i'm missing a very large part...

PKG P38

PKG P38

Observer
galen216 said:
Yep, drove my RRC with a frozen Borg Warner and no front driveshaft till I replaced with an LT-230.

Why did they take out the rear versus the front?
Click to expand...

no idea on this one, i'll find out once i get the driveshaft in. i have a replacement coming next week. good thing there are plenty of P38s in surrounding cities and parts are usually cheap.

MatthewThompson said:
...so you bought a vehicle without even looking underneath it?
Click to expand...

i did to check for a coil conversion on the suspension but never looked at the shafts. it was in a bit of snow at the time and wouldn't start to move it.

even with this problem, its still a good deal overall for what i paid for it.
 
PKG P38

PKG P38

Observer
got the no-start issue fixed with a new fuel filter tonight and my buddy and i did some tinkering with the transfer case and the rear diff.

rear diff is good and hasn't been tampered with and the transfer case seems to be working properly. held the brakes and gave it a little gas to move it forward and it did transfer more power to the rear and turned the drum. course that doesn't mean it won't growl when under load. going to get the new driveshaft on and see what happens at that point.

if its bad, i'm going to pick up a replacement transfer case on my way to the chicago autoshow next weekend.
 
T

Thor

Observer
Here are the choices I'd assume I'm looking at:

Grenaded T-case, (prolly not) because you've been driving it without noticing a grinder noise.

Frozen in 'locked' position inside the T-case, Viscous Coupling, (prolly) again because you've been able to drive it around and it's a new vehicle to you and may not have a reference of when it feels with both shafts. I'd find a way to test this BEFORE adding a rear drive shaft because if it binds badly enough (remember the PO took it out for some reason) you could cause more breakage in the T-case or rear diff, etc.

Off chance the rear diff popped in some way and it sounds OK if it's not powered with a shaft, or broken axles that again sound OK when dragged along but may sound funky when powered by rear drive shaft.

I'd be on the Viscous Coupling route prolly no need to replace the whole T-case. This used to happen in the 199?-1995 RR Classic too when they lost the manually selectable center diff lock in favor of the more luxurious viscous coupling. I.e. why you can choose between High and N and Low with your transfer case stick.

I've heard or read all these rumors before... good luck... and great trucks you've picked up!
 
ipgregory

ipgregory

Adventurer
Another possibility is that it got towed somewhere and they removed the shaft to tow it.

Didn't you say there was a problem with it when you bought it? If it got towed somewhere because it was not running. maybe they never put the shaft back on and just lost or forgot about it?

Be cool if it was that simple wouldn't it?
 
T

Thor

Observer
ipgregory said:
Another possibility is that it got towed somewhere and they removed the shaft to tow it.

Didn't you say there was a problem with it when you bought it? If it got towed somewhere because it was not running. maybe they never put the shaft back on and just lost or forgot about it?

Be cool if it was that simple wouldn't it?
Click to expand...

could be... but I don't think the VC would make the car go, all the power would just spin the path of least resistance, i.e. the rear coupling at the back of the t-case where the driveshaft connects.
 
PKG P38

PKG P38

Observer
Thor said:
Here are the choices I'd assume I'm looking at:

Grenaded T-case, (prolly not) because you've been driving it without noticing a grinder noise.

Frozen in 'locked' position inside the T-case, Viscous Coupling, (prolly) again because you've been able to drive it around and it's a new vehicle to you and may not have a reference of when it feels with both shafts. I'd find a way to test this BEFORE adding a rear drive shaft because if it binds badly enough (remember the PO took it out for some reason) you could cause more breakage in the T-case or rear diff, etc.

Off chance the rear diff popped in some way and it sounds OK if it's not powered with a shaft, or broken axles that again sound OK when dragged along but may sound funky when powered by rear drive shaft.

I'd be on the Viscous Coupling route prolly no need to replace the whole T-case. This used to happen in the 199?-1995 RR Classic too when they lost the manually selectable center diff lock in favor of the more luxurious viscous coupling. I.e. why you can choose between High and N and Low with your transfer case stick.

I've heard or read all these rumors before... good luck... and great trucks you've picked up!
Click to expand...

the coupling could very well be the problem -- i'd much rather do that than replace the whole case. i'll know a lot more once i have some more time to dig into it tonight and later this week.

i've only driven the vehicle once just a few blocks so at least since i've had it, it hasn't been driven in this mode for very long. honestly based on what i've seen with this vehicle since i got it, i don't think the previous owner ever even had a chance to drive it. i think he bought it, discovered what it needed and dumped it right away.

so for now, stay tuned :)
 
PKG P38

PKG P38

Observer
this wasn't suppose to be there...

2011-02-13212300.jpg


that is NOT the correct place OR the right thermostat. *sigh*

this guy was a ****in idiot that should have NEVER have been allowed to touch a vehicle. the thermostat on these is in a canister on the lower radiator hose. so essentially what he's done here is create a block in the system preventing coolant from circulating at all. took that damn thing out and replaced the CORRECT unit and got the system flowing again.

but now, its still having a massive over heating issue. looking like the head is shot. IF he had the head gasket done like he said he did, it would not surpass me if they used gasket maker to "create" a new one. we're going to end up tearing this thing down to get it healthy again, its just not happy at all and someone really ****ed it up that should have never touched it in the first place.

so for now until i have some room to get it into my shop (currently remodeling) its going to have to be put on the back burner for now most likely. i'm still not upset with my purchase however...sometimes this is how you get things cheap.
 
T

Thor

Observer
Sorry man, I was pulling for you!

My G wagen experiment got expensive to redo the right way, I'd thought of a P38 RR also.... a rough time to gamble eh?
 
getlost4x4

getlost4x4

Expedition Leader
Mine was screwed up when i got mine as well. I've fixed all the previous idiots so called repairs.

Good luck
 
PKG P38

PKG P38

Observer
getlost4x4 said:
Mine was screwed up when i got mine as well. I've fixed all the previous idiots so called repairs.

Good luck
Click to expand...

well like i said, sometimes this is why we get things cheap.

that said though, me and my buddy have never turned down a project and there's nothing that we can't accomplish as a team. so no matter what it takes, we will get this thing back to the level that it needs to be at some point. and we've become increasingly efficient at the rate we get projects like this back on the road :)

where as most people would consider it a lost cause and move on, we see a prime opportunity!
 
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