ITTOG's Truck Camper Build (was 6' x 12' Trailer Conversion)

[ITTOG]

ITTOG sounds like you went through a lot of grief trying to get a nice camping rig. I went through some similar problems before coming up with my third trailer build. The first one was built on a 4x8 trailer...too small. The second was 6X12 not too bad but a friend bought it for $10,000! Then I looked at cargo trailers, all junk at ridiculous prices so back to a flat bed with tandem axles. I already had and still have a 2006 dodge 2500 Diesel 4x4, it gets about 11mpg towing the new one.
Here's a link to the build thread https://americanadventurist.com/forum/threads/bigger-not-a-teardrop.6382/page-5

Yes there has definitely been some grief but at the same time I got to learn how it was built and improve it. I think it reconfirmed the old adage "if you want something done correctly you have to do it yourself". These companies that mass produce, even if by hand, take every shortcut imaginable. This is a big part of why I am building a truck camper instead of buying a habitat or similar. It may take me longer to build but it will be exactly what I want and I am confident it will be built better.

I have reviewed your build and it is very nice. I like the size but something like that would never make it to where I go. My 6x12 cargo trailer was a tight fit when you consider creek crossing, giant rocks, steep inclines and declines, going between very large trees, floating through giant mud puddles, etc. If I where to do it over I never would have bought the cargo trailer. I would have done exactly what you did, buy a utility trailer and build the box myself. You did excellent work on that.

 

[Andrew_S]

That scale model was a stroke of genius. That's the hardest part about something one off like this, visualizing.
Man I was just shaking my heads at the quality of construction of that trailer. What a shame.
I've got to say any of the specialty "overland" campers I've seen lately, seem to be extremely high quality. That comes with a very high price though.
Are you able to sleep sideways in your camper? My truck bed width is only 5' so unless I had 8" overhanging either side it wasn't an option but I would think just a slight overhang may get you that option? Good luck with rest of your build, look forward to watching it move forward.

 

[ITTOG]

Not sure if you are talking about the trailer or the one I am building so I will answer for both.

Trailer - Yes. It is 5' 9" wide and I am 5' 6". I don't move when I sleep so I have no problem work it.

Truck Camper - No. It will only be about 5' 4" wide.

After reading again I see you were talking about the truck camper. I am trying to reduce drag so I don't want it any wider. My cab over will be 4' over the cab so only 2' 4" will be over the bed of the truck and it will flip up. So I will be able to have a long bed and stand vertically in the entire truck bed. On my point about drag, if you look at my model you will see at the front it contours with my cab and then flares out. All to prevent a flat wall from sticking out.

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[ITTOG]

Spent some time today working on the cab over section. Not done yet (need more steel) but it is starting to take shape. All the steel going side to side is just in there for bracing and will be removed when done with all the welding. This 16 gauge steel wants to bend with very little heat. It makes it more difficult for an inexperienced welder. I like 1/8 and thicker much better.

Unfortunately it started raining so I didn't get any pics outside where it is easier to see.



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[Andrew_S]

Awesome progress. I'll definitely be following your build for inspiration. What material are you planning on using to skin the exterior with? What are you doing for windows if any?

 

[ITTOG]

Awesome progress. I'll definitely be following your build for inspiration. What material are you planning on using to skin the exterior with? What are you doing for windows if any?

Thanks. Right now I am leaning towards ACM (aluminum composite material) or fiberglass. ACM is a sandwich panel with aluminum, PE, and aluminum. I prefer to not use angle trim pieces to create a water tight seal so that makes me want to use fiberglass. But, fiberglass will be a lot of work and such a mess.

I did a lot of work over the weekend. The bed frame is complete and welded on the camper. Next up is to finish grinding my welds and begin welding the top of the camper and the back by the tailgate.

A few pictures for you. I hope to get better ones this week.

 

[ITTOG]

Does anyone know if fiberglass panels are available for purchase? It would be great if I can find some around 1/4" thick, +- 1/8" thick. I could connect the panels easily by adding additional fiberglass and this would definitely be waterproof. Also, anyone know of gas struts with at least 40" of travel?

Pics from last night. The tube on the top is part of the roof. There will be one more tube on the roof. The roof will be 3" tall and the bed will be 6" tall.

 

[highwest]

I reached out to Composites One when I needed a couple sheets of knock off Coosa Board. The shipping cost was not fun, but they may have options for you if there’s one close by you.

 

[ITTOG]

Thanks for the suggestion. I gave them a call and they do not have anything pre-fabbed. But I know where to go if I want the materials to do it myself. Thanks again.

 

[McCarthy]

But the mpg's aren't what bother me. Seeing the turbo's always spooled up does. It would be like driving your truck with the rpm's just below redlining all the time.

I don't think you understand how engines work. The turbo's being spooled all the time do not in any way shape or form make it "like it's right below redline the whole time" the entire point of turbo's are to provide additional power lower in the RPM range. If you tow your same setup with a V8, you'll be at a dramatically HIGHER rpm. That engine makes 470 ft/lbs at 3500rpm. The 5.0L makes 400 ft/lbs at 5000rpm. That means to do the same amount of work, the V8 will be at a much higher RPM.

