How high up can I mount my hawse fairlead?

[taiden]

Is it okay to mount my hawse fairlead in between the feet on my winch? (My winch is mounted on it's back, feet facing forward)

I realized that the line will come off the spool tangent no matter what, but there isn't a radius on the back of the fairlead. (I plan on smoothing it up with a file, but it won't be much more than a 1/8" radius.)

I'm doing a hidden winch mount on my Cherokee, and I'd like the hawse fairlead to sit as close to perfect center in my bumper.

Additional question, how sturdy a mount does the fairlead need? I'd like to mount it directly to my bumper skin, if that's kosher.

 

[zimm]

idealy, the line exits the winch drum and doesnt touch the fairlead, but, being that you will have 4 wraps of depth, i dont see how that is possible in practice. the line makes contact with the fairlead at the radius, and this limits line wear.

being a hawse isnt a roller contact, and youd be dragging it over the sharp edge of the back, id design to function and not aesthetics.

 

[Oman4x4]

I don't know if it has been done before - but if I had that problem I would plan on getting another fairlead on the back-side and sandwich the bumper face in between them. That way you'll have a nice round edge on both sides.

 

[taiden]

That's not a bad idea, but we're $100 deep in steel hawse fairleads at that point. :Wow1:

 

[zimm]

That's not a bad idea, but we're $100 deep in steel hawse fairleads at that point. :Wow1:

the warns are 45 bucks on amazon prime. free shipping. if youre insisting on dragging that line at a sharp angle so the hole is centered, buy it.

 

[taiden]

Yea, I bought one for the project already, so two is $90.

I'm hiding it behind a license plate anyway, so I can mount it lower than I expected, but the question remains the same. I guess I'll probably just have to run it and see.

 

[Master-Pull]

I don't know if it has been done before - but if I had that problem I would plan on getting another fairlead on the back-side and sandwich the bumper face in between them. That way you'll have a nice round edge on both sides.

This is something to consider. Whether you're running wire or synthetic rope, an 1/8" radius isn't enough and is likely to cause line failure. The cost of an extra fairlead now is better than having to get your line repaired or replaced sometime down the road. As zimm said, ideally the line doesn't contact the fairlead as it exits the drum, and it sounds like yours will be in constant contact with the fairlead. So you're setup isn't ideal, but a larger radius will help some. I'd still be worried about heat build-up and abrasion from the constant friction, though.

-Lyle

 

[taiden]

I wonder now if a roller fairlead would be a better move. I figured the hawse would fit better when all is said and done, but I'm not sure it's the best idea.

 

[zimm]

i never used a delerin (sp?) roller. i never saw the need. i also noticed even the high quality steel rollers dragged more than spun when i used steel cable.

unless youre doing english winching contests with a 3 motor giggle pin 8274, id bag the rollers.

 

[Bigjerm]

I think I saw a slim style roller fairlead at a truck show. I want to say it was made by smittybuilt. Basically the top, bottom and side rollers were all at the same point instead of the side rollers being infront of thr bottom/top like most

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