Hodakaguy's Overland Tacoma Builds - On to new adventures!

Hodakaguy

Adventurer
Continued from above......

And attached to the truck....rock solid!...and no holes!

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Intake tubing connected. Inner fender liner re-installed right after this step.

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Air box going back in. I always grease the seal on the filter with a good waterproof grease to ensure no fine dust makes it's way around the filter and into the engine.

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The quality and fit of the ARB unit is VERY good!

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Playing with ART mode on the camera.

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Time to work on my fathers truck and get it caught up to mine. First up install the Hypertech speedo calibrator and TPAM mount.

First the Hypertech unit going in. About a ten minute job.

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Installing the TPAM mount. I found it easier on mine to remove the entire radio unit and AC controls.

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Tying the USB power on the TPAM into the factory accessory plug. On mine the wire they gave me was about 1" short and I really had a problem making it reach. This time I extended the harness to make sure I had enough play.

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TPAM installed. Haven't mounted the RAM accessories yet.

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Continued Below.....
 

Hodakaguy

Adventurer
Continued from above....

Not a lot of pics but we installed the Sliders on my fathers truck today.

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Last on the list for today is to install the onboard charger in the camper. I'll be installing the charger in the battery compartment, I know that's not an ideal location but space is limited for these kind of mods in the shell model. The battery compartment has two outside vents and the batteries are sealed. I'll monitor the temperature on the charger unit and if it's getting to warm I'll install a small 12v fan on one of the vents to pull in fresh cool air when charging.

The IOTA 15A onboard charger with IQ AGM Module. This charger will provide proper voltages for the 3 stages of charge on the AGM batts and bring the batts up to 14.7V for a proper bulk charge.

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Marking the bolt locations. The charger will be mounted on the roof of the battery compartment with flush mounted SS through bolts.

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Flush mounted hardware.

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Charger mounted and wired.

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Plugged in and charging the batts :)

Hodakaguy
 
Last edited:

patoz

Expedition Leader
You can't go wrong with an IOTA Charger. I have a 55A in my rig which is acting as a Converter to provide 12VDC to power the DC components of the 120VAC Shore Power HVAC System, and another 75A which I'm using as a portable charger to keep up a small bank of Trojan T-105 batteries. No problems with either one so far.
 

aaen

Adventurer
what sealant did you use on the Snorkel? Looks like you just hose clamped it? I thought it had to be a silicone that won't foul the sensors?

Appreciate any feedback as I am looking to install the same snorkel here in the coming months.

Thanks

Steve
 

Hodakaguy

Adventurer
what sealant did you use on the Snorkel? Looks like you just hose clamped it? I thought it had to be a silicone that won't foul the sensors?

Appreciate any feedback as I am looking to install the same snorkel here in the coming months.

Thanks

Steve

No sealant needed. It's a tight fit with rubber against plastic, just the hose clamp is required. Let me know if you have any questions on the install.

Hodakaguy
 

Hodakaguy

Adventurer
Today's task....Wiring up the Switch-Pro unit.

Getting ready to run the wire from the Switch-Pro unit to the interior switch assy. There is a rubber plug on the drivers side next to the brake booster that allows easy access to the interior through the firewall. The hole is just big enough that you don't need to remove the electrical connector to get the wiring through. I cut a hole the size of the wire in the middle of the plug and re-installed the plug once the wire was through.

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Removing the factory switch holder and storage pocket. This will be replaced with a SDHQ Switch-Pro mount.

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The factory switch holder on the left and the SDHQ unit on the right....Quality piece!

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OEM switches transferred over to the SDHQ holder.

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Getting ready to install the switch assy. Using Loctite 243 to anchor the studs into the rear of the assy. Note: Don't assemble the unit out of the dash plastic or you won't be able to get the whole assembly back in the dash in one piece, the unit needs to be assembled in the dash plastic.

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The Switch-Pro harness is very long, I coiled the excess up under the dash and secured it hidden and out of the way.

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Unit assembled in the dash plastic.

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And installed. The quality and fit of the SDHQ holder is awesome, looks factory!

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Wiring as it enters the truck through the firewall, it's way up high and out of the way.

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Terminating the power wires to the Switch-Pro. Marine grade heat shrink terminals work great, coupled with some marine grade heat shrink tubing it makes for tidy wiring. I think down the road I will make a cover for the unit to protect the positive terminals and keep any moisture off the unit.

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Making up a harness for the Baja Designs S8 light bar that's installed in the bumper.

