Into the heart of darkness - El Mirador with NLX

[overlander]

So along the way, Jose tells us that there are 3 meter crocs in the lake in broken English. Due to language barrier, we can't tell if he's joking or not. It takes most of the trip to reach a still to this day non-conclusive answer, but the thought of this possibility becomes background noise in our minds the rest of the trip.

We passed dozens of people oncoming on the road in. With the exception of 2 kids on a bike, Jose seemed to know every single person along the North side of the lake. I'm starting to realize this is characteristic of Guatemala. It's really like rural America, where everybody knows everybody.

We finally reach the very subtle gate of La Lancha. At this point, I'll be honest with you...we're pretty excited.



Another La Lancha uniformed attendent opens the very understated gate to let in our minivan, and as we pull in there's somewhat of a Fantasy Island welcome going on (but no Tatoo. Croc must have got him). The reception desk is on the other side of the small parking area, as is the dining area and bar. All patio style in the open. Now that we're in the equatorial region, walls are clearly optional. We are whisked above the bar to the "lobby" which is more like a 2nd floor loft. There's a gift shop corner and a separate couch area. While they are readying our rooms, we are brought a welcome drink of local fruit blends, and we take in the views.

Loft lobby:


View of dining area from loft lobby:


Not much of a wait until another attendant tells us our rooms are ready and escorts us to them. From the main building, we head down steps and a path. La Lancha is established on a hillside facing the lake, which gives everything a lake view to the south and jungle views in all other directions. Nice choice Mr. Coppola.



This is where we realize that La Lancha is really a small exclusive retreat. The "bungalows" for lack of a better word contain 3 rooms a piece and there's about 5 or 6 of them total. Here's a view of the one I'm staying in.



And one of the walking paths:


deck in front of room:



bedroom:


and bathroom sink:


Pretty nice, hugh? NLX has the perfect trip down. They start with a night in La Lancha and end the final night in La Lancha. What a way to bookend such an enduring and rugged experience.

 

[overlander]

So at this point Bill, Lee and I began to settle into our rooms unpack and take it all in, but it was only about 20 minutes before another attendant came by and told us that "our guests" had arrived. Time to go meet James and Graham.

We headed back up to the bar area where James and Graham were seated. It was great to finally meet them. I had known Graham for sometime through expo as a forum member but never facetoface, and I had only spoken to James over the phone. They ordered up a round of beers for us, and we began to ********-chat. Over the next 30 minutes (3-4 rounds of beer) we quickly learned the pecking order of beers in Guatemala. This is important for those traveling down here because there is a distinct difference in the beers. It's almost like a beer social hierarchy. The beer of choice is Moza! Moza is like a Negro Modelo; like an IPA meets amber. Very nice.



After 2 rounds of Moza, the bartender announced that we had drunk their remaining supply of Moza, so next up (or down) was Gallo! This is a Mexican beer and translates to the "Black cock". At this point, the conversation degenerated for about 15 minutes as you can imagine. Gallo is a lighter plain jain beer like a Michelob.

Strangely enough, I didn't have any pics of Gallo, even though we drank more Gallo (due to availability) then any other beer during the course of this trip. I borrowed this pic from google images:


Then the last beer of this trip that we would learn about and taste days later is the Mexican beer Sol. I'll be honest with you; this beer sux. But we drank the hell out of it as our last resupply on the trip as it was all we could get, and it was good at the time. The jungle lowers your standards...

Another stock google image photo:




Why go into these beers on an overlanding thread? By the end of 10 days in the jungle with NLX, you would realize you could NOT reflect on this trip without thinking about the beers.

 

[overlander]

So about an hour later James and Graham said their goodbyes as they were staying a different lodge down the road, and said they would return for dinner and we would then meet the other tag along guests. At this point it was dark and we couldn't see the NLX Defenders from where we were sitting, as they were cleverly parked behind vegetation although they were only 50 feet away. We'll meet them in the AM.

