How many run "old" rigs?

Root Moose

Expedition Leader
I don't have a problem with old vehicles. I like modern stuff in general but appreciate some of the older designs/shapes out there.

I do however have a minimum "spec" that a machine has to have in order for me to consider running it... and some of these items can be retrofit into an old rig...


1.) EFI - I will never run a carb'ed vehicle on purpose again (Bt/dt). If you have a clue troubleshooting EFI is straightforward enough. I mean really, the guys in the garages that deal with this stuff daily are not there because NASA is full. If they can deal with EFI so can you. EFI gets you automatic mixture control to compensate for altitude and temperature and as a result means the minimum amount of fuel required is burned. What's not to like?

2.) Prefer automatic but would consider a manual for the correct vehicle. Has to be an overdrive transmission whether manual or automatic.

3.) Lever shifted transfer case. Had a vehicle with solenoid driven transfer case shifting. I'll never tolerate that again.

4.) Air conditioning. I won't have a station wagon / estate vehicle without A/C. I will tolerate no A/C in a soft top vehicle.

5.) Proper three point seat belts for all four passengers. This is non-negotiable. I would retrofit this into an old vehicle if required. That includes putting a roll bar and three point seat belts into something like an old flat fender.

6.) Solid front axle. I've run both SFA and IFS multiple times. I will always insist on SFA going forward.


Things that are "modern" that I like but would not necessarily make one vehicle trump an older vehicle.

i.) Air bags. Pretty obvious, and I'm the type that feels naked without a seat belt. Every little bit helps in a crash.

ii.) Electric window lifts and power locks. Convenience is good.

iii.) OBD-II. Diagnostics are great.


"Modern" things I'm not keen on but will tolerate:

a.) Traction control. Retrofitting larger axles can be a PITA if you want to retain TCS. I don't have any experience with these systems or stuff like "hill descent control" on a truck. I'm guessing they are marginal but could save an unskilled or inattentive driver. On a car in a race scenario I will always turn it off. On a high powered street car I would leave it turned on when driving on public roads (see inattentive above).

b.) ABS. ABS is a great thing, in an on-road or racing situation it absolutely rocks. Problem is that most truck ABS systems completely suck. They are also a PITA to retain when doing an axle swap. My "non-car" friends hate the maintenance issues they generate. A friend has a Dodge Caravan (MY03?) and it seems every 9-12 months it is in the shop because the ABS idiot lights are lit up on the dash. I have a feeling he is being raped by the dealer for trivialities. Replacing a sensor takes what, $50 in parts and five minutes to swap?

c.) Automatic climate control. Some of these systems are a little nuts. Some are simple enough. Depends on the vehicle. I'm content with straightforward HVAC.



I keep waffling about the next vehicle. One part of me says FSJ the other says WJ. I've pretty much purged the desires for other vehicles. It's a good thing I don't have "real money" as I'd likely have a couple dozen vehicles if I could afford it. Amelda Marcos and her shoes would have nothing on me and cars. LOL

The FSJ is old fashioned and I'd likely swap in a 4.0/AW4 combo out of a late model XJ to get EFI, overdrive automatic and OBD-II. I'd likely buy a late 1980s FSJ to get the full window/lock power group and A/C.

If I got a WJ there wouldn't be any drivetrain stuff to do... Integrating the ABS with a rear axle swap (Ford 8.8"?) would be the only real issue. This wouldn't be new ground though - it's been done before and is reasonably well documented on the 'Net.

So, I would run an old vehicle without issues but that doesn't mean it would stay an "old" vehicle per se. The big thing that keeps old vehicles from being more common in this area is that we are in the rust belt. There just aren't that many old vehicles around or the ones that are around are not worth spending the time or money on because they are rust buckets. In my own case, if I go the FSJ route I'll likely be shopping in the S.W. for something to import.

