Installing an LSD or a Locker, what should I be paying?

[ADDvanced]

I've called a few places to install an LSD or a locker, and they're all quoting me $500-600. The cost of the LSD/Locker is ~400-500, so $1000ish.

My truck cost me $1800, and it's great, it's just RWD and open diff. I've tried finding a cleaner one with 4wd for over a year now, with no luck.

What do?

 

[Buliwyf]

That's very fair.

I need to get a quote for 4.56 gears, front and rear, and a Yukon Grizz front locker. I'm expecting more than $2800.

 

[Scoutn79]

The difference in install prices for a locker (unless it an auto like a Detroit) will be more due to extra compenents to install IE cables/air lines/electrical depending on what you want.

If they are "all" quoting about the same price it seems that is what you are going to pay even if it wasn't fair...which I believe it is.

Darrell

 

[plh]

$1000 per axle with parts is cheap

 

[Herbie]

This is where your locker choice makes a big impact. A lunchbox locker that replaces the spider gears can often be done in your driveway without a "setup", so the cost is pretty minimal (close to parts-only). I'm in the midst of having a Powertrax No-Slip installed in the rear of my van. I'm having re-gearing done anyway, so I'm having it done at the axle shop, but I know a couple of people in my club that did the same thing at home in like 3 hours.

An E- or Air-locker, or a limited slip that affects the setup, on the other hand, gets into big labor really quick. I don't have the invoice right here, but I think my axle shop estimates 5 hours for an axle setup, plus add more if there's a lot of work to get the locker in. (ARB requires the air line installation through the case, for example.)

That said, it might be hard to justify either amount for an $1800 truck. Was a locker available from the factory? If I wasn't changing my gearing to non-readily-available ratios, I'd have just been scouring junkyards for one of the factory-equipped limited-slip axle assemblies and called it a day.

 

[GoinBoardin]

I opted for a lunchbox (Aussie) in my old truck. Install was simple. I took my time, probably 4 hours. A pro could do it in half that. It clunks during turns on pavement under light-med throttle, but off road has been superb. I've only had open diffs before and I'm blown away. For the $280 all in (that's buying the locker, shipping, RTV sealant, and gear oil) I'm extremely happy. If the lunchbox is an option for your axle, I'd at least consider it. You aren't going to be railing it in a 2x4 truck on the rocks, so I wouldn't think the strength difference between full case & drop-in would matter for you.

 

[ADDvanced]

Yeah, I am not interesting in an air locker or electric one, too rich for this truck.

I guess I'm up in the air for what I want; I drive this thing in snowy conditions, and from what I understand a lunchbox locker would make the truck fairly unpredictable in snow/rain, as you transition from on throttle to off throttle.

It sounds like I should be getting an LSD, not a locker, right?

 

[knoxswift]

My 2c is LSD for Snowy.
I added a True Trac to my truck.

I also believe the cost quoted is fair.

I'd put in a LSD in an $1800 truck if I plan to keep it for 2 years...

 

[offthepath]

Who cares what the truck cost? I've never understood this statement.

Will your planned use for the truck justify 1000 bucks and a locked rear end? Look at the need and what the intended use is for. If you can afford it and have a need for it, don't worry about what the truck cost or is worth.

BTW, the cost sounds normal.

 

[Happy Joe]

Depending on the vehicle, and your skills significant savings can be had using junk yard components; last year I got a Ford 8,8 for the explorer with factory limited slip and 4.11 gears (took some hunting) for less than $200 (brakes included; would have been cheaper without the brakes). Pulling it myself at the yard was a bit of a hassle but it would have been a drop in (about 12 bolt/nuts and brake lines & cables) if I hadn't put in the ARB air locker.
I got burned, once, from a supposedly reliable local shop so I do all my re-gears myself... (it has always turned out better than the overpriced (supposedly ASE) local shop install did).

Enjoy!

 

[NatersXJ6]

Although I sympathize with the “burned by shop” position, I think it is worth mentioning that a re-gear takes more than just knowledge... it takes relatively precise tools and is much easier when setup bearings are used. The cost of tools is a huge influence on the first one you do.

I agree with buying a junkyard axle if available with a locker. Even if not, buying the axle allows you to take time to inspect and re-gear it yourself then just swap it in once you know you got it right.

 

[Buliwyf]

There's a race car rear end garage near me that'll do mine.

All he does all week long is rear end gear swaps on custom cars and trucks.

 

[Scoutn79]

Although I sympathize with the “burned by shop” position, I think it is worth mentioning that a re-gear takes more than just knowledge... it takes relatively precise tools and is much easier when setup bearings are used. The cost of tools is a huge influence on the first one you do.

I completely agree with this statement. Find a shop that specializes in differentials. Don't go to your local do everything type shop, you wouldn't let them rebuild your engine would you?
Swapping in a lunch box locker is straightforward and can be done by a fairly competent shadetree mechanic. Setting up gears....even if you are only doing the diff and don't have to set-up pinion depth takes a lot of time, patience, special tools and knowledge. A rear end takes a tremendous amount of strain and a improperly set-up gear-set will likely fail at the worst possible time then you get to do it again. Find a good diff shop and pay the money if you don't have the skills/tools required. One other point don't buy offshore junk, pay the money and buy quality components from known companies.....

Darrell

 

[Happy Joe]

Yes; re-gearing axles does take a bit of skill (and, often, lots of patience) along with a few precision tools, some oil paint (from the hobby/art store) and an axle specific shim kit; but it is not rocket science... nothing to be afraid of in there... even the tone rings for antilock brakes have, so far, not been an issue. Mostly its a matter of following procedures and instructions. (Persevere until you get it right).

I, mostly, buy ARB (made off shore) air lockers; they are very strong and well made, in Australia.... I recommend them highly (without reservation).

Enjoy!

 

[Scoutn79]

Yes; re-gearing axles does take a bit of skill (and, often, lots of patience) along with a few precision tools, some oil paint (from the hobby/art store) and an axle specific shim kit; but it is not rocket science... nothing to be afraid of in there... even the tone rings for antilock brakes have, so far, not been an issue. Mostly its a matter of following procedures and instructions. (Persevere until you get it right).

I, mostly, buy ARB (made off shore) air lockers; they are very strong and well made, in Australia.... I recommend them highly (without reservation).

Enjoy!

I should have been more specific. Instead of "off shore" I should have said "off brand". Yes ARB is offshore but definitely not off brand. I have 2 and ARB stands behind their product even when it fails.

Darrell