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Continued Below...
 

Hodakaguy

Adventurer
Continued from above.....


Light bar wiring terminated and labeled.

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Connecting the trigger wiring to the fuse panel. There are three wires that get connected to the fuse panel, one for ignition so that the Switch Pro knows when the truck is running, one for lights (used to auto dim the face and also as a trigger wire if desired and a third wire that is a trigger wire you can connect to your choosing depending on desired application.

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The mini add a fuse holder. This is a super clean way of tapping into your factory harness without compromising the factory wiring in any way.

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And trigger wires connected. I ran the white wire to the low beam headlights circuit, the light blue ignition wire to the AC circuit and the pink trigger wire to the high beam circuit.

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Wiring enters in the corner of the fuse box up from the bottom and heat shrink tubing on the wiring makes a good seal.

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Starting to add the labeling on the switch panel, even more factory looking.

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Wiring finished.

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Now to download the Bluetooth app and program the Switch-Pro unit. This thing is slick!



EDIT: Add a Circuit Fuse Holders

The Switch-Pro kit came with one Add a Circuit fuse holder assembly that accepts Mini fuses. I purchased two more identical Add a Circuit fuse holders to use on the remaining two trigger wires (I don't like to cut factory wiring if not needed). When I pulled the OEM fuses I noticed they are using Mini-Low Profile fuses and not the standard Mini fuse that came with the Switch-Pro. The Mini Add a Circuits fit ok but seemed to have a tad looser fit than I like, although I'm sure it would work fine in the long run. I installed what I had and yesterday picked up a few Add a Circuit units that are designed for the Mini Low Profile fuses.

A standard Mini fuse on the left and a Mini Low Profile fuse on the right. Notice the plastic is thicker between the connectors on the Mini low Profile, this makes for a snug fit in the fuse panel.

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Here are the Add a Circuit Fuse Holders....again Mini on the left and Low Profile on the right. The bottom fuse is for the factory circuit and you need to match whatever was in the factory location. The top fuse protects the circuit your adding, I'll be running 5 amp fuses on the trigger wires.

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I replaced two of the three Add A Circuits with the low profile units. Because of where I chose to connect for my trigger wiring one location wouldn't properly accept a low profile Add a Circuit. At the High Beam fuse location there is a square fuse that sticks up a bit and prevents the low profile unit from fully engaging the fuse panel, the taller standard Mini Add a Circuit fit in this location with the extra clearance it provides. I swapped out the Ignition trigger and the Low beam trigger with the Low Clearance units and kept the Standard mini on the High Beam trigger.
Note: I replaced the snap tie attached to the factory wiring bundle in this picture with tape to prevent and future chaffing on the factory wiring.


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Hodakaguy
 
Last edited:

aaen

Adventurer
Really? And that is water tight? Reason I am asking is I have a few trips planned that the water comes up over the wheel well, just want to make sure that this is a kosher install for water crossings.

Steve

No sealant needed. It's a tight fit with rubber against plastic, just the hose clamp is required. Let me know if you have any questions on the install.

Hodakaguy
 

Hodakaguy

Adventurer
Really? And that is water tight? Reason I am asking is I have a few trips planned that the water comes up over the wheel well, just want to make sure that this is a kosher install for water crossings.

Steve

The connection is completely waterproof without any sealant needed. Rubber seals and hose clamps work great to form a perfect seal, lots of critical connections rely on this setup. Your factory air box to engine connections are just a rubber to plastic seal without sealant.
Hodakaguy
 

Hodakaguy

Adventurer
Went out this morning to try out the 30" S8 light bar. Pics were taken on the same manual settings for each shot. This baby throws some good usable light!

I love the daylight color spectrum of the Baja Designs lights, no weird blue or purple tint.

Baja Designs 30" S8 Bar in the SSO Hybrid Bumper.

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The low and High beams are the stock bulbs .

Low Beams...

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High Beams

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High Beams and Light Bar

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In these shots I zoomed in a ways down the road to better see how far each beam is throwing.

Low Beams

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High Beams

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High Beams and Light Bar

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Hodakaguy
 

aaen

Adventurer
The connection is completely waterproof without any sealant needed. Rubber seals and hose clamps work great to form a perfect seal, lots of critical connections rely on this setup. Your factory air box to engine connections are just a rubber to plastic seal without sealant.
Hodakaguy

Good to know, I know the old versions required sealant which is why I was asking. Build is awesome, keep up the good work!!
 

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