zgfiredude
Active member
Sweet seats and great price! It's an easy fix.....just change your screen name to "Rspecpoet"!!
JK130 | Custom TDI Diesel Parallel Hybrid Jeep Wrangler with composite camper build.
- Thread starter straypoet
- Start date
Sweet seats and great price! It's an easy fix.....just change your screen name to "Rspecpoet"!!
Have you looked at the stock filter housing? Theres a check valve in there that helps keep the system primed slightly to quickly pressure the system (mostly for the head) Also you can mix and match oil pumps and gears to achieve different volumes and pressures.
pith helmet
Well-known member
straypoet
Active member
The check valve transfers to the new relocation plate, so in theory it still won't drain back. I know that the PD TDIs have a reputation for eating cams due to the narrow lobes and arguably bad oiling design. (The debates are endless on the TDI forums, as you likely know)
I thought about just keeping the original cassette filter design, but I just want the system to be simpler. There is a heat-exchanger on the bottom of the OEM housing, which would not be part of the new design, I think I will be ok eliminating this, though if the oil takes too long to come up to temp, I may have to re-think this.
As to the oiler, maybe because of the check valve it is overkill, but considering that I want these engines to last a long time, I may just do it for my own peace of mind.
The BHW that I am putting in already has an ALH oil pump, but that was done to remove the balance shaft assembly (before I bought the engine)
I am hoping that the ALH pump has enough volume and pressure for the PD engine. Have you worked with these to know what the optimal pump setup is on a BHW?
straypoet
Active member
I cannot argue with genius. A sharpie may just be used....
straypoet
Active member
Lol apparently. I remember putting a Grant GT steering wheel in a car in the 90s…. And when I was looking for replacement steering wheels I saw the same model. Still for sale. ?
The interior is going to be quite basic. Flat dash, basic guages. And you are correct, no airbag will be installed when finished.
That adapter plate is all you will need if it incorporates the check valve. aftermarket oil cooler is a must not so much for the cooling but for the added oil volume. I ended up using a radiator for and automatic that had the trans cooler integrated and used that as my oil cooler. added about a quart an a half to the volume and it helps warm the coolant up quicker. Added oil capacity is the biggest help for these motors in heavy swaps.
straypoet
Active member
Never thought of using the trans cooler inside the radiator as an engine oil cooler. Great idea! I will plan to go this route. I was going to replace the original radiator anyway, so might as well just get one for an auto and go with that.
Edit, I see that jeep didn't use an internal trans cooler for the JK, so if I go this route, I I will need to find a different compatible radiator.
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straypoet
Active member
As I am waiting for the HPA Motorsports adaptor plate, (should be here this coming week) I will focus this weekend on the interior of the project, and the tranmission.
I got my steering wheel, and the transmission shift plate, so those will keep me busy for a few hours.
In researching materials for the camper shell and the dash, I have found a supplier of Divinycell H80 that is local (about 30 miles) so I will save shipping costs on the foam cores.
https://fiberglassflorida.com/divinycell-h80.html
For the skins, I plan to use Carbon, but haven't yet decided if I want to do full carbon, or one of those cool carbon/kevlar woven sheets..
Some of those colors are really cool, you should check them out.
https://compositeenvisions.com/1-composite-reinforcement-fabrics/
I plan to use 1/2 Divinycell, with a carbon covering on the exterior of the camper (and aluminum corner guards) and then an additional 1" or 1-1/2" of regular XPS foam on the inside to add additional insulation.
I will be building the dash and the center console out of foam/carbon as well, though possibly a different foam, as I don't' expect to need a lot of structural strength there.
Building the dash will also allow me to brush up on my glassing skills again....
Once I get the steering wheel mounted, and can mock up the seating position properly, I will start working on those details as I get the engine in and running.
Oh, and I have a cool idea for the front seat mounts that I hope pans out.
Lots to do. I will be back at the Garage tomorrow!
I got my steering wheel, and the transmission shift plate, so those will keep me busy for a few hours.
