Isuzu npr 4wd

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
With regard to your tank fitting between the chassis rails, I would be very careful about ensuring chassis rail twisting clearance.
I totally agree, that's why all of my centrally mounted tanks (fuel and water) have their own 3 point kinematic mounts.
My other tanks are mounted directly to my subframe, which also has a kinematic spring mounting system. :)
 

gator70

Active member
The habitat comes with a passthrough door. Time to plan the rear of the cab engineering. Unlike some builders I don't see a need to connect the two. If the cab passthrough door is a tambour style , and the habitat is a normal composite door, a human can climb through. The habitat and cab will be 100mm apart. So yes there is a space the human must crawl through. Now is the time to plan this. To prepare the cab, I will cut a thicker sheet of aluminum, the exact size as the rear window, then have a auto glass company remove the rear window and with a new gasket replace it with the aluminum sheet shape.
Update tambour door

I just ordered a complete "shower door kit" off alilbaba

It is 600mm x 2000mm

it comes in all parts, being aluminum with nice frame and rails

We plan to resize it with the parts. Then build a custom steel to aluminum frame/connection for the rear of the cab.

When the door opens we have two option (1) close the cab ceiling (2) at the bottom of the door, and build a enclosure on the cab floor. Build this enclosure as storage cabinet in the cab.

The cab comes with a rear back seat. (crew cab). We will remove that and have four leather bucket seats for the truck. (two for the rear)
 
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gator70

Active member
Update tambour door

I just ordered a complete "shower door kit" off alilbaba

It is 600mm x 2000mm

it comes in all parts, being aluminum with nice frame and rails

We plan to resize it with the parts. Then build a custom steel to aluminum frame/connection for the rear of the cab.

When the door opens we have two option (1) close the cab ceiling (2) at the bottom of the door, and build a enclosure on the cab floor. Build this enclosure as storage cabinet in the cab.

The cab comes with a rear back seat. (crew cab). We will remove that and have four leather bucket seats for the truck. (two for the rear)

Now, it seems financially viable to buy two kits

When I use the parts and re size the door, I can meet the closure of the door in the "center"

What this does is reduce the door track "return distance" as the door is now half the size (each).

The two doors close in the center
 

gator70

Active member
A quick question:

When you are in "camping mode" as opposed to "traveling mode", are you going to have the ability to turn the back of the cab into a sleeping area for your guests/ family members or all 4 of you planning on sleeping in the box?


Habitat sleeps four adults'
 

gator70

Active member
Will replace the rear bench seat with two leather bucket seats

As the pass though will open the middle of the rear of the cab.
 

gator70

Active member
Any suggestion on a custom storage box size in the void behind the cab under the rear window for long shortage items?
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
Auxiliary fuel tank -Beginning fabrication -25 gallons 10 3/4 inch deep (1976 Chev Blazer tank new)
How are you mounting that tank?
I ask because that area of the chassis is likely to experience a reasonable amount of flex, which is not ideal for a metal tank.
 

gator70

Active member
How are you mounting that tank?
I ask because that area of the chassis is likely to experience a reasonable amount of flex, which is not ideal for a metal tank.
The factory tank has mounts. The fabricator will mount the tank. Then when I get the truck, I will remount it with some isolation. There are many options. This will before we mount the subframe.
 

gator70

Active member
Spring mount

1722135785249.png

All The research I did, and folks I spoke with - The consensus on the spring was -Trial and error

I chose this one

ISO Die Spring 1" X 5" DHD Heavy Duty
 

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SkiFreak

Crazy Person
The consensus on the spring was -Trial and error
There are a lot of variables when it comes to dynamic loads, so I totally agree about a trial and error approach when dealing with kinematic subframe mounts. It's what I did.
Just a word of advice... if you can, choose a spring size that comes in a variety of spring rates. That will allow you to change the springs (if necessary) without having to worry about modifying the mounts.
I should add, it cannot be all trial and error. You need some basic ideas of what the spring needs to do, like the amount of free travel and an estimate of how much load the spring will need to resist. If the springs become coil bound you could do some damage to the kinematic mounting setup.

As for the tank...
Have you considered mounting it off the bottom of the subframe? I have done this with some of my tanks.
 
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