So off they went and we headed off to our rooms. There was plenty to repack now that the air travel was complete and sorting was needed to get our land configuration done. I'll be doing several gear checks throughout this thread, to discuss gear selections, what worked and what didn't, as well as the equipment chosen by NLX and my observations (as well as their shared experiences) for that equipment. So let's start it off with the first:

GEAR CHECK #01! THE PACKING LIST.

Here is the packing list my crew adopted that we built on from the NLX packing list sent out.

Pre-Trip:
 Passport current
 Vaccinations: Typhoid, Hep A and Tetanus
 Malaria prophylactic.
 Medivac Plus Insurance (international individual). Full duration of trip
 Know your blood type and have a card stating if you are allergic to any medicines for first responders
 If you have ever been a heat casualty, need to know that (heat exhaustion, heat stroke, heat cramps)
 Permethrin clothing treatment complete
 Cell phone International plan or WIFI smart phone setup (skype/facetime/etc.) for you and home
 Share itinerary, NLX website and SPOT tracking weblink to friends/family: http://nolimitx.com/

Packing List
Documentation
 Document protector.
 Driver’s License
 $200 US Cash
 Passport
 Vaccination Record
 Medical Evac Coverage Printout
 E-Ticket printout
 Charter Flight Reservation printout
 Hotel info (first night)
 Neck wallet (optional)
 2nd Wallet (optional - pickpocket throw-away version with a few $’s in it)
 Card with prior heat injury and/or medication allergies

Clothing
 Comfortable camp shoes.
 Waterproof hiking boots.
 7 pair hot weather socks or equivalent.
 4-5 t-shirts
 7-10 x underwear
 Rain Jacket-waterproof.
 4-5 Long sleeve shirts (breathable, moisture wicking and quick dry).
 3-4 Pants (breathable).
 Hat. (rain/sun protection)
 Sunglasses (don’t forget the leash)
 Swim trunks
 Insect repellant. You want at LEAST 30% DEET.

Toiletries/Medications/Hygiene
 Quick dry towel and toiletries.
 toothbrush and paste (checked)
 2-day toiletries supply in carry-on baggage (in case checked baggage is late or lost)
 Laundry bag
 Biodegradable laundry soap.
 Shaving gear
 Allergy and prescription medications.
 Dramamine (in case extended off road travel or charter flight gets to you)
 Contact lens solution (if needed)
 Biodegradable soap
 Moleskin patches

Shelter/Sleep Gear
 Jungle hammock w suspension system
 Camp pillow.

Trail Equipment
 LED area lamp (optional)
 Recovery gloves.
 6x 1 gal Ziplocs.
 Rucksack/daypack. (Large enough for overnight w hammock and sleeping bag.)
 Hydration bag (if not included w rucksack)
 Water purification tablets or means (emergency use only if you get lost)
 Emergency Whistle.
 Binoculars (optional)

Optional Comfort/Entertainment/Electronics
 EXTRA BATTERIES (Razor, headlamp, flashlight, camera other.)
 1x wide mouth bottle. (for utility water (brushing teeth, making flavored water, etc.)
 Travel mug.
 12v–110v Inverter-Plug in type
 Cell Phone w/ Charger
 Camera w/charger and memory card
 Book/magazines
 Headlamp/flashlight (water resistant, at least 60 lumen)


Now couple thoughts.

1. The jungle hammocks were only intended to be used for the dismounted portion of the trip to El Mirador, when we were to leave the vehicles and head out on foot with rucksacks, with mules carrying supplies to camp overnight when reaching El Mirador. There are no vehicles allowed at the El Mirador site (more on that later). NLX supplies the jungle hammocks but I chose to bring mine.
2. Ultimately, you only need 2 pants and maybe 3 shirts. There is opportunity to wash as all nights were at deliberate campsites (varying degress of establishment).
3. After sharing the checklist, Angela informed us that insect head nets were not needed down there. I still brought mine because I found that hard to belive in the jungle at the equator. She was right

 

[overlander]

Back to the story. James and Graham came back that evening and we collected at our dinner table at La Lancha. There we began drinking beer and waiting for our tag along guests on this trip. James tells us that our guests were Karl ("karoja" on Expo) and Byron. Karl is a German expat living in Guatemala and owns the Pinz. For the record, I've never seen a Pinz in person before, so I was excited to check that out. Byron is Karl's friend who is a native Guatemalan who spent most of his adult life in the US and speaks fluent English. Byron owns a 4x4 shop in Guatemala City and is an ARB distributor. They both are also very active members in the 4x4 club of Guatemala. I quickly realize that I know have some very good contacts for any future trips to Central America.

