Introducing Miss Rubi, a 2012 Jeep Rubicon Unlimited

[TreeTopFlyer]

Just picked mine up yesterday. That seatbelt chime is going to be the first thing to go. Thanks for the heads up on how to remove it.

The owners manual doesn't have the instructions on how to turn off seatbelt chime on the '12 Jeep. All it says its that an authorized dealer can turn it off. After a little online research, I found the procedure is the same as previous years.

Start with the seat belt buckled, turn the key to the on position. Within the first 60 seconds, unbuckle and buckle the belt three times in 10 seconds, turn off the key, and when the door is opened, a single chime will be heard. That's it! Much quicker than going to the dealer.

Mark

 

[crawler#976]

Decided to add a bumper and winch to Miss Rubi. My primary goal was keeping the additional weight to a minimum, so after doing some research, I found the LoD Armor Lite bumper system. The main bumper is built from 0.125 wall formed alloy steel, and comes in at a svelt 31 Lbs. Adding the bull bar and skid add an additional 10 Lbs or so. The same criteria was used for a winch, and the SmittyBilt XRC8 Comp fit the budget and the weight limit. Total weight including the KC Daylite PolyMax HID driving lights is under 100 Lbs. All the bumper and winch parts arrived last week, so I did the install this weekend.

To install the lights I drilled holes thru the bar and bumper to feed the wiring so that it's not exposed. Took a lot more time to do it that way, but it sure looks better! Cost wise, the bumper ($740.00) and winch ($444.00) were less than an AEV Premium bumper, and the complete LoD bumper and SmittyBilt winch weighs about the same as the AEV bumper does alone.

I'm please with the results!

I'll be adding a Factor 55 ProLink and winch lock ASAP.

Mark

 

[toddz69]

Looks great, Mark!

Todd Z.

 

[Hilldweller]

Nice job, Mark.

I'd love to scope the output on the relay...
Maybe with the new harness you could add a dongle for the trip power to the KCs? My concern is the lack of diode.

I love the radio mounting job you did; that looks like it belongs there.

The 5W LEDs concern me a little ---- have you ever measured the temps they generate rearward after being on a bit? JK wiring and plastics aren't knows as industry leaders.
Do you have an infrared thermometer to take a reading?

 

[crawler#976]

Nope, but I've had no problems with either the PW or the Jeep. The stock 3157 bulb for the Jeep draws what, 2.3 amps? So they should be roughly putting out 30W vs the 0.5 amps draw for 5W of output for the LED.

Next project starts this weekend - will be installing a Rally Lights Hella H4 conversion w/ wiring loom I found used here on the Expo. Purchased a pair of Philips 9003 X-Treme Vision 67/60W bulbs to use with the kit.

 

[Hilldweller]

You have to measure the heat from the LEDs at the base though. Use an infrared gun.
They throw a ton of heat backward and might do something funny to the socket.
Leave them on for about 5 minutes and check it out. Just the nerd in me...

 

[crawler#976]

...Leave them on for about 5 minutes and check it out. Just the nerd in me...

:Wow1: I don't think I'll do that if they could melt the socket We'll let someone else find that out.

I've used them for backing up the trailer w/ the PW, so they have been on for a few minutes with no obvious problems. That said, I haven't had a reason to take off the tail light and inspect anything either. On the Jeep, the only extensive backing we've done was well under a minute, and that's rare. I suppose there might be a situation where they would be on longer, but it's only happened to me once in 35 years of off highway travel.

 

[crawler#976]

Installed the used Rally Lights H4 conversion I got here on the Expo w/ a new set of Philips 67/60W X-Treme Vision bulbs on Saturday afternoon. Very easy, straight forward install - took under two hours to mount the relays, route the wiring, and R&R the lights. I took some photos before and after the install, but my current camera struggled with the focus, so I'm bummed about that.

I can describe the difference as litterally night and day. The Philips bulb itself advertizes 80% more light than a standard H4, so the improvement on the low beams is very evident, but the big change is in the high beams. It's actually astounding. Dazzling. It finally makes the lights on the Jeep work the way they should.

Mark

 

[Hilldweller]

They had the best highbeams I tested on an H4, Mark. You could still read by them at 150 yards.

 

[crawler#976]

Yeah, they are pretty dang good. In fact, I can actually see the high beams with the HID's on. They are so bright, they provide great fill to the KC 851 driving lights. I couldn't even tell the stock lights were on before. I'd planned on adding a couple Rigid Dually's, but they won't be needed now!

 

[Septu]

Not sure how common this is, but I burnt out both my H4 Phillip bulbs within 3-4 months.

 

[toddz69]

Not sure how common this is, but I burnt out both my H4 Phillip bulbs within 3-4 months.

I've never used Philips bulbs but it's been my experience (which seems to mirror the experiences of a number of acquaintances) that the H4 bulbs, particularly those with power ratings higher than the typical 55/60W, have a limited lifespan as compared to standard halogen headlights. I routinely get 1-2 years of service out of mine (Narva, 90/100W). Mildly annoying, but the tradeoff with the increased light output/beam clarity is worth it, in my opinion. I carry a spare H4 bulb in the truck's glovebox for use as-needed. Top tip - most auto parts stores sell replace H4 bulbs for motorcycles and they're great as a spare.

Todd Z.

 

[Hilldweller]

Not sure how common this is, but I burnt out both my H4 Phillip bulbs within 3-4 months.

Me too.

The number 1 reason I went with and am so enthusiastic about LEDs for Jeeps....

 

[crawler#976]

Yeah, TruckLite's would be nice, but I can buy a LOT of H4 bulbs for the difference in price, especially since this was a used kit to start with. We'll keep the 100/90W Hella's that came with the kit for spares. A replacement is doable in the field, but it's not quick, that's for sure.

 

[crawler#976]

Well, one photo turned out...



H4 conversion high beams and KC #851 HID's; the end of the street is 600 yards away for reference.