$0.02

EDIT: Just realized this was posted in the Toyota section. While my posts ends being Jeep specific I think one could make the same type of comparisons between say an FJ60 and a LX470. How cool would a FJ60 with the drivetrain from a LX470 be?! Awesome.
 
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Claimjumper

New member
I guess I fall into the older vehicle category. Partly because that is what I can afford, and partly because I enjoy modifying and getting to know my equipment. Since moved to Idaho in '93 I have owned:
'82 shortbox Toyota 4x4 with 6 inches of lift and 36's-mostly reliable, not so great on the highway
'69 Jeepster Commando w/ Buick V6, Dana 44's NP205-reliable, noisy, good at crawling, dusty, cold as **** in the winter (scrape the INSIDE of the windows anyone).
'89 GMC Jimmy fullsize-comfy, too wide, awful mileage.
'88 Suzuki Samurai-lifted. Awesome offroad, fun in town, painful on the open road.
'89 Toyota P/U, 22RE/auto-slow, no a/c, reliable as a rock.
which brings me to my latest: '92 4runner SR5 with 22RE, 5spd, A/C. This is the best of both worlds for me. A/C so I can drive on the highway in the summer without going deaf, also for those dusty idaho roads. Decent mileage, semi-modern safety (head rests, 3 point belts disc brakes etc). I may do a SAS on it but right now I am fine with the IFS. I bought this one for 2200 and had to change the head gasket and replace the timing chain/cover. In the process I had the head rebuilt and put in an RV cam. With a set of tires I am less than 3500 into it. The alternative is to buy a newer one and make those payments. Payments make it hard for me to do my other hobbies (motorcycles) so it is a reasonable tradeoff for me. Then again I have a real short commute and I usually ride my bicycle.
 

freeze

Adventurer
My 81 Toyota SR5 Truck 4x4 was my trusty steed for a long time. I really enjoy both, new and old.

Future upgrades will be LC Engineering 22R/E Long block, bobbed bed, a rack to hold the RTT on the back, and Marlin's 5" springs in the rear to hold the weight.

Other than that she's still good for trips around Canada. Right now I'm trying to get rid of the external regulator on the 22R and going with a GM 1 Wire Alt. This is it's only weakness at the moment.

I believe the combination of capable crawler and overland will become a growing trend. It's rare to see a crawler built to sustain long distance trips comfortably or an expedition vehicle comfortable in the rocks. This is the goal with the two Toyota's I own. Long distance expedition able... rock crawler. The Tacoma is about there. The 81 a bit further behind but will be there next year.

This was my inspiration a while ago. I can't find a better picture but it's Mudrak's FJ45
212_fj45MudrakColClosedS.jpg
 
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refried

Adventurer
I'm still driving my '81 4x4 shortbed and have no reason to stop. over the last 25+ years and 300,000+ miles it's had several engines a couple trannys but it has only left me stranded once when it broke a rod. I built it to be simple and reliable in the early '80s and it has been, I wasn't happy with the lack of power so I swapped in a Buick V6 and automatic and have been very happy since. The Buick engine may not have the longevity of the Toyota 4cyl but it has much more power, a Holley carb and a GM alternator and starter, not much to go wrong.
scan0006-2.jpg
 

Claimjumper

New member
That reminds of my old '82 Refried. I thought about the Buick conversion myself, I know they fit ok. I had the Buick 225 in my Commando and it was the best thing about that truck.
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
My newest dirt roads capable vehicle is a '91 and when it sells I'll be falling back to a pair of '84's. I'm not sure that I'd call them "old" though. To me, "old" is pre 1970.

snippage.............

Other than that she's still good for trips around Canada. Right now I'm trying to get rid of the external regulator on the 22R and going with a GM 1 Wire Alt. This is it's only weakness at the moment.

