Inexpensive Lighting Options.

[beast1210]

Exactly what I did and have been using for 2 years (here's my write-up) - they definately throw some light down the road

the 4509 only has a 25hr life, there is a number of company's doing LED. But that goes out of "inexpensive". Look for PAR36 lights. 500 lumens

http://www.stolztelecom.com/p36slc-par-36-12-24-vdc-replacement.html

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/whelenpar362.php

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/whelenpar363.php

http://www.whelen.com/_AUTOMOTIVE/details_prod.php?head_id=12&cat_id=74&prod_id=469#

video from Whelen
http://www.whelen.com/_AVIATION/media/parmetheus/parmetheus.html

 

[mustangwarrior]

what about these lights from harbor freight?

http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/accessory-lights/clear-lens-halogen-lights-37349.html

we have similar lights on the mowers at work, when pointed up one will shine about 75 yards out and when i walk in front theres about a 45ft shadow on the trees, any one used them on their vehicles?

 

[GTABurnout]

I finally got a light bar so I am looking for a cheap bright set up. So far I think I will be running some Ebay KC style lights with HID conversions.

 

[Life_in_4Lo]

To me there's no excuse to ever wire a light without a relay. I cringe when I see people run full power through an in-cab toggle switch.

BTW, standard Bosch type relays only cost a buck or two (if you have to buy them), so I don't see that it would raise the price much at all

If your switch is rated for the amps, why do you need a relay?
relays add up, add wiring, connections, take up a lot of space in tight areas...

I run relays but I also have some 20a switches and just run clean for some of my low draw items.
As long as the draw is less than the wire gauge and switch rating, I don't see a problem?

 

[off-roader]

If your switch is rated for the amps, why do you need a relay?

You'll find out if that switch ever malfunctions or your wires ever get abraded through to the conductor.:Wow1::ylsmoke:

Seriously, I've been taught to do it from a safety POV.

 

[Warn Industries]

Looking in the quadratec mag today I saw some warn wireless lights for about $170.00 has; anyone heard if the wireless system works.

If you've got any questions about the WARN lights, feel free to ask (or PM if you want).

- Andy

 

[corax]

If your switch is rated for the amps, why do you need a relay?

You'll find out if that switch ever malfunctions or your wires ever get abraded through to the conductor.:Wow1::ylsmoke:

Seriously, I've been taught to do it from a safety POV.

Safety and installation flexibility. As a bonus, if the in-cab switch or relay fails I can still power the device with a simple jumper wire at the relay connector. Plus the extra run of thicker gauge wire required to run straight off the switch and the voltage drop (loss) you get through that type of set-up. I prefer one low amp fuse for all the switches with a thin gauge wire bundle between the cab and the underhood relays (less intrusive) and a short run from the battery-relay-device.

 

[off-roader]

Plus the extra run of thicker gauge wire required to run straight off the switch and the voltage drop (loss) you get through that type of set-up.

In addition to the safety factor, this is another good point. With a relay, you can run the thin low wattage (18G) wire into the cab instead of large high wattage (14G) wire. Will definitely make a bear of an install a much easier one.