Installing a used Warn - can't remove two socket head screws.

[rossvtaylor]

Hi gang,

Sorry to muddy the recovery section with this mundane issue... but, I looked online and no joy...

I've got a used Warn M12000 we're installing on the front of our rig. It came pre-mounted to a bracket which will fit nicely on our frame rail extensions - so, we lucked out there. To make this all easier, I'm trying to remove the winch from the mounting bracket. But, I can't remove two socket (Allen®) head screws on the front, behind the fairlead. They take a 1/4-inch hex wrench and I've already bent a good one. I don't want to bust off a screw. I tried a sharp rap with a hammer, to try busting loose any binding corrosion. Didn't work. I sprayed, where I can, with penetrating lube... but, that didn't work either because (with the sleeves/spacers) I can't get lube into the threads... only the head. Heat might work, but I'm reluctant to torch the winch body.




Am I missing a lock nut or something, hidden, that I'm not seeing? Anyone, who has taken these out, know if there's anything I'm doing wrong or missing?

Although I can leave it all assembled (and will, if I can't remove these two screws), it would sure be easier to handle the bracket alone during the fitting process. It's a bit of a pig...

Thanks much!

 

[v_man]

I'd try a 1/4" Allen socket like this

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-...gclid=CK6XwpSj4s4CFVKFfgodfdAO1w&gclsrc=aw.ds

Use a socket wrench , throw a breaker bar on there if necessary , go slow , you don't want to strip anything . The Allen bolt looks rusted , I'd hit it with a torch as well ....

 

[cruiserpilot]

small propane torch.. and not sure what you're using for penetrating fluid? I use Moovit, soak it around the top of the allen head bolt, heat from the bottom. As
you heat it have a continuous torque on the allen screw with a socket. Not too much, but enough for constant torque on the screw as you heat the base around from
below.

 

[Eaglefreek]

Heat and an impact driver.

 

[verdesardog]

^^ or a cordless impact driver. You might just end up cutting them off and replacing with new hardware...

 

[rossvtaylor]

Thanks all - good suggestions. I am using PB Blaster (the best penetrating lube I've found), but like I said it can't get to the threads because of the sleeve/spacer. The socket head isn't stripped, so I'm getting good torque on it. And, the only way to apply heat (which I'm a big fan of!) would be to torch the painted winch body. You are all on the same page with me... so, like I said, thanks!

Nobody's told me about the secret lock nut on the back... So, I'm not going to risk breaking these off. I'll just replace all the structural bolts and keep this mounted on the bracket during the installation. Verdesardog, you're close enough to come help lift...

Enjoy the day!

 

[luigi1285]

Shake n break. Greatest tool ever!


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[rossvtaylor]

Shake n break. Greatest tool ever!


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Damn! Even if I end up just leaving those bolts in place, the reviews on this tool are pretty impressive. I've never seen this... but thanks to Amazon I've got one on the way now. Thanks much.

 

[RedF]

Cut it. It's seized inside the spacer. Even if you could put enough torque on it - which you can't - you'd likely twist it off. Save yourself the aggravation, use a zip cut on that spacer and replace the bolt and spacer.

 

[maktruk]

Cut it. It's seized inside the spacer. Even if you could put enough torque on it - which you can't - you'd likely twist it off. Save yourself the aggravation, use a zip cut on that spacer and replace the bolt and spacer.

^this^ that spacer is your issue, IMO.
Remove it and that bolt will turn

 

[rayra]

If that spacer isn't welded in, get a pipe wrench on it while you are torquing on the bolt. Turnign in the same direction.

Or just work on getting that spacer spinning freely in relation to the bolt, before even trying the bolt again.

 

[luigi1285]

You will love it lol


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[pugslyyy]

Cut it. It's seized inside the spacer. Even if you could put enough torque on it - which you can't - you'd likely twist it off. Save yourself the aggravation, use a zip cut on that spacer and replace the bolt and spacer.

Yep, cut it and be done with it.

 

[verdesardog]

Thanks all - good suggestions. I am using PB Blaster (the best penetrating lube I've found), but like I said it can't get to the threads because of the sleeve/spacer. The socket head isn't stripped, so I'm getting good torque on it. And, the only way to apply heat (which I'm a big fan of!) would be to torch the painted winch body. You are all on the same page with me... so, like I said, thanks!

Nobody's told me about the secret lock nut on the back... So, I'm not going to risk breaking these off. I'll just replace all the structural bolts and keep this mounted on the bracket during the installation. Verdesardog, you're close enough to come help lift...

Enjoy the day!

Well bring it on down here, I've got all kinds of tools here....

 

[M35A2]

Use heat. A lot of it, concentrated at the base of the spacer.

Use beeswax instead of PB.

Tighten before you unloosen.

As someone said, a Stilson (pipe) wrench simultaneously on the spacer, in the same direction as the hex key.

It will come apart. Reassemble with anti-seize.