Jah310 Trailer Build. Here goes...!

[jah310]

Got a bit more done...

Put together the top of the box. Used a a sanding flap to get It all smooth.





Then put the angle iron corners together. It was a challenge to get these things all lined up. The inside corners of the angle iron aren't 90 degree corners - they're rounded so when I butted them up against the trailer frame they weren't exactly square. I ended up using a ratchet strap to keep everything squared up.



Then had to find a way to put it on the trailer... Struggled at first but eventually got it. I clamped some flat bars on the corners so there was something the box could rest on while I welded it up.




Got it welded onto the frame - I think it looks good : )






Threw the ARB fridge on there to see how it looks...

 

[skersfan]

I would consider triangulating the tongue. How thick is the wall on the 2 inch tongue tubing. I use 2.5 tubing with 1/4 inch wall thickness and still triangulate. Takes a few extra minutes, but it makes the tongue much stronger. IMHO.

Bob

 

[jah310]

I would consider triangulating the tongue. How thick is the wall on the 2 inch tongue tubing. I use 2.5 tubing with 1/4 inch wall thickness and still triangulate. Takes a few extra minutes, but it makes the tongue much stronger. IMHO.

Bob

Yep - plan on doing that soon. Tongue tubing is 1/4 inch, but since ill be adding a trailer tounge box, I'll triangulate. Thanks for the suggestion...

 

[Mark Harley]

Very nice! What are you sheeting the box with?

 

[jah310]

I had a very productive weekend and felt like I got a lot done...

Welded up the side supports...





Built the lid... 14 gauge metal on top. Hopefully it's not too heavy for the gas springs. Opens up fine now but may need to go with the 175 pound shocks. We'll see when the tent arrives.






Welded on the hinges... These things are great, very strong, work smoothly and are easy to weld. Good buy from Northern Tools.




Beefed up the lid shock mounts... The lid weighs about 150 pounds. The way these shock mounts came, they would've never lasted.


Open sesame!

I didn't figure out until it was too late that I have it opening on the drivers side. Oh well... I'm not overly exercised about it.

 

[jah310]

Added the 14g sheet metal to the top...



Started building the side paneling. It's made of composite decking material. I think it will be good against the elements and hopefully keep the trailer cool.


I used stainless steel bolts all around. It keeps the decking paneling very stable. I think it looks good too.




So far so good I'm happy the way this is turning out.

 

[Mark Harley]

I like the looks of the composite on the sides.
Very nice. What is your idea for fenders?

 

[jah310]

I like the looks of the composite on the sides.
Very nice. What is your idea for fenders?

Thanks Mark. I think I'm going to attempt to fab up some of mine own...I can't seem to find any Pre built ones that I like or that would fit. Hopefuly they turn out okay.

 

[Mark Harley]

By the looks of the rest of your fab work and design I am sure you will have something cool for fenders when complete.
Post your results. Are you going with matching Toyota color for the steel on the trailer?

 

[jah310]

Yeah I think so - ideally I'd have it powder coated magnetic grey just like the Tacoma.

 

[VanIsle_Greg]

Nice build, and I put my lid on opening the same way you did, on the drivers side. I reasoned that if I am traveling and I want a snack, I stop, get out, open lid, get snack/beverage as opposed to having to walk around the other side. I was originally going to open in from the end (front hinged) but it is too unwieldy and heavy that way, plus hard to get at stuff inside.

Nice build, nice design and fab skills. How big is this thing inside? 4 x 6?

 

[jah310]

Greg, good to hear regarding the lid. For whatever reason I always imagined in my head that it would open on the drivers side, so when I was welding my autopilot just did it that way. Ha. Yeah the box is 4x6 with an inside height of 2 ft.

I want to line the inside with a spray on liner...saw some people have used Raptor Liner with some success. You guys think that stuff will stick to the composite paneling??

 

[Mark Harley]

A review I read on Raptor Liner about spraying on plastic materials.

"I used a 3M Scotchbrite pad that mounts to a drill and scuff every nook and cranny really well. Then clean a couple of times with Acetone or TSP then Bedline."

 

[VanIsle_Greg]

I used a roll on (or spray on) liner called Monstaliner. It is similar to the Raptor Liner and a few others out there, VERY pleased with it. As for sticking or bonding to the composite deck material, I would go to a reputable paint supplier (not Home Depot or the big box stores) and discuss primer options. Sherwin Williams commercial supply stores are a good one. Plastics are tricky to get a good bond too, and you need to make sure that the Bed Liner will then stick to the barrier coat. If you get it wrong, you will end up with a mess, get it right and it should last for years.

Most liners are urethane based and will stick like poop to a blanket on the correct primer. I primed my tub with PRO15 Satin and sanded the heck out of it before 2 coats of liner. It bonded like mad! I would suggest that there are probably some excellent primers that will work with the composite and will work under the liner and give you great adhesion as well as a good base for your top coat!

Looking forward to seeing this painted!!

 

[jah310]

Awesome Greg - thanks for the tips. I still have a bit a work ahead of me before I get the to spray on liner phase, but just wanted to get an idea of what my options are. Much appreciated. I'll keep you posted on how it develops!