In researching materials for the camper shell and the dash, I have found a supplier of Divinycell H80 that is local (about 30 miles) so I will save shipping costs on the foam cores.
https://fiberglassflorida.com/divinycell-h80.html
For the skins, I plan to use Carbon, but haven't yet decided if I want to do full carbon, or one of those cool carbon/kevlar woven sheets..
Some of those colors are really cool, you should check them out.
https://compositeenvisions.com/1-composite-reinforcement-fabrics/
I plan to use 1/2 Divinycell, with a carbon covering on the exterior of the camper (and aluminum corner guards) and then an additional 1" or 1-1/2" of regular XPS foam on the inside to add additional insulation.
I will be building the dash and the center console out of foam/carbon as well, though possibly a different foam, as I don't' expect to need a lot of structural strength there.
Building the dash will also allow me to brush up on my glassing skills again....
Once I get the steering wheel mounted, and can mock up the seating position properly, I will start working on those details as I get the engine in and running.
Oh, and I have a cool idea for the front seat mounts that I hope pans out.
Lots to do. I will be back at the Garage tomorrow!
rruff
Explorer
Very cool build!
Just some thoughts...
I don't know how budget sensitive you are but Carbon Core has relatively inexpensive PVC foam; ~half the price of Divinycell. They charge ~$300 flat shipping when I bought, but then no tax. FiberglassSupply carries inexpensive 11oz carbon cloth in 60" wide sheets, <$20/yd. I also like Ebond for inexpensive epoxy.
Carbon primarily adds stiffness vs fiberglass (2.5-3x stiffer), but strength is only slightly more. This means fiberglass will deflect a lot more before it breaks, and will also take impact better. I thought about using carbon for my shell, but it didn't make much sense. In a sandwich panel with >1" walls, FG is stiff enough for most of the camper. I love the look of carbon, but it needed to be painted over anyway. I did end up using it on the structrual floor/base and the large awning-door because I wanted those to be stiff.
If you want more insulation I think you'd be best off using thicker PVC foam (which is very good insulation) and skip both the carbon and XPS addition.
Just some thoughts...
I don't know how budget sensitive you are but Carbon Core has relatively inexpensive PVC foam; ~half the price of Divinycell. They charge ~$300 flat shipping when I bought, but then no tax. FiberglassSupply carries inexpensive 11oz carbon cloth in 60" wide sheets, <$20/yd. I also like Ebond for inexpensive epoxy.
Carbon primarily adds stiffness vs fiberglass (2.5-3x stiffer), but strength is only slightly more. This means fiberglass will deflect a lot more before it breaks, and will also take impact better. I thought about using carbon for my shell, but it didn't make much sense. In a sandwich panel with >1" walls, FG is stiff enough for most of the camper. I love the look of carbon, but it needed to be painted over anyway. I did end up using it on the structrual floor/base and the large awning-door because I wanted those to be stiff.
If you want more insulation I think you'd be best off using thicker PVC foam (which is very good insulation) and skip both the carbon and XPS addition.
straypoet
Active member
Thank you for your reply.
I am trying to keep costs down, but weight savings, and high strength are important to me. I will look into the carbon core foam alternative. Thank you. Also, the cheaper carbon cloth.
For the dash and other parts of the interior I plan to use carbon fiber and a clear epoxy for looks, but I am worried about long term UV damage to the epoxy on the actual camper shell, so as much as I would love to leave the carbon exposed, I will likely paint to protect the epoxy.
As far as carbon vs fiberglass for the camper shell, I am not against using fiberglass, but I figure since I am doing this only once, I might as well use the strongest and lightest material available.
For the insulation ability; I will look into using a thicker PVC foam, but I originally dismissed because of the weight penalties over using a PVC/XPS double wall design. I am still in 'thinking phase', but as I build out the interior I am sure I will get more familiar with how these materials feel and work out, so I am hoping to be able to gain some experience as I get closer to actually working on the shell.
Do you happen to have a build thread? I am interested in how your floor and awning door turned out.
straypoet
Active member
I uploaded a video with some commentary to YouTube on my progress with the transmission.
JK130 December 2021 Update (YOUTUBE link)
I ended up spending a bunch of money this weekend.
