owlxxx
Observer
http://www.superbrightleds.com/products/led-vehicle-replacement-bulbs/220,221/ here are some led ones so you would only hopefully have to do it once.
ImNoSaint's H3 Build
- Thread starter Imnosaint
- Start date
Imnosaint
Gone Microcamping
Thank you.
Imnosaint
Gone Microcamping
Blue Sea ST Blade Addition
The H3 got a Blue Sea fuse block added to provide six extra circuits for powered accessories such as the Hella 700ff lamps, a CB, and rear work lamps. Blue Sea Systems makes a variety of marine and automotive application 12v fuse blocks. The ST Blade box comes in 6 and 12 circuits with or without a negative bus. I won't be adding many accessories so I opted for the six circuit ST Blade with the negative bus to make grounding something I won't have to troubleshoot.
The ST Blade is mounted to the top of H3's battery box cover between the battery posts. It's powered from the positive post with a 6AWG wire that terminates to a Scorpion 100A breaker with a jump cable made from the same wire to the fuse block. The breaker was mounted in the recess next to the battery box vent to allow clearance for the fuse box cover below to be removed.
A 6AWG Duralast battery cable grounds the ST Blade to the H3's chassis.
The Hella 700ff lamps need a power supply for the relay (red) along with power for the switch (green). The relay is fused at 15A to handle the 55 watts of the lamps and the switch at 2A. The two grounds (black) are from the lamps on the left and the switch on the right. The relay (not pictured) has its own ground.
This will simplify the addition of other accessories and keep wires tidy under the hood.
The switch for the Hellas was mounted on the small recessed panel behind the gear selector on the console.
The H3 got a Blue Sea fuse block added to provide six extra circuits for powered accessories such as the Hella 700ff lamps, a CB, and rear work lamps. Blue Sea Systems makes a variety of marine and automotive application 12v fuse blocks. The ST Blade box comes in 6 and 12 circuits with or without a negative bus. I won't be adding many accessories so I opted for the six circuit ST Blade with the negative bus to make grounding something I won't have to troubleshoot.
The ST Blade is mounted to the top of H3's battery box cover between the battery posts. It's powered from the positive post with a 6AWG wire that terminates to a Scorpion 100A breaker with a jump cable made from the same wire to the fuse block. The breaker was mounted in the recess next to the battery box vent to allow clearance for the fuse box cover below to be removed.
A 6AWG Duralast battery cable grounds the ST Blade to the H3's chassis.
The Hella 700ff lamps need a power supply for the relay (red) along with power for the switch (green). The relay is fused at 15A to handle the 55 watts of the lamps and the switch at 2A. The two grounds (black) are from the lamps on the left and the switch on the right. The relay (not pictured) has its own ground.
This will simplify the addition of other accessories and keep wires tidy under the hood.
The switch for the Hellas was mounted on the small recessed panel behind the gear selector on the console.
Imnosaint
Gone Microcamping
Recovery - Hi-Lift Jack and Shovel Mount
Switching to the H3 from a Gen III Montero has been a considerable exercise in scaling down as far as storage goes. The H3 has 25 cubic feet where the Montero had over 43 cubic feet that included an under-floor cubby that was ideal for recovery gear.
I added a Garvin Sport roof rack to provide a place to mount a Hi-Lift jack and a shovel along with a pair of traction devices and a low profile weather-proof box to stow straps, a Lift-Mate and other recovery gear. The treads and box have yet to be determined.
The jack and shovel have been mounted using Quick Fist clamps. The jack mount uses the same concept found on the Montero with a 3/8 bolt that protrudes through the steel bar and a stainless steel wing nut to secure it.
Switching to the H3 from a Gen III Montero has been a considerable exercise in scaling down as far as storage goes. The H3 has 25 cubic feet where the Montero had over 43 cubic feet that included an under-floor cubby that was ideal for recovery gear.
I added a Garvin Sport roof rack to provide a place to mount a Hi-Lift jack and a shovel along with a pair of traction devices and a low profile weather-proof box to stow straps, a Lift-Mate and other recovery gear. The treads and box have yet to be determined.