Go drive a diesel one ton. You'll make 20 pounds of boost off idle whether you're starting from a light empty, or towing a 40' gooseneck with a 20,000lb tractor on it. Even more so, 18 wheelers turbo's are spooled to the moon from the moment it drives off the lot, til the moment it's overhauled, a million + miles later.

 

[ITTOG]

I don't think you understand how engines work. The turbo's being spooled all the time do not in any way shape or form make it "like it's right below redline the whole time" the entire point of turbo's are to provide additional power lower in the RPM range. If you tow your same setup with a V8, you'll be at a dramatically HIGHER rpm. That engine makes 470 ft/lbs at 3500rpm. The 5.0L makes 400 ft/lbs at 5000rpm. That means to do the same amount of work, the V8 will be at a much higher RPM.

Go drive a diesel one ton. You'll make 20 pounds of boost off idle whether you're starting from a light empty, or towing a 40' gooseneck with a 20,000lb tractor on it. Even more so, 18 wheelers turbo's are spooled to the moon from the moment it drives off the lot, til the moment it's overhauled, a million + miles later.

I don't think you comprehended my analogy. I was making a comparison between an engine at high rpms and the turbo's at high rpms, which would be max boost.

Oh, and given I built street cars and race cars for over 10 years I think I completely understand how engines work.

 

[McCarthy]

I don't think you comprehended my analogy. I was making a comparison between an engine at high rpms and the turbo's at high rpms, which would be max boost.

Oh, and given I built street cars and race cars for over 10 years I think I completely understand how engines work.

You're right, I don't comprehend your analogy. There's zero correlation between a turbo's RPM (~250,000+) and an engine spinning at >6000 rpm. Of course, given you build race cars, you know a turbo has a couple moving parts, compared to hundreds in an engine.

 

[ITTOG]

I think I have decided to use ACM for my skin. They have a 3 mm and 6 mm thickness to choose. So which one would be best? The aluminum on the 3 mm ACM is only 0.15 mm thick and on the 6 mm it is 0.20 mm thick. Not a big difference but where I go has a lot of rubbing by tree branches so thinking the extra thickness of the aluminum would be good insurance???? One 4' x 8' sheet of the 3 mm ACM is 23.3 pounds and the 6 mm sheet is 41.6 pounds. So, does the thicker ACM have improved strength properties to justify the extra weight? Apparently no. I just found the spec sheet and both panels have the same impact strength. Interesting? But, I do like the extra thickness. I think it would keep the panel from bowing/flexing so it would look more solid and maybe even stiff enough to cut it with a hinged panel.

One more question. Anyone have an all black camper? how much eat does it attract? I prefer black but am a bit afraid of the heat that it will generate even though 90% of my camping is below freezing. So I thought black sides and white top.

Below are links to examples of the material if you are interested.
https://www.maxmetal.com/6mm.html
https://www.maxmetal.com/3mm-aluminum-composite-panel.html

Not sure if anyone has any experience with ACM but the sign shop I am going to purchase it through suggested I use Lord Adhesives 3024186 Signlok 406, which is an acrylic adhesive, to bond the panels and any flashing I may want to use. Anyone have experience with this adhesive or know of better adhesives to bond aluminum and polyethylene?

Unfortunately this is the only picture I took of this weekends work. But getting close to finishing the welding. Not a lot of change, just finishing up the roof and some bracing. This weld is connection two 1.5" square tube for the roof. Hopefully next weekend I will have finished pictures of the frame.

 

[Deleted member 9101]

I wasn't indicating it wasn't normal or was an issue with the truck. I am just indicating it sucks and I prefer a V8. When this engine blows I will replace it with a V8.

You do realize that a V8 is a serious downgrade...lol. You'll have far less power when you need it, it will be downshifting more often, and to top it off it will have to spin at 4,000+ rpms to get the job done. I've towed the same exact enclosed trailer with a 5.0 and 3.5, the 3.5 did every single thing better... Except it got one less mpg whilst towing.

My 2.7 has pulled a 7k travel trailer through all kinds of mountains. I set the cruise at 70-75 and it has no problems with hills, merging, or hitting the left hand lane to pass slow drivers. Zero issues in 50k.

Also... The only way you'll blow a 3.5 is by doing something completely stupid. My brothers is running a set of Full Race turbos and tubular manifolds, Snow meth kit, and a very aggressive tune. He's probably around 600+ RWHP and his hasn't flinched.


See for yourself, the 5.0 gets trounced:

 

[highwest]

How much do you expect to be using adhesive in the core portion of that ACM material? Polyethylene is notoriously difficult to get anything to bond. I believe the folks at West Systems list their GFlex as an option. 3M 5200 is pretty damn permanent on aluminum. Those are both marine-centric options. I believe the standard in RVs is Sikaflex 221 and fasteners, maybe? Finally, I have seen some impressive videos of 3M’s VHB tape. Just suggesting as a few starting places to begin your search, of course.