Jelorian
Adventurer
If you want the wheel/tire to really be flush with the fenders go with 17x9's.
Thanks for your comments on the K&N. I'll make sure the swap out to the OEM paper filter before going on an offroad trip.
Jelorian's 03 Z71 Suburban Build
- Thread starter Jelorian
- Start date
If you want the wheel/tire to really be flush with the fenders go with 17x9's.
Thanks for your comments on the K&N. I'll make sure the swap out to the OEM paper filter before going on an offroad trip.
Ghostwarrior
New member
Nice suburban. I own 99 suburban too and plan to expedition this year..
Here my pic
Here my pic
Martinjmpr
Wiffleball Batter
Electrical
-Dual Interstate Batteries (Costco $79.99 each)
-Retainer GM Part #14005061 (formerly 356668) - gmpartsgiant.com
-Aux Battery Tray GM Part #15246518 - gmpartsgiant.com
-Hold Down Bolt GM Part #11509853 - gmpartsgiant.com
-Insulator GM Part #10246636 - gmpartsgiant.com
-2AWG Welding Cable - amazon.com
-Blue Sea Fuse Boxes 5191 - amazon.com
-Blue Sea 150A fuses - Western Marine
-40A Relays - amazon.com
-Stinger SGP32 200A Battery Isolator - amazon.com
-Split Loom - amazon.com
-Marine grade heat shrink, terminals - amazon.com
Can I just pick your brain for a minute about the dual battery setup? Just curious about whether the batteries are isolated from each other or not - does the alternator charge both batteries or just one at a time? I know there are a few different ways to hook up dual batteries, and I'm still learning. As I've said, my main concern is that I run a fridge and I don't want to run the battery down to where the vehicle won't start and/or the fridge shuts off and I lose my cold food.
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I'm just wondering what the main reason was you chose to go with dual batteries? The only additional power I see you drawing is for your front driving lights. Or do you plan on putting a winch or something like that on later?
Jelorian
Adventurer
The batteries are isolated and run independent of each other when the engine is off. When the engine is on, the Stinger Isolator charges both at the same time. When the engine if off, and as long as the accessories you are using are hooked up to the auxiliary battery, you can't run down your starter battery as they are isolated from each other.
The main reason I went with dual's was for the auxiliary lighting and the plans to get a winch, fridge, CB/VHF radios, GPS, air compressor, and any other electronics the family decides to bring along on our excursions.
Martinjmpr
Wiffleball Batter
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Ah, so the isolator is kind of a "one way" gate, i.e. power can flow in (from the alternator) but can't flow out (to the other battery.)
Martinjmpr
Wiffleball Batter
.The new wheel and tire would fit just fine, however I plan on putting an auxiliary fuel tank and compressor underneath. Plus how else would I be able to show off such cool wheels?
I would much rather deal with taking a spare off the Hitchgate carrier instead of crawling underneath to get to the spare. It would be even more of a pain if the flat tire was one of the rear tires. Add to the fact that more than likely I'd get a flat on some not so nice terrain, makes the decision easier for me. BTW, getting the spare down off of the OEM winch system is a major pain. If you haven't tried, give it a go. You'll find out real quick how frustrating it is. Mine wasn't corroded at all and I still needed chanel locks to push in the latch. Not to mention I had to jack up the spare so that I could get to the latch. I ended up cutting that stupid thing off...I would love to kick the engineer/s who designed that right in the nuts!
OMG, I completely know what you're saying now! Mine is pretty rusted underneath (thanks to 8 years in WI) and just this afternoon I tried and tried for 3 hours but could not get it to release! What a horrible, stupid, idiotic design! Whoever designed that latch should be tied, up, whipped, shot, whipped again and shot again.
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Anyway, I finally gave up, got out the angle grinder and just ground off the lobe of the carrier to let the tire drop. Now I'm looking into a hitchgate. Just want to make sure I can still pull a trailer with it (though our trailer's pretty light, maybe 2000lbs max.)
Jelorian
Adventurer
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OMG, I completely know what you're saying now! Mine is pretty rusted underneath (thanks to 8 years in WI) and just this afternoon I tried and tried for 3 hours but could not get it to release! What a horrible, stupid, idiotic design! Whoever designed that latch should be tied, up, whipped, shot, whipped again and shot again.