The jack and shovel have been mounted using Quick Fist clamps. The jack mount uses the same concept found on the Montero with a 3/8 bolt that protrudes through the steel bar and a stainless steel wing nut to secure it.
superbuickguy
Explorer
Nice build up on your rig, I have an alpha I use for SAR and Overlanding.... your question about the lights....
instructions on how to fix the lights in the A/C controls is on the first page.
http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?5816-Search-and-Rescue-H3-Alpha-build
instructions on how to fix the lights in the A/C controls is on the first page.
http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?5816-Search-and-Rescue-H3-Alpha-build
Imnosaint
Gone Microcamping
Thank you. I've read your build thread before and have been inspired and instructed by your posts. (Is that a Fiat Spider 2000 in your garage?)
superbuickguy
Explorer
It's a Fiat 124 with a couple modifications. I changed the running gear to Mustang 2. I replaced the motor and trans with a motor from a 2006 Cadillac CTS and 6 speed. I then added turbos. I expect it to be a sub 2000 lb, 500 hp go kart. I'm building it for my wife.
Imnosaint
Gone Microcamping
! She's a lucky girl. Squeeze that behind the seat of an X1/9 and you'd have a mid-engined go cart.
Imnosaint
Gone Microcamping
PCM Retune by PCM of NC
Even though the H3's I5 produces a bit more power than the Montero's V6, it's sluggish at best with low RPM shifts with flat torque curves. I researched a number of mechanical mods to improve this (within my budget) and found that the most common - air intake upgrades, headers - yielded little change in performance and fuel efficiency.
Enter PCM of North Carolina; they flash and reprogram the factory PCM (power-train control module) promising better throttle response and fuel efficiency, better shift points making better use of the torque curve, and more horsepower.
Sounds too good to be true, but having lived in North Carolina, it's been my experience to have never been disappointed with anything that comes from that state. So I made the order.
I opted for their loaner program where they send a unit to replace the factory PCM while it's sent back to NC for the tune. While their instructions are pretty specific on how to remove the PCM, GM's design of its plug interfaces isn't all that intuitive, so what follows is a bit more detail on its removal:
The PCM is located on the engine firewall on the passenger side behind the coolant and window washer reservoirs.
Looking from above the PCM's cooling ribs you can see the three plugs that connect to it. To disconnect the plugs, remove the red strap on each by pulling it up. It will detach fairly easily.
From a side angle of the PCM you can see the grey ribbed band that surrounds the plug. This band acts like a lever. With some coaxing, lift it up and over the plug.
The plug is engineered so that this lever mechanism unlocks a series of cleats that lock the plug into the PCM. Dust and dirt in the mechanism will make this difficult risking breaking the plastic lever, so it's not a bad idea to blow it out with compressed air. Once the level is lifted all the way up, two red tabs appear at the top if the plug indicating that the cleats are clear and the plug can be removed.
If these red tabs are not in the position shown above, the grey lever hasn't been completely deployed.
With the plug removed, the cleats can be seen.
The PCM is held in place by a bracket. It has two tabs on top that hold it place.
f during the removal of the plugs the PCM becomes free of the bracket like this,
...the plugs will not have the necessary resistance from the PCM module to be removed, so make sure the module stays locked in while removing the plugs.
If the tuned PCM is anything like the loaner, the reprogram is very significant. I'll be sure to let you know.
Even though the H3's I5 produces a bit more power than the Montero's V6, it's sluggish at best with low RPM shifts with flat torque curves. I researched a number of mechanical mods to improve this (within my budget) and found that the most common - air intake upgrades, headers - yielded little change in performance and fuel efficiency.
Enter PCM of North Carolina; they flash and reprogram the factory PCM (power-train control module) promising better throttle response and fuel efficiency, better shift points making better use of the torque curve, and more horsepower.
Sounds too good to be true, but having lived in North Carolina, it's been my experience to have never been disappointed with anything that comes from that state. So I made the order.
I opted for their loaner program where they send a unit to replace the factory PCM while it's sent back to NC for the tune. While their instructions are pretty specific on how to remove the PCM, GM's design of its plug interfaces isn't all that intuitive, so what follows is a bit more detail on its removal:
The PCM is located on the engine firewall on the passenger side behind the coolant and window washer reservoirs.
