Inner hub seal orientation

[Crookthumb]

Which one is preferred?

The Sealey

or the one SCROVER sells

http://sealeytools.co.uk

http://www.landroverstuff.com/tools.htm

 

[SeaRubi]

Which one is preferred?

The Sealey

or the one SCROVER sells

http://sealeytools.co.uk

http://www.landroverstuff.com/tools.htm

I prefer the larger non-socket type, personally, for the nice screw-driver size holes cut in the barrel. It's also easier to handle with bare hands to wind the nut back off.

my .02

 

[Mike_rupp]

Well, I'll take the other side. I like the Sealey. It weighs more and definitely costs more, but I like the feel of a real socket. When I initially set the preload, I really torque the nut down to set the races in place and then back off to set the preload. I'm not sure how well the other tool would do in that regard.

As I already mentioned, it also works perfectly for driving the seal in. I'd be a little leary of using the other tool because of possibly damaging the seal.

To each his own.

 

[SeaRubi]

Well, I'll take the other side. I like the Sealey. It weighs more and definitely costs more, but I like the feel of a real socket. When I initially set the preload, I really torque the nut down to set the races in place and then back off to set the preload. I'm not sure how well the other tool would do in that regard.

As I already mentioned, it also works perfectly for driving the seal in. I'd be a little leary of using the other tool because of possibly damaging the seal.

To each his own.

well, that is a pretty nifty trick using it as a seal driver. :beer: the bigger socket has a 1/2" receptacle for a socket-driver if you're so inclined. i just use a long phillips screwdriver. setting the preload works the same; just backing off the nut. technically it's in/lbs on the factory spec, isn't it?

cheers
-ike

 

[Mike_rupp]

I can't remember what the recommended torque setting is anymore. I just do it by feel. I crank down pretty hard at first to set the races in place. Then I back off and snug it up until there is no play in the bearings. Then I fasten the lock washer. Then I snug down the second nut pretty tightly which tightens up the bearings just a bit more and fold the washer over.

After 5 miles or so I double check the preloaded again just in case something loosens up, which has happened.

 

[Antichrist]

I prefer the larger non-socket type, personally, for the nice screw-driver size holes cut in the barrel. It's also easier to handle with bare hands to wind the nut back off.

That's what I've been using for about 35 years, seems to work well enough. And doesn't add much weight to the tool box.

technically it's in/lbs on the factory spec, isn't it?

Rover gives a torque, but also an end float (tiny, but measurable), which is what I use.
I run the inner nut tight, while rotating the hub, until I can't rotate the hub anymore. Back it off and repeat a couple of times, then back off until I have a little end float. Tighten down the outer nut and that takes out all but the tinniest amount of end float, about .010mm which is what Rover calls for.

 

[sven]

Another good seal-driving tool is the drive flange. The backside of it has a small raised portion that drives the seal in to the correct depth. Its like LR planned it to work like that.

 

[Antichrist]

Another good seal-driving tool is the drive flange. The backside of it has a small raised portion that drives the seal in to the correct depth. Its like LR planned it to work like that.

See post 14

 

[chirigringo]

It turned out all four of the seals were installed backwards. The previous owner of my truck had all his work done at the dealership, too. Makes me feel all that much better about learning to do the work properly myself. Thanks everyone for chiming in and helping me get this job done!
-Michael