Here's the new cast members of this story taken with my Olympus Stylus (which doesn't do very well at night):

Entire crew with Graham up front (glasses). Everybody knows his face by now, right?



Byron (on left) and James (on right)



And Karl the German!



During the course of the dinner, we all discovered that in addition to expedition travel, we all shared a love of cigars (with the exception of Lee), and we had all brought a healthy travel humidor stock along! What a treat! James and Graham shared their cigars, the smoking lamp was then lit and the air filled with smoke to create the perfect Casablanca effect. It wasn't long before I realized that Graham and James both had maintained incredible ashes, which is a feat with a cigar and a sign of a good cigar! I had developed a flick during my last deployment in Iraq, due to the location of our cigar club on our base in Baghdad and the weekly routine of Iraqi Army CH 47 helicopters flying low overhead and blowing ashes into everyones faces. I spent the rest of this trip trying to lose my flicker.

James and Graham have nice ashes!


Graham showing how to keep a good ash.


James and Graham shared how they had developed a business relationship with a cigar factory in Honduras (or Nicaragua..I can't remember) and were in the process of launching their own brand of cigar. We were all smoking their prototypes this evening and they were excellent! They didn't have a brand or product name, so we referred to them throughout the trip as "no name" cigars. I'm really looking forward to their launch, and there's a good chance the label will have a Land Rover Series on it. Stay tuned.

After cigars it was late, so we called it a night and hit the rack in preparation for an early checkout and departure on the next chapter of our journey.. and to finally meet the remaining cast members of this story; Remus, Romulus and the Pinz....

 

[Yudda]

Wow...incredible. Thank you for all your efforts in documenting the trip.

You haven't even entered the jungle yet and this trip has made my short list.

Thanks

Rob

 

[406to417]

Super awesome. I really wanted to go on this trip.

 

[overlander]

24 Feb 2012- Day 3

Early morning wakeup at 0600. NLX is meeting us for breakfast at the La Lancha restaurant, and we need to be checked out and ready to roll. After a quick repack, there's time for a little "me time" to take in the surrounds visible now in daylight.


Reflecting back on the night before, I was up late trying to finish repacking, and fell asleep to the sound of Howler monkeys and wildlife nearby. If you have not heard the sound of Howler monkeys before, you would be in for a real surprise. Howler monkeys, when they get started, sound like what you would imagine dinosaurs sounded like. I'm not kidding. I have no idea how the Spanish conquistadors didn't say "adios! I'm outta here" the first time they heard that. I faded to sleep with images of the Jurassic Park visitor center in my head.

The morning in beautiful. Was about 70 degF as I walk up to the restaurant. Here's a view on the way looking off to the lake.



I drop off my rucksack and Pelican case at the front desk, and have a seat at the table waiting for Bill and Lee to show up. Coffee? Yes please! Bill and Lee show up moments later and as we are working through our first cup of joe, we hear the parade of diesels approach the front gate. Music to my ears! In comes the remaining cast as promised.

"Remus" - Land Rover 110 station wagon. 200TDI engine, LT77 tranny


"Romulus" - Land Rover 110 Crew Cab. 200TDI engine, LT77 tranny



"The Pinz" - Pinzgauer 6x6. 4 cyl gas and almost unending supply of beer...almost


Can you tell we're excited?


Everyone is in great spirits at this point, and we all have a fantastic Guatemalan breakfast together.

Here's a pic of Byron and Karl in their club regalia and swag which left us (Bill, Lee and I..ok, just me) feeling inadequate and wanting!
http://www.4x4guatemala.org


And James can be seen in this shot. Does his expression say "Been there done that" or what? He knows exactly what we're about to get into later this day, and Bill, Lee and I have no idea..not even a clue.