I'd advise NOT using a one-wire alternator. Use a std configuration alternator. That way you can get a replacement in BFE and it will wire up correctly and have it work. Single wires also tend to need more RPM to charge.
Delco CS-130 on my 22R:
IMG_0248-1.jpg

IMG_0251-1.jpg
 
I have an 88 4urnner that I have done WAY too much work to and I still cant fix everything. I thought about selling it so I typed up this ad:

<snip>

But Ive had way too much of my spare time and money into it to give up now. It still needs a new transmission, rear main seal, ignition module, and new exhaust.


Look at it this way - by staying with an older vehicle and keeping it fixed up, you kept the money out of the banker's grubby hands as much as possible and instead directed that money to parts manufacturers, parts shops, and mechanics for stuff you couldn't do. These people are part of the real economy.

Like someone said, either way, you're going to pay out money. It's up to you to decide who benefits from that money.

Stephanie
 
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Co-opski

Expedition Leader
I just wanted to look through this list that you posted up. Some of it I would consider general maintenance just like oil changes. Like others have said all thing wear out it is just getting them logged when they were last changed and get a good rotation of fixing them as they come up.
This just a short list off the top of my head of things that have failed on the road or required replacement later, I'm sure I forgot some too...

I'm on my 3rd engine, first one was tired after 300k, second one was a very shoddily rebuilt engine that lasted 600 miles, now running a good one from Davez Offroad
Rebuilt Carb
Rebuilt front axle
New brakes all around
Clutch slave cyl
Brake booster
Brake Master Cylinder
LSPV
Transmission
Clutch
Flywheel
Wheel bearings all around
Knuckle Bearings
All vacuum lines
Vacuum advance
Radiator hoses
Throttle Cable
Plug Wires/plugs
Coil

Starter
Exhaust/header
AC compressor
Battery
Motor Mount
 

Ford Prefect

Expedition Leader
I have an 84 CJ-7 and it goes every time. The times I have had issues were things that I did for preventative maintenence. That is the big thing though, do the job BEFORE You get stuck on the trail.

I know a lot of guys who would call my jeep "NEW" Heck there is a group here in utah that will not let you in if you drive anything newer than a '70 so...

Just keep it up and it will keep you happy, but if you do not keep it up you can forget about it.

Think about this though... How much will you spend to fix up that 84 runner vs how much would you spend to get a new taco? I mean if you can afford to be putting 200 a month into a truck, boy, that would buy a LOT of fixes for your old Toy, and you would not have to pay that much for six years!
 

kletzenklueffer

Adventurer
Here's the trucks I've had over the past 25 years, and a bit about them, why I kept them or sold them:

17yrs old in 1987. 1982 Toyota 4x4LWB. Drove til 1991 when I bought a '72 Blazer. Kept both for two years. Toyota would go anywhere, never broke down and did go everywhere. Little power, but it kept me from getting a ticket too. It had no mods, just 31" mud tires. Blazer was cool, loud, topless, and a pig on the road. Like driving a pontoon boat. It got 6 mpg, so I had the engine rebuilt, and it still got 6mpg. Gas was 1.15 a gallon, so not much of an issue at the time. I came to the point that I needed to sell one truck to fix the other. The toyota needed lift and gears, and the Blazer needed body work. I sold the Blazer. It was too fat for trails and just didn't perform offroad. I put 32's and 4.56 gears in the toyota and a 3" Downey lift. A year later I found a V8 CJ7 and bought it. I sold the toyota to put money in the Jeep. The jeep got 11mpg, so better than the Blazer, not as good as the Toyota. The jeep needed some work, so I put a lift, some interior work, had the engine rebuilt, etc. It was fast as all get out, but I had a son coming and a 1 year old in a car seat in a CJ was not reasonable, so I sold it and bought an 86 4Runner in 98. The 4Runner was near perfect. 57,000 miles, original floor mats had never been stepped on, the rear seat had never been sat on. Everything was perfect on it. I put 180,000 miles on this truck over ten years. I had a problem with the radiator and some hoses with corroded clamps, which in turn caused the head to warp from overheating. Cost me a couple thousand to resolve, but bottom line is I spent 9,000 on the truck in ten years. I sold it to my best friend who still drives it and I bought a 97 4runner. It's not as perfect, and had been wrecked, but I've put 100,000 miles on it in 2.5 years. I've replaced the radiator and the flex plate to the tune of $800. It has 233,000 miles and has been reliable.

