How is your van altered for offroading?

How is your van altered?


  • Total voters
    36

Stevemo

Member
2004 Chevy Express 3500 Roadtrek with 5" lift. I also went through all of the cabinets and tuned up the latches so they are tight and don't jiggle. :D
I haven't gone offroading yet but it now has about the same clearance as my Jeep with a 2" lift but obviously the wheelbase is totally different.
 

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Stevemo

Member
It's horrible but I always get horrible fuel economy when I'm sitting behind a V8. I think I was getting 9 mpg with a total weight of 16,000 lbs driving at 55 mph. The trailer is the perfect dimensions to match the van which are 7 x 16 with a 6'6 interior. Total length is about 40'. Going with an aluminum trailer with a 7700 lb GVWR gives about 1000 pounds more payload than the same size 7000 lb steel trailer.
 

pnichols

Member
I do not understand the anti-dually sentiment expressed in so many of the offroad forums. :unsure:

It seems as if:

1. Duallies give you "tire redundancy" ... if one tire of a set goes flat, you still have three more tires in the rear to keep you going for a bit. I had this happen to me once in my small motorhome built on an E450 chassis. I went 5-6 miles down the road with one outside rear tire flat until I could get to a place to repair it.

2. I don't understand the "stuck rock" problem. Just air down the outside tire and bingo out comes the rock easily (you do carry a compressor when off-road for reinflating - don't you?).

3. Why would one need the rear to be down into the same terrible rut that the front tires are in? I for one would want the rear to be riding up out of the ruts for better traction ... which is what rear duallies provide because each dually set is likely wider than the rut under it. In fact when we are driving our small motorhome offroad, I intentionally try to avoid the ruts with my front tires by driving just a bit up out of them to the left or right. The rear duals of course keep the rear riding up out of the ruts. By the way, rut-avoidance helps keep the entire undercarriage from getting banged by rocks sticking up in the road in between the ruts.
 

Photobug

Well-known member
Your departure angle is what will get ya every time haha
View attachment 633938

This happened to me last summer in my truck which has a much better stance and departure angle. The dip was in shadow so I did not even see it coming. Having my tow hitch installed was a bad idea.

I have all your suggested items on hand except for a jack. I plan to buy one on my upcoming trip. Without any special bumpers where would I jack from?20200626_143827.jpg20200626_143827.jpg
 
Last edited:

willywalderbeast

Master of None
Yea not sure where your best jacking points would be with a hi-lift. Maybe the hitch receiver and same in the front if you have one installed. Also the wheels with a proper strap. I also carry a 20 ton air hydraulic bottle jack that can be handy and might be a better option for you. If you have an on board air setup you can power it off that and not have to worry about sticking it somewhere and having the strength in a awkward position to jack the tiny bottle jack style handle. Great for changing tires! I have the cheap HF one that I bought 5 years ago when I bought my rig and it still works great.
 

pnwkayaker

New member
Just to provide a different perspective, I drive a 1987 VW Vanagon Syncro - AWD, with rear lockers and low-granny gear (all factory). My "off-road" mods have been upgrading tires from factory 14" to 16", big brakes, upgraded suspension (new shocks and springs with 2" lift), rock-sliders and RMW metal bumpers (still need to mount the hi-lift to the bumper and a light bar). Does converting engine to Subaru 2.5 count as an off-road mod?

I've taken it to several crazy off-road places in the PNW, and so far, it's been super-reliable (well, except the time when I broke the CV joint or when I fried the clutch, but both were my fault). Now it's mostly being used as a ski pod in the winter (love driving in the snow) and family exploration vehicle in the summer.
 

mobydick 11

Active member
Just to provide a different perspective, I drive a 1987 VW Vanagon Syncro - AWD, with rear lockers and low-granny gear (all factory). My "off-road" mods have been upgrading tires from factory 14" to 16", big brakes, upgraded suspension (new shocks and springs with 2" lift), rock-sliders and RMW metal bumpers (still need to mount the hi-lift to the bumper and a light bar). Does converting engine to Subaru 2.5 count as an off-road mod?

I've taken it to several crazy off-road places in the PNW, and so far, it's been super-reliable (well, except the time when I broke the CV joint or when I fried the clutch, but both were my fault). Now it's mostly being used as a ski pod in the winter (love driving in the snow) and family exploration vehicle in the summer.
This is sort of funny . I purchased a Doka syncro at an auction the other day . Going to be fixing it up and hopefully having some adventures with it . I have not picked it up yet because of the holidays . They say it does not run ,so I do not know what I am in for yet . Maybe that's what I am doing to make my van more off road worthy ,towing a Doka.
 

Bikersmurf

Expedition Leader
I just need to mount the tow bar on my 40 and I’ll be set. Between the two I’d have the best of both worlds. Base camp ‘cabin’ and an extremely capable trail rig.
 

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