.
Anyway, I finally gave up, got out the angle grinder and just ground off the lobe of the carrier to let the tire drop. Now I'm looking into a hitchgate. Just want to make sure I can still pull a trailer with it (though our trailer's pretty light, maybe 2000lbs max.)
Ah...I see you have experienced first hand the stupidity of the GMC engineers who designed that mechanism.
As far as pulling your 2000lb trailer, you should have no problem with the Hitchgate. It's rated for 7500lb max towing.
Jelorian, great looking setup, we gotta get together sometime this summer being local.
Martinjmpr, know this is a bit late, but a stock 198x-1996 ford F150 rear tank fits perfectly between the chassis rails/ hitch rails where the stock spare tires sit. They are 20 gallon tanks, and it all works nicely. I used the stock f150 fuel pump, and just tee'd the output into the filler neck for the stock tank. When I get to 1/4 a tank, a switch in the cab (with a reminder buzzer) turns on the pump and within 10 minutes, the tank is full. I even jused a stock f150 fuel gauge and put in my dash.
If interested I can take pictures. Very similar (and I stole the idea from another forum, lookup Aux fuel tank Avalanche on google)
Jelorian
Adventurer
geronracing, your rig is impressive indeed. "modified" would be an understatement! I'm inspired to do more mods to mine! Where are you located as you mentioned being local. PM me if you'd like.
Right now I'm (again), on the fence on whether to get a Warn 9.5k winch with the Hidden Winch mount for the front. I like the stealth look. However, I do see the practicality of mounting a hitch in the front so that I could move a more powerful (12k+) winch to the front or back as needed. For someone who is a total noob when it comes to winching, I'm not sure if I need that capability as I don't intend to do hard core trails or rock crawling.
I'm interested in your custom square tube sliders. I seem to recall some company making square tube sliders out of hitch tubing. With how heaving our rigs are I think the square tube would hold up better to the round.
So right now, I'm wanting to get a winch, sliders, snorkel, like forum member TahoeMD has, and the biggest roof rack I can fit. For longer term, I'd definitely like to beef up the rear end with a 14 bolt like you did as well as possibly a 4l80E when the time comes.
Cheers!
Pm'd,
Also, I seriously thought about the hidden winch mount for the front, however I am not sure if 9.5k winches are suitable for how heavy our rigs are. Your'e right it's going to depend on your use and were not going to be winching up the side of a mountain over rocker, however, I've gotten pretty stuck before, and that's been on semi flat ground, which just a ton of mud, My 12k engo did the trick fine, I am sure a 10k warn would have been fine too. My theory, is t's better to have it incase you need it.....
Te square tubing I had custom made before I felt comfortable welding. costed ~$450 all said and done. They are strong enough to lift the entire side of the truck on a hi-light from one spot for tire changes, and definitely protect the body. They are just 1/4 square tubing welded together and then welded to the frame. Any local fabricator can have them made, I can get you pictures if you want.
Can't wait to see the roof rack, I went with the enclosed thule because I had it laying around from a previous vehicle, but I've always thought about the larger storage ability.
Also, I seriously thought about the hidden winch mount for the front, however I am not sure if 9.5k winches are suitable for how heavy our rigs are. Your'e right it's going to depend on your use and were not going to be winching up the side of a mountain over rocker, however, I've gotten pretty stuck before, and that's been on semi flat ground, which just a ton of mud, My 12k engo did the trick fine, I am sure a 10k warn would have been fine too. My theory, is t's better to have it incase you need it.....
Te square tubing I had custom made before I felt comfortable welding. costed ~$450 all said and done. They are strong enough to lift the entire side of the truck on a hi-light from one spot for tire changes, and definitely protect the body. They are just 1/4 square tubing welded together and then welded to the frame. Any local fabricator can have them made, I can get you pictures if you want.
