Just bought a Superduty.

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
Finally my Expo build can begin.

I just bought a white 2008 F250 XL, 4x4, Longbed, Extended Cab, 5.4L, 5r110, Manual xfer case, Dana 60/10.25. I

t's got a couple scratches on the bed, nothing abnormal for us. But the cab is flawless, and the interior is really nice. Apparently it was owned by a Gov contracter in PA. I found the PA inspection papers under the rubber floor. Looks like the kind of wear and tear an electrician would do. No plow marks, no evidence that the hitch was ever used. It had some lucky stones and sand still in the bed. I know phone companies use tons of that, and electricians put that under residential generators.

Here's where you'll start to think I'm crazy, genius, or both. The engine was ticking like a time bomb on the right bank. Poor idle like an old Mustang with a huge cam. But it ran down the freeway ok. Maybe a little down on power. Feels like a bad Cam phaser, maybe a couple coil packs, timing chain tensioner etc. etc. The engine smoothed out a bit after refueling, and it did idle smooth at a couple intersections. Seems like she needs some TLC, but isn't quite dead yet.

I made a low ball price offer $4000 less than the allready decent $15k net price. About enough to cover my mechanic installing a fresh Jasper reman'd engine. If it comes to that. So my worst case senerio is that for my $15k budget, I may end up with a much nicer truck than i expected, and have a fresh engine. Better senerio, my mechanic is able to fix it, and I ended up getting a decent truck for dirt cheap.

Seems like a fair deal to the Ford dealer who couldn't sell a misfiring jalopy to anyone sane. A good deal for me, I have room in the budget to pop a fresh engine in, and still be below the about $15k sticker I was ok paying. Great for my local mechanic. He get's to install an entire engine if he thinks that's the way to go.

It's a gamble, maybe. But the rest of this truck is so stout it was hard to pass up.
I'll have pics soon. I drove it straight to my mechanics garage. He'll take a look inside it Monday.

So am I crazy or what? And yes, I'm tossing a Detroit locker in the rear.
 
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NothingClever

Explorer
Finally my Expo build can begin.

<snip>

I just bought a white 2008 F250 XL, 4x4, Longbed, Extended Cab, 5.4L, 5r110, Manual xfer case, Dana 60/10.25.
So am I crazy or what? And yes, I'm tossing a Detroit locker in the rear.

Crazy? Not at all. You have a great plan and the money in reserve if the worst case scenario comes true. Good work on the budget shopping. I hope I'm as fortunate to line everything up the way you have. Is this for a truck camper? Best of luck with the build.
 
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Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
I have a strong love affair with Lance campers, and the custom pop up campers seen on here. (The ones painted black, it gets cold in Ohio) But I don't plan on having a slide in camper anytime soon. Most of my travel is balenced between roughing it with tents, and hotels and lodges. I have to give and take, can't expect my family and friends to allways want to rough it off road on the top of a mountain. It's also more likely that I would go with a small travel trailer first. (Even though I prefer slide in campers) But that has more to do with the needs of others I have around me, and less my choice.

The truth is, I can do a whole lot of both types of travel before the pricetags on campers start to make sense.

This truck needs to tow 9000 pounds on rare occasions. Haul my dirtbike(s) on the weekend. Cross a soggy muddy farm. Cross a normal sized road side ditch at a 45 degree angle of attack. And take over for my Mustang in the winter.

Over the past two years, I've noticed the best deals on trucks at the end of the year. Lots of trade ins as new models arrive. And lots of corporate trade ins at the end of the fiscal year. (November?)

It's identical to this one that sold before I could test it:
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.j...pe=b&num_records=25&cardist=63&standard=false
and is in about the same condition.
 
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Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
Sounds like you have a decent thought out plan here... Can't wait to see this progress.. Got pics?

Pics will be coming.

I didn't have my camera on me when I bought it. My camera is at home 100miles away. I picked up the truck near my parents house, and delivered it to our mechanic near there. I'm up here visiting during the holiday and using up my paid time off before I lose it. It's identical to the autotrader add above. I'll get some better pics soon I hope. Threads are useless without pics.

I don't even have the truck! I actually have only had the truck for 1 hour. Like having a new toy I can't play with. I took it straight to my mechanic for repairs or a complete Jasper longblock if that is the more reasonable way to go. They said they could look into the engine towards the end of today. I told them to take their time and fit it into thier schedule whenever they can. No rush, I won't need the truck to tow anything until the end of Feb or March.

I just finished researching all the fluids. I'll be changing all the fluids and filters, repacking the manual locking hubs, and replacing the front rotor and pads (good but slightly warped rotor) myself next week.

Fluids are simple:
5r110- Mercon LV ATF (Valvo Ex Life, Redline D6, Royal Purple, and Lucas Multi-vehicle all have M LV compatible ATF)

Nv271- "Ford transfer case fluid" only available at Ford dealers. At least it's only 3-4qts.

Power Steering- Mercon LV ATF

10.25 axles- 75w140 synthetic gear lube

Dana 60- 75w90 standard gear lube

Oil-5w20

Coolant- Any modern premix synthetic. As long as you flush with clean water to get the old stuff out. Apparently it's the EGR on the diesels that's picky on coolant. More than 1000 threads arguing about coolant for a 6.