumper as I was going to paint it in the morning....oh well I can't leave it as it would drive me crazy knowing it's crooked
Baja Designs lighting that will be going in the bumper.
Warn Zeon 10-S that will be hiding behind the bumper.
Factor 55 flat link, should stow nicely on the front.
Back together once again.
Lot's more work to go.....
Hodakaguy