Yea, the Samlex instructions are a bit goofy.
You connect both batteries to the big terminals and a ground to the "minus" terminal (don't forget a 1a fuse in the ground).
That's it and it works on auto.
Optional is the switch control. That goes to the "status" terminal. If you connect the status terminal to hot, it forces the unit to stay on, if you connect the status terminal to ground, it forces it to stay off. You can do that with a single-pole double-throw (center off) switch.
Run the status to the center of the switch, and run the top of the switch to hot, the bottom to ground. In the center position, the ACR will be on auto, with switch up it's forced on, and switch down forced off.
Then you can also add an LED. Connect one lead from the LED to hot, and one to the LED terminal on the ACR. Whenever the ACR solenoid is energized, the LED will be lit up.
My battery is arriving on Monday. I decided to go with a LifeLine 80 ah sealed AGM battery as I want it inside my van. It cost 2x the price of a flooded lead acid battery. I am hopeful that it will last longer. Similar Optima batteries were close in price, but the reviews were less than stellar. Costco has flooded group 24 batteries for about $90 including the core.
Ford has battery boxes that mount on the frame and it was going to cost about the same as having the battery inside my van.
I need some
assistance in making all the connections as I am not an electrician or mechanic.
What gauge wire should I use and where should I get it? I have no idea how to connect the first red wire to the battery. Can someone send links to eBay or Amazon for the correct parts? I can comp a 6 pack of beer or a few cups of coffee for the best solution through PayPal. This is not in lieu of payment. Rather, a show of gratitude.
DWH here on the Expedition Portal suggested the
Samplex ACR. The local stereo shop installs PAC isolator for $90/hour. I found it for
PAC for $38 on Amazon. Stereo shop charges $85. They want $400 for the install. DWH says I can easily do it myself.
Can someone suggest automotive circuit breakers? I figure it's probably easier in the long run rather than carrying spare fuses that get lost.
I want to connect the RV battery to an RV battery box with four 12 volt plugs and a quick connect for future solar. Should I drill holes and add the 12 volt plug or buy a box with all the outlets? I am looking at
QuickBox sold on Amazon.
If I can do this all myself, I may as well add solar. Anyone suggest a budget friendly 80-100W solar panel and charge controller that can plug right into the battery box via quick connect?
Oh, one final note-I have an old electrical wire repair kit from 1985. What tools should I buy? I want to do everything solderless.
I want to thank everyone in advance especially DWH.
I know all the answers are located somewhere in this forum. I leave for Canada in 17 days and have to get this installed. My wife is taking care of her father out of the country and arrives on June 19. I promised to install over head lights for her in our living room earlier this winter, as well as the dual battery install My repair buddy showed up last night and we cut and drilled holes for everything. We help each other out on repairs. I am the guy who hands the tools and he has all the brains! He does not have time for the dual battery. We were busy all winter remodeling his kitchen and we are out of time. It's crunch time! Between his 9 kids and my 2 boys, we have a circus going on! Ever try to rip out a kitchen with 11 kids? We take our vans to his workshop for automotive repair as it's too dangerous.