How to plug holes in my truck's roof?

[adrenaline503]

So, I am thinking of removing the roof rack from my Nissan Frontier. I never use it and have never been a fan of the look. So if I were to remove it there would be 16 holes in my roof. I imagine the preferred method would be to remove the head liner, weld the holes shut, sand them flush then prime and paint. What a PITA. Does someone make a weathertight plug that I could use? I think I remember seeing a bolt like object that had a rounded head (like a carriage bolt) that had a crush washer set into the thread side of the head. When you tightened it the washer crushed, making a seal. I think the plates in my roof that the rack mount into are tack welded, so if I were to find a bolt like this then I could just thread them in and be done with it. Does this make any sense at all?

 

[Hltoppr]

For the factory roof rack holes on my FJ80, which had nutserts to hold it on, I used stainless steel round hex head bolts, with a dab of clear silicon underneath them.

Worked great!

You might want to check out the fasteners at www.mcmaster.com They have absolutely everything....

-H-

 

[adrenaline503]

Sweet. How long have they been the keeping the water out? The only problem is that is WAY to simple of a solution for me. I need something VERY complicted and expensive

 

[Hltoppr]

Never leaked in the year and a half I owned the truck with 'em like that....

-H-

 

[adrenaline503]

I also found these in case there arent threaded plates as I suspect:

http://www.cardinalcomponents.com/plusnut.htm

 

[MattScott]

I wouldnt trust a crush seal with my headliner, Go to ACE Hardware, they have plugs in every size. Dab of silicone, and your're ready to go.

 

[BKCowGod]

I just had to deal with this in the Beast.

My method has worked so far:

 

[adrenaline503]

Would you recommend a plastic plug? Or are you referring to something else?

I wouldnt trust a crush seal with my headliner, Go to ACE Hardware, they have plugs in every size. Dab of silicone, and your're ready to go.

 

[adrenaline503]

There is always that option

I just had to deal with this in the Beast.

My method has worked so far:

 

[MattScott]

I think a plastic plug, properly siliconed, would be more factory looking, and flush with your rooflines. Big bolts would just look awkward, however they would probally be more durable.

 

[ntsqd]

Bottom of page 3214 at Mcmaster.com has rubber well nuts. Tightening down a screw forms a seal. Might want, as suggested above, a little sealant in the threads but do not use lock-tite.


http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/114/3214

 

[adrenaline503]

Quite true. Up in the arctic where I work silicone fails all the time, perhaps I do not have the required faith. I do however agree that plastic plugs would look way better.

I think a plastic plug, properly siliconed, would be more factory looking, and flush with your rooflines. Big bolts would just look awkward, however they would probally be more durable.

 

[adrenaline503]

Good find. Sheesh, that McMaster website is overwhelming. At least I have quite a few options now.

Bottom of page 3214 at Mcmaster.com has rubber well nuts. Tightening down a screw forms a seal. Might want, as suggested above, a little sealant in the threads but do not use lock-tite.


http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/114/3214

 

[HanzoSteel]

I think if you use the inserts that expand you may get some funky creases or some warp on your roof, just something to think about.

 

[adrenaline503]

Hmmm, maybe. I have walked around on my roof rack before the roof didnt seem to flex. But maybe the smaller surface area of an insert would warp and crease the roof? Does anyone have any experience or input?

I think if you use the inserts that expand you may get some funky creases or some warp on your roof, just something to think about.