 

[discotdi]

Very nice. Loving the pics and story. Most exciting news for me is the cigars with Series LR! Sounds great.

 

[PirateMcGee]

MORE

 

[overlander]

Working on it!

24 Feb 2012- Day 3 (continued)

So having finished breakfast, we loaded up and off we went. Plan today was to head from La Lancha Lodge to the Tikal National Reserve Park, home to the world famous Tikal site. We'll have lunch there, then head North in the park to the town of Uaxactu'n to check in with the park coordinator for the mules we need to make Mirador (more on that later) then head on to the first campsight at Dos Lagunas.

From here on out I'll be using these map images. Black will be past track. Blue will be next planned leg.


Main roads up here are in great shape around the perimeter of Lago Peten and as we turn the East end of the lake before turning North for Tikal, we make first stop for provisions. Provisions in NLX means diesel and beer...



Also my first chance to check out the Pinz!


And this shot is an image that will be repeated throughout the remainder of the trip..or at least most of it. Everyone should overland with a bartender...

 

[overlander]

Now that we're loaded up, off we go to Tikal. Not too long (maybe 30 min) we arrive at the Tikal park main entrance. Now let me say this. Throughout Guatemala one will encounter many military checkpoints. This is a good thing. These checkpoints have 4-6 soldiers, all looking to be in their teens-early 20's, and they don't really do much more than wave as we pass through, although some of them can look quite serious. I say it's a good thing because they keep the area under control and whatever issues with traffickiing exist are kept covert from the main roads. I'm a fan. That said, there's a military manned foxhole at the main gate, but I never felt threatened.



At the gate we all stop, and James and Byron chat with the park rangers about our entrance. We pay the daily park fee at the campground, and we receive our time. James explained to me that they control speed through the park by marking your time as the front gate, and then comparing to your arrival time at the inner campground checkpoint. This is to prevent roadkill of the protected species in the park. Along the way, here's the variety of road signs we see to illustrate the point.

 

[overlander]

After a 15-20 minutes pleasant drive through the park entrance road, we arrive at the main campground and hotel site. You can get an idea of how many international tourists visit Tikal from the amount of minivans and buses that are parked here. There's camping grounds located here, as well as the Tikal Jaguar Inn and restaurant (which we don't see until later in the trip). We short hault for a moment in the main parking area while James and Graham pake the park fees for our time in the reserve, and they we move up and park at the campsite cafe (can't remember the name) for a "last supper" in neo-civilization.


While we are inside waiting on our food, dozens of tourists of all nationalities to include many Europeans flow in and out of the restaurant. The 110's parked outside draw a bit of attention next to the mini-buses. Most of the travelers here are the 20 something backpack across the globe Europeans living it up on the road.

As we are people watching, James breaks the silence to illustrate a point he had made earlier in a conversation. Little did I know that Belize and Guatemala don't have the best relationship. As a result, the Guatemalan government does not recognize Belize as a country, and still considers it one of their states or territories. On the wall is a Guatemalan map, and if you look at it, Belize is just an area within Guatemalan. You have to find an international map to see Belize as a sovereign state. Point made.


After lunch and a few cervezas, we hit the head (surprisingly clean!) and hit the road for Uaxactun. For the rest of the trip, I'll be riding shotgun with James in Romulus the crew cab, and Bill and Lee will be in Remus, the wagon.
The plan is to make good time to Uaxactun, make sure the mules are laid on to meet us at the Naactun site 3 days from now and to see the rare Mayan archeological specimens that the government agent ("the lady") has at her farm/museum/house/compound there. Then we'll make our way into the jungle growth on unmaintained government trails to Dos Lagunas campsight. Sounds easy right?

So we say goodbye to Tikal for now..

 

[StphNieuw]

Fantastic so far. Sound like a great trip!

 

[NoLimitX]

Mark the suspense is killing me and I was there! Great write up.

Thanks
James

 

[overlander]

Trying to writeup a little every afternoon (trying). Getting the right pictures composed and inserted takes a while. We'll get there.