I decided to build my own Pop Top camper

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Last November I started to plan out a custom built pop top camper. In January I started the build. The following is a collection of pictures and thoughts of my build.

So I do not know how to weld very well and I certainly don't know how to weld aluminum. So I decided to do my build with 80/20 aluminum and use an internal style fastener.

I am using 3mm ACM as my siding and roofing and that is because that was the largest single sheet that I could find. It is also already painted on both sides and has so far worked out pretty great.

I did end up rebuilding the frame twice because I was having significant flexing issues on the cab-over portion. I rebuilt the roof frame once due to the same flexing issues.

I used 1" 80/20 and I would recommend using 1.5" or maybe even 2". I could have potentially used less material using the larger series of framing.

I attached the siding with a double sided acrylic tape that is rated at 15lbs/in and waterproof. The only screws that I am using are to hold the canvas to the roof and frame.

Lots of people have been wandering where I am at pricing. I have done a price to the point where the camper is usable with no interior.
Frame - $3400 with at least $600-700 being a part of the Research and Development. I would say that I could rebuild this frame with what i've learned for about $2500.
Siding - 4 sheets of 5'x10' 3mm Aluminum Composite Material (ACM) $450
Door - This was the most expensive single item at $1146. It is a Tern Overland Wildlands Door
Probably $200 in tape and another $1000 in miscellaneous items needed to build the camper.
Tools and consumables I am at about $1000, but I wouldn't count this toward my build. This included tools I didn't have already.

I weighed the camper when it was just the body and siding and it weighed about 250lbs. I would say with canvas and roof that I am under 300lbs currently.

 

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A view of my 'shop' loaded out with some of the 80/20

 

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Started the frame build. Just doing the outside to see what and how much I need to strengthen it up. At this point the camper is 62" wide.

 

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To attach it to the truck I replaced the factory bed rails with unistrut. I then purchased some Tacoma canopy clamps and modified them to fit into the channel of the 80/20. This is only the first rendition.

 

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I then started to add in the filler pieces that will strengthen up the camper. It was also at this point that I realized that a 1" tall main support from front to rear was not strong enough.

 

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So I decided to see what the view was like and contemplate life decisions that lead me here to building my own camper and then having to rebuild it again.

When the 1" main rail didn't support the weight at the front i decided to try 2" tall main rail with supports which also didn't fully support the weight. At this point I realized I only have one option left and that is the 3" tall piece. Once I had that installed I did some experimenting and learned that I did not need the 45 degree support pieces on the front which made mounting the siding way easier.

 

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At some point while waiting on the new 3' tall main support rail I decided to start building the roof frame. My wants is two fans and two solar panels.

 

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Luckily I work in a high rise building as an engineer so I have access to awesomely large storage rooms to work in. Like I said in the first post I am using 3mm Aluminum Composite Material (ACM). It is being attached with double sided tape. I was skeptical at first, but it seems to be holding very strongly.

 

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After all the siding was on I decided to weigh the camper and it weighs in at a svelte 165lbs.

 

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I used 1" Aluminum angle to cover all the edges. I placed 2" wide double sided tape to cover the edges and then placed the angle aluminum and trimmed the excess tape. Around all the edges I used a doors and windows sealant.

 

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Some closeups for your viewing pleasure.

 

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I decided to go the EMT conduit route for the lifting mechanisms. Since this photo the entire height from frame to roof has been lowered 2.5" and I realized that there was some unacceptable flexing in the roof frame. I ended up using 2" tall rails on the exterior and 2 that span across the roof towards the middle.

 

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I built the bed frame portion that pulls out and decided to see how the mattress fits. I also wanted to know how the roof shut with mattress left in the bed area.

 

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I went super simple with the canvas. I made a flap with Velcro for a liner and I have no windows. I decided not to do windows simply because my sewing machine cannot handle that much material. I will at a later date have one made up with windows.

 

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With the roof frame rebuilt and the lift mechanisms lowered its looking a lot better and there is far less flexing when I pull on the sides and middle of the roof.