Looking from above the PCM's cooling ribs you can see the three plugs that connect to it. To disconnect the plugs, remove the red strap on each by pulling it up. It will detach fairly easily.
From a side angle of the PCM you can see the grey ribbed band that surrounds the plug. This band acts like a lever. With some coaxing, lift it up and over the plug.
The plug is engineered so that this lever mechanism unlocks a series of cleats that lock the plug into the PCM. Dust and dirt in the mechanism will make this difficult risking breaking the plastic lever, so it's not a bad idea to blow it out with compressed air. Once the level is lifted all the way up, two red tabs appear at the top if the plug indicating that the cleats are clear and the plug can be removed.
If these red tabs are not in the position shown above, the grey lever hasn't been completely deployed.
With the plug removed, the cleats can be seen.
The PCM is held in place by a bracket. It has two tabs on top that hold it place.
f during the removal of the plugs the PCM becomes free of the bracket like this,
...the plugs will not have the necessary resistance from the PCM module to be removed, so make sure the module stays locked in while removing the plugs.
If the tuned PCM is anything like the loaner, the reprogram is very significant. I'll be sure to let you know.
superbuickguy
Explorer
long story, shortened considerably, I had access to an X1/9 and considered just that mod - but that engine bay is just too small. As it is, I moved the firewall back 12" to fit the motor, turbos, intercoolers and to make it better balanced.
PCM of NC has done tunes for lots of us on H4O forum - and the results have been okay to super depending on the application. I got about .5 mpg better economy, better throttle response, and better shifting from their tune - but I hamstringed them because I refuse to burn super unleaded. With that said, when the exhaust manifold breaks - replace it with a long-tube header. With that said, their customer service should be the standard for everyone - they are excellent when it comes to issues or if you need to change the tune because of mods.
But, you are driving a rig that weighs nearly 6000 lbs fully loaded - so performance is kind of a relative thing. I had a 07 H3 and now I have an 08 Alpha - and honestly, in a drag race neither are impressive and the 07 would keep up with the 08. However, when you're climbing hills fully loaded, you'd only briefly see my tail lights as I disappear into the distance (but you'd catch me at the gas station since highway mpg is 14...)
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Imnosaint
Gone Microcamping
I've loved that platform back in the day before the interweb and looked at a number of replacements, like a Buick V6 turbo, or Alfa's 164. Nothing ever realized though. Then I turned my attention to 914s.
I built a number of Alfas, X1/9s and two 124s (sorry, I should've noticed that in your inventory on your signature) sticking to stock DOHCs. You've done an incredible amount of fabrication. Is there a build thread? Love to see it. Despite FIAT mechanicals, hard to resist Pininfarina.
I take some comfort in this. After buying the H3 I've had a battle of buyer's remorse due to its power issues. As for high octane, I grew up with my Dad's '70 Buick Wildcat. We lived in Montreal at the time, harsh, bitter-cold winters that "required" him to warm up that beast in our garage for twenty minutes before he drove into the city. High octane was its staple and after the car left the garage and the door closed I'd go out into the exhaust-infused air and breathe it in. Properly burned leaded 101. Nothing has ever smelled so good since.
That might explain a few things.
superbuickguy
Explorer
still on the top of google CTS Spider
http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum/bangshift/project-cars-update/29121-cts-spider
I have cars that get good economy and others that are just good at whatever I built them for (this, of course, is my story - some of my less-popular friends have other stories; but no matter :victory
Imnosaint
Gone Microcamping
Tactical Case and TREDs
Bolted onto the roof rack adjacent the shovel and Hi-Lift is a Plano 42" weather-proof locking tactical case that holds a Lift-Mate, a snatch strap, tools and other recovery items. I've come to appreciate the Garvin rack's ability to adapt to load needs with its adjustable cross-members. Along side the case is a pair of TREDs that are locked to the rack with a 6' cable lock by Master Lock.
Bolted onto the roof rack adjacent the shovel and Hi-Lift is a Plano 42" weather-proof locking tactical case that holds a Lift-Mate, a snatch strap, tools and other recovery items. I've come to appreciate the Garvin rack's ability to adapt to load needs with its adjustable cross-members. Along side the case is a pair of TREDs that are locked to the rack with a 6' cable lock by Master Lock.