$80 on shop supplies
$220 on a new NSG370 Input Shaft (Good deal compared to most places)
$200 on an installation/removal tool for the rear housing of the NSG370
$210 on an OEM seals/bearings kit for the NSG370
$710 Total.
I originally didn't expect to do much to the transmission. It worked fine for 200,000 miles, and other than a small popping out of first gear problem that was intermittent, I had no problems with the transmission. But, after deciding to install the bronze shift plate from Whitbread, I had to crack it open.
I have worked on transmissions before, but this is the first time I have ever done anything with the NSG370. I was very surprised to learn that the shift forks are actually connected to the gearing by pieces of PLASTIC!
Not a fan of that.
Also, as I explain in the video above, removing the rear housing isn't as simple as most transmissions, and requires a lot of force, so I bought the special tool needed for the job.
I decided to replace all bearings since I was inside, and hope to be able to get another 200k miles out of the trans.
The input shaft will be replaced also, as it is worn.
Installed the steering wheel, and working on the seating position while I wait for parts to arrive.
JK130 December 2021 Update (YOUTUBE link)
I ended up spending a bunch of money this weekend.
$80 on shop supplies
$220 on a new NSG370 Input Shaft (Good deal compared to most places)
$200 on an installation/removal tool for the rear housing of the NSG370
$210 on an OEM seals/bearings kit for the NSG370
$710 Total.
I originally didn't expect to do much to the transmission. It worked fine for 200,000 miles, and other than a small popping out of first gear problem that was intermittent, I had no problems with the transmission. But, after deciding to install the bronze shift plate from Whitbread, I had to crack it open.
I have worked on transmissions before, but this is the first time I have ever done anything with the NSG370. I was very surprised to learn that the shift forks are actually connected to the gearing by pieces of PLASTIC!
Not a fan of that.
Also, as I explain in the video above, removing the rear housing isn't as simple as most transmissions, and requires a lot of force, so I bought the special tool needed for the job.
I decided to replace all bearings since I was inside, and hope to be able to get another 200k miles out of the trans.
The input shaft will be replaced also, as it is worn.
Installed the steering wheel, and working on the seating position while I wait for parts to arrive.
rruff
Explorer
You can get clearcoat that does a decent job of protecting epoxy. I have a generic Chinese road bike that is clear over carbon with ~80,000 miles on it... guessing 4-5,000 hrs outdoors. It's starting to look a little shoddy; the clear is brittle and has chipped off in some spots. I did not think clearcoat would be adequate for the outside, but maybe the dash if you cover it when you can.
I think the decision between carbon and FG for walls depends on things like how large the panels are, how insulated you want them to be, how stiff (or flexible!) they need to be, and how much you care about impact protection. Since carbon is much stiffer, it makes more sense on thin panels. On thicker panels the FG is stiff enough, and is better for impact. You could add kevlar to the carbon for better impact, but $$$ and it's a bear to work with. I don't know if you have a specific need for high insulation, but when you get a pretty modest amount of insulation the need for ventilation tends be the biggest heat loss. Plus we are in little boxes, and thick insulation takes away from interior space. Tradeoffs...
No build thread, but the parts I did with carbon came out fine... or at least as good as the FG parts. AFAIK. I haven't finished yet, so no real testing. The floor/base is 4 layers of 11oz carbon on each side, plus a layer of 1808 FG on the top, 2" core. The door is 2 layers of 11oz cabon and one layer of 1700, 1.5" core. The FG adds essentially zero bending strength because it's much less stiff, but it helps with impact.
I've attached a spreadsheet with some cost and weight numbers for different panel options. In the first two examples with PVC foam, the one with FG skins would be quite a bit more robust in my "wack it with a hammer" testing, and yet it's only .12 lb/ft^2 heavier. Stiffness is carbon's forte...