Can't wait to see the roof rack, I went with the enclosed thule because I had it laying around from a previous vehicle, but I've always thought about the larger storage ability.
rayra
Expedition Leader
Jelorian, how big of a roof rack are you after? I can't tell for sure from your photos but it doesn't seem like you have the sunroof. I just last week completed my roof rack deck on my Sub, and even with the sunroof the deck is just shy 7' long and 44" wide. The z71 roof rack has got a stout frame and large footings / mountings, I can support quite a bit of weight, if you should choose to craft a metal basket that bolts to the side rails of the Z71 rack. Details of mounting brackets to it are in my deck topic. Basically 5/16"x1" carriage bolts work perfectly.
http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...ng-a-roof-rack-deck-on-a-GMT800-Suburban-Z-71
And even with the sunroof, if you fabricate a custom basket and mounted it at the height of the bottom of the side rails akin to my plywood deck, you could still clear the sunroof in its' full elevated position. And that mounting height only clears the highest crown of the room by about 3/4" anyway. A 6" deep basket, made of 3/4' square tubing or round, would project about 4" above the side rails of the Z71 rack. And if carried forward over the sunroof, say to its leading edge, it could be as long as 100" / just over 8' long.
And were it me I'd make the rack basket with a hinged floor over the sunroof, latched below, so the sunroof could still be passed thru.
/and looking again at your pictures I REALLY have to get busy and get my suspension lift.
http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...ng-a-roof-rack-deck-on-a-GMT800-Suburban-Z-71
And even with the sunroof, if you fabricate a custom basket and mounted it at the height of the bottom of the side rails akin to my plywood deck, you could still clear the sunroof in its' full elevated position. And that mounting height only clears the highest crown of the room by about 3/4" anyway. A 6" deep basket, made of 3/4' square tubing or round, would project about 4" above the side rails of the Z71 rack. And if carried forward over the sunroof, say to its leading edge, it could be as long as 100" / just over 8' long.
And were it me I'd make the rack basket with a hinged floor over the sunroof, latched below, so the sunroof could still be passed thru.
/and looking again at your pictures I REALLY have to get busy and get my suspension lift.
Jelorian
Adventurer
I hear ya on the 9.5k not being ample enough for our rigs. If I could fit something bigger using the hidden winch mount I would. I don't plan on going mudding with mine, but who knows what we might encounter out on the trail. I wonder if the 9.5k limitation on the hidden winch mount is the strength of the mount or the space. I'm also leaning towards the hidden mount because I already have the baja light bar installed and it would get in the way of a winch that is mounted to a front hitch.
Would love to see pics of the sliders you have. I was debating just buying a set made for another truck and adapting them to fit. Or, just find a local fabricator. Who did yours or do you know of anyone local?
Jelorian
Adventurer
Jelorian, how big of a roof rack are you after? I can't tell for sure from your photos but it doesn't seem like you have the sunroof. I just last week completed my roof rack deck on my Sub, and even with the sunroof the deck is just shy 7' long and 44" wide. The z71 roof rack has got a stout frame and large footings / mountings, I can support quite a bit of weight, if you should choose to craft a metal basket that bolts to the side rails of the Z71 rack. Details of mounting brackets to it are in my deck topic. Basically 5/16"x1" carriage bolts work perfectly.
And even with the sunroof, if you fabricate a custom basket and mounted it at the height of the bottom of the side rails akin to my plywood deck, you could still clear the sunroof in its' full elevated position. And that mounting height only clears the highest crown of the room by about 3/4" anyway. A 6" deep basket, made of 3/4' square tubing or round, would project about 4" above the side rails of the Z71 rack. And if carried forward over the sunroof, say to its leading edge, it could be as long as 100" / just over 8' long.
And were it me I'd make the rack basket with a hinged floor over the sunroof, latched below, so the sunroof could still be passed thru.
/and looking again at your pictures I REALLY have to get busy and get my suspension lift.
Hey rayra, I
I'm looking for something 7'-8' at least. Yes you are correct, I don't have a sunroof. I saw the thread on your custom rack. Very nice work and it looks great!
Unfortunately I have zero welding skills, so I would either have to call on the skills of a local fabricator or buy something that already exists and modify it. I may take a few queues from you and use your style of mounting brackets and get the biggest rack that Smittybilt makes. I think they have an 8' footer that was originally made for the older Suburbans.
I do have an enclosed Thule as well, but I'd like the option to carry more gear. I was debating using the Thule and then getting a full length/half width cargo rack.
Cheers!
Jel