Installing a used Warn - can't remove two socket head screws.

[rossvtaylor]

Okay... solved. With cutting.

The spacers, actually, were loose enough to spin with my fingers. In fact, there was enough of a gap that I hardly shortened them at all when I slid my 1/16-inch cutting wheel in there and cut the head off. Now that I can see the threads, I will let them soak in PB Blaster while I'm gone this week. If that doesn't work, I'll try the beeswax... interesting, thanks, I've never heard of that. And, heat of course, now that I can actually get heat where I need it.




The bolt is beefier in diameter than I would have guessed, from the socket head... Looks like 3/8.



So, it's beefy enough to reef on after it soaks for a bit, without fear of busting it off.

Thanks all!

 

[M35A2]

Okay... solved. With cutting.

The spacers, actually, were loose enough to spin with my fingers. In fact, there was enough of a gap that I hardly shortened them at all when I slid my 1/16-inch cutting wheel in there and cut the head off. Now that I can see the threads, I will let them soak in PB Blaster while I'm gone this week. If that doesn't work, I'll try the beeswax... interesting, thanks, I've never heard of that. And, heat of course, now that I can actually get heat where I need it.

View attachment 363737


The bolt is beefier in diameter than I would have guessed, from the socket head... Looks like 3/8.

View attachment 363738

So, it's beefy enough to reef on after it soaks for a bit, without fear of busting it off.

Thanks all!

Good progress. I am not a fan of spray-it-with-PB-and-wait-a-few-days. Too little, too late. Use heat around the base of the bolt. The larger diameter expands faster than the diameter of the bolt. For that reason, do not heat the bolt as higher temp there does not give you as much advantage. Beeswax has long slippery molecules that go in between and it can withstand higher temps without burning. if you have a good pair of vice grips grab the shank before you heat. Still try tightening before loosening. Then wiggle back and forth to break the bond and wiggle more and more until it spins out. They will come out.

 

[proper4wd]

You're in for it now. Those bolts are threaded into captive square nuts inside the winch foot. If you cant get them to unscrew (or if you break one off at the nut) you'll be cutting apart the aluminum winch foot to get it out. At this stage in the game I'd probably cut the shank down quite a bit more to limit how much it twists and absorbs torque, weld a nut on the end, heat it up red hot and hit it with an impact gun.

 

[rossvtaylor]

Ha! In for a penny and all that... That's good info about the captive square nuts in there. I'll be out of state all week, so it'll sit as is (soaking away happily) till the weekend. More to follow then.

 

[proper4wd]

It's the same on all warn winches that I know of - but the problem is that if the square nut has a bolt shank stuck in it which protrudes into the hole, there is no way of getting it out.

(you cant slide the nut out sideways if theres a bolt nub stuck in there)

 

[NatersXJ6]

I'm guessing you will find some evidence of red loc-tite in there. Many people seem to think that the red stuff can sub in for proper torque. These are the same people that replace every bolt with grade 8 because 8 is more than 5. There appropriate times for each, but neither is a fix-all for proper torque.

 

[PPCLI_Jim]

now you've cut them one you could consider cutting them again close to the base then file / grind the bolt flat . from there start drilling after you've used a center punch drill up until the bolt walls disappear or get thin enough that they can be folded out of the way to get the captive nut out:chef:

 

[Warn Industries]

If we can be of any help, don't hesitate to call 800-543-9276 or shoot us a PM here.

- Andy

 

[M35A2]

It's the same on all warn winches that I know of - but the problem is that if the square nut has a bolt shank stuck in it which protrudes into the hole, there is no way of getting it out.

(you cant slide the nut out sideways if theres a bolt nub stuck in there)

Darn, that looks easy. Heat the square nut directly with a torch from the side.

 

[rossvtaylor]

Darn, that looks easy. Heat the square nut directly with a torch from the side.

Agreed! With the winch mounted on the bracket, I couldn't see in there. But now that I'll be able to get in there, with heat, it should work fine. Even if they red LocTited it. Or, worst case, I can drill it out. Either way, I'm no longer worried about causing any damage to the winch body. A good design... but, of course, it's a Warn.

And thanks, Andy, for the offer and support!

 

[rossvtaylor]

This was a bit of a project, but it's done! I was out of state this week, so I didn't get to look at the winch again until yesterday... sadly, no captured square nuts on mine. Might be too old for that design change?



I first tried a vice grip on the shaft of the bolt, but these things were not going to budge for any vice grip violence... so, time to weld on something to grab. Even with these, and a BFW, it was a chore... tighten a bit, loosen a bit, wiggle, wiggle, wiggle... then final, sqeeeeeeek, out they came.



And, here is where she'll live the rest of her days... once the frame extension and mount is done, of course... But here it is, in progress, to give you an idea.



In retrospect, cutting off the bolt heads was the right thing to do. There was no way these were coming out with the socket-head drive. Thanks all, for supporting me through this and for the great suggestions. I wish you were all neighbors!

 

[RedF]

Glad to hear you got it figured out. Getting them to turn even a fraction of a degree is the hardest part. A pipe wrench would have grabbed when a vise-grip slipped.

I myself was wondering if it had the square nuts, or threads directly into the casting. I googled M12000 and some of the pics looked like the castings were threaded.