Wet layup on foam is inherently "lumpy". Getting the foam (edge-glued pieces) perfectly flat is not easy... then every time there is a cloth overlap there is a ridge. My ridges are ~.5mm tall which doesn't seem like a lot, but it's very obvious. I fared them a little, but they are still obvious. If that bothers you the only way I know to eliminate it, is to use many layers of thin cloth and sand and fare a lot, or use the thick cloth and sand and fare a crazy amount, or don't make any panels larger than your cloth width, and then only sand and fare the edges (assuming that you make the panels then join them). You could also make molds, but that's a lot of work and isn't sensible for a one-off. Sanding this stuff is not fun. Every time, me and my entire garage are covered in very tiny glass shards...
In my research regarding cheap XPS core, there have been too many failures for me to trust it alone. PVC foam is *much* stronger, and the cells are bigger which gives it a better bond with the epoxy. The last two examples have sort of a wood "frame" inside the core, plus the XPS is textured with a wallpaper roller and epoxy worked in to give it more strength at the surface.
I have experience building another camper 20 years ago. It was most like the cheap option at the bottom, except I used construction glue instead of epoxy and a thicker external coat of FG. If I had this to do again, I think I'd pick that method. Easier, less mess, cheaper, robust enough. Maybe I'd just do a thicker FG on the outside and skip the ply on that surface. The only downside is that you have some wood, so need to make sure external penetrations are sealed, which isn't a big deal, IMO. Idasho built his camper like this too, and it seems to be doing great... but the build thread was deleted?
I think the decision between carbon and FG for walls depends on things like how large the panels are, how insulated you want them to be, how stiff (or flexible!) they need to be, and how much you care about impact protection. Since carbon is much stiffer, it makes more sense on thin panels. On thicker panels the FG is stiff enough, and is better for impact. You could add kevlar to the carbon for better impact, but $$$ and it's a bear to work with. I don't know if you have a specific need for high insulation, but when you get a pretty modest amount of insulation the need for ventilation tends be the biggest heat loss. Plus we are in little boxes, and thick insulation takes away from interior space. Tradeoffs...
No build thread, but the parts I did with carbon came out fine... or at least as good as the FG parts. AFAIK. I haven't finished yet, so no real testing. The floor/base is 4 layers of 11oz carbon on each side, plus a layer of 1808 FG on the top, 2" core. The door is 2 layers of 11oz cabon and one layer of 1700, 1.5" core. The FG adds essentially zero bending strength because it's much less stiff, but it helps with impact.
I've attached a spreadsheet with some cost and weight numbers for different panel options. In the first two examples with PVC foam, the one with FG skins would be quite a bit more robust in my "wack it with a hammer" testing, and yet it's only .12 lb/ft^2 heavier. Stiffness is carbon's forte...
Wet layup on foam is inherently "lumpy". Getting the foam (edge-glued pieces) perfectly flat is not easy... then every time there is a cloth overlap there is a ridge. My ridges are ~.5mm tall which doesn't seem like a lot, but it's very obvious. I fared them a little, but they are still obvious. If that bothers you the only way I know to eliminate it, is to use many layers of thin cloth and sand and fare a lot, or use the thick cloth and sand and fare a crazy amount, or don't make any panels larger than your cloth width, and then only sand and fare the edges (assuming that you make the panels then join them). You could also make molds, but that's a lot of work and isn't sensible for a one-off. Sanding this stuff is not fun. Every time, me and my entire garage are covered in very tiny glass shards...
In my research regarding cheap XPS core, there have been too many failures for me to trust it alone. PVC foam is *much* stronger, and the cells are bigger which gives it a better bond with the epoxy. The last two examples have sort of a wood "frame" inside the core, plus the XPS is textured with a wallpaper roller and epoxy worked in to give it more strength at the surface.
I have experience building another camper 20 years ago. It was most like the cheap option at the bottom, except I used construction glue instead of epoxy and a thicker external coat of FG. If I had this to do again, I think I'd pick that method. Easier, less mess, cheaper, robust enough. Maybe I'd just do a thicker FG on the outside and skip the ply on that surface. The only downside is that you have some wood, so need to make sure external penetrations are sealed, which isn't a big deal, IMO. Idasho built his camper like this too, and it seems to be doing great... but the build thread was deleted?