So point is, aside from the first Toyota, I've never owned anything newer than 10 years old, and I've spent less in repairs than I ever would have in car payments. As was stated above, it's a process of long term rebuilding. Everything will eventually wear out, so if you're buying an old one from the start, factor the cost of replacing every major component into the total cost, and throw in a bit for small stuff. If I bought an 82 Toyota now, it'd run around $2000 +/-. I could put another $5K in it in engine, tranny, axles, etc, and another $3-5K in "nice to haves"., but bottom line is I'd have a near new vehicle for 12-15K, provide the frame is in good shape. It'll never brign that in resale, but that's not the point anyway.
 

getlost4x4

Expedition Leader
i have a 78 jeep wagoneer. only 71K miles, only a little rust. mint interior, new 360 V8, th400, Quadra drive.

its simple to work on, reliable, easy to modify and pretty cheap on parts

its easy to upgrade the suspension since its leaf springs all around. i'm only going to run 33" tires on it, so the D44 front and rear will be up to the task. i can get parts anywhere in the USA. And with a 42 gallon gas tank, i only stop to pee and fill up the tank every 500-700 miles.:smiley_drive:

i got rid of my commander because i was sick of car payments and high insurance. now i have no car payment, $500 a year for full coverage auto insurance. my commander's car payment was $450 a month and $100 a month for insurance. i now have that money to put into my wagoneer and save to save for a house!

and in this crappy economy it feels good to know i can't lose my waggy if i lose my job.:victory:
 

7wt

Expedition Leader
I have a 2003 Tacoma so it is only a matter of time that my truck is considered old.
 

slus

Adventurer
Well, I have some good news. I'm finally starting to trust my 4runner on longer trips. We took it camping last weekend up in the Costal Range, put about 500 miles on it in all types of terrain, left it parked for a whole day, and it fired right up every time and ran like a top. I'm just passing 1000 miles without so much as a hicup, a new record for me!

...but now the "mod parts" are starting to pile up. So much for this being the inexpensive route...:sombrero:


I have a 2003 Tacoma so it is only a matter of time that my truck is considered old.

You have a LONG ways to go. My truck is older than I am.

I don't have a problem with old vehicles. I like modern stuff in general but appreciate some of the older designs/shapes out there.

I do however have a minimum "spec" that a machine has to have in order for me to consider running it... and some of these items can be retrofit into an old rig...


1.) EFI - I will never run a carb'ed vehicle on purpose again (Bt/dt). If you have a clue troubleshooting EFI is straightforward enough. I mean really, the guys in the garages that deal with this stuff daily are not there because NASA is full. If they can deal with EFI so can you. EFI gets you automatic mixture control to compensate for altitude and temperature and as a result means the minimum amount of fuel required is burned. What's not to like?

2.) Prefer automatic but would consider a manual for the correct vehicle. Has to be an overdrive transmission whether manual or automatic.

3.) Lever shifted transfer case. Had a vehicle with solenoid driven transfer case shifting. I'll never tolerate that again.

4.) Air conditioning. I won't have a station wagon / estate vehicle without A/C. I will tolerate no A/C in a soft top vehicle.

5.) Proper three point seat belts for all four passengers. This is non-negotiable. I would retrofit this into an old vehicle if required. That includes putting a roll bar and three point seat belts into something like an old flat fender.

6.) Solid front axle. I've run both SFA and IFS multiple times. I will always insist on SFA going forward.


Things that are "modern" that I like but would not necessarily make one vehicle trump an older vehicle.

i.) Air bags. Pretty obvious, and I'm the type that feels naked without a seat belt. Every little bit helps in a crash.

ii.) Electric window lifts and power locks. Convenience is good.

iii.) OBD-II. Diagnostics are great.


"Modern" things I'm not keen on but will tolerate:

a.) Traction control. Retrofitting larger axles can be a PITA if you want to retain TCS. I don't have any experience with these systems or stuff like "hill descent control" on a truck. I'm guessing they are marginal but could save an unskilled or inattentive driver. On a car in a race scenario I will always turn it off. On a high powered street car I would leave it turned on when driving on public roads (see inattentive above).

b.) ABS. ABS is a great thing, in an on-road or racing situation it absolutely rocks. Problem is that most truck ABS systems completely suck. They are also a PITA to retain when doing an axle swap. My "non-car" friends hate the maintenance issues they generate. A friend has a Dodge Caravan (MY03?) and it seems every 9-12 months it is in the shop because the ABS idiot lights are lit up on the dash. I have a feeling he is being raped by the dealer for trivialities. Replacing a sensor takes what, $50 in parts and five minutes to swap?

c.) Automatic climate control. Some of these systems are a little nuts. Some are simple enough. Depends on the vehicle. I'm content with straightforward HVAC.



I keep waffling about the next vehicle. One part of me says FSJ the other says WJ. I've pretty much purged the desires for other vehicles. It's a good thing I don't have "real money" as I'd likely have a couple dozen vehicles if I could afford it. Amelda Marcos and her shoes would have nothing on me and cars. LOL

The FSJ is old fashioned and I'd likely swap in a 4.0/AW4 combo out of a late model XJ to get EFI, overdrive automatic and OBD-II. I'd likely buy a late 1980s FSJ to get the full window/lock power group and A/C.

If I got a WJ there wouldn't be any drivetrain stuff to do... Integrating the ABS with a rear axle swap (Ford 8.8"?) would be the only real issue. This wouldn't be new ground though - it's been done before and is reasonably well documented on the 'Net.

So, I would run an old vehicle without issues but that doesn't mean it would stay an "old" vehicle per se. The big thing that keeps old vehicles from being more common in this area is that we are in the rust belt. There just aren't that many old vehicles around or the ones that are around are not worth spending the time or money on because they are rust buckets. In my own case, if I go the FSJ route I'll likely be shopping in the S.W. for something to import.

$0.02

EDIT: Just realized this was posted in the Toyota section. While my posts ends being Jeep specific I think one could make the same type of comparisons between say an FJ60 and a LX470. How cool would a FJ60 with the drivetrain from a LX470 be?! Awesome.

I agree on some of that. What I like about my old truck is that it lacks so many of the things you want, the simpler, the better as far as I'm concerned. I have AC, but it needs to be recharged, I might get to that when it is about 105 out, other than that I like the windows down, or sail windows cracked open. I dislike ABS on most cars, I know how to threshold brake very well, and honestly the systems on my old toyotas and even up to my 97 4runner were marginal at best. I kept it engaged on the 96 and 97 4runners, disabled it on the truck and tacoma. I dont mind manual windows and locks, I have enough trouble keeping the one power window and one power lock in my 4runner operating properly (rear tailgate). I wouldnt take another power sucking automatic if it was given to me, especially on something with as little power as a 22r. As far as the carb...I'm on the fence, I like being able to tweak it manually, and I know a fair amount about it now (by necessity), but given the opportunity I think I would go with EFI as well, it is purely idiot proof.

I just wanted to look through this list that you posted up. Some of it I would consider general maintenance just like oil changes. Like others have said all thing wear out it is just getting them logged when they were last changed and get a good rotation of fixing them as they come up.

True, only one I can contest is a seized caliper.
 

cruiseroutfit

Supporting Sponsor: Cruiser Outfitters
I like em' old...

I just spent 10 days traveling around central and southern Utah and living out of my 72' FJ40. No radio, no AC, lap-belts. Following behind on any given day were a couple dozen brave souls, I kept telling them "if you can't keep up with an old carburated FJ40 then something is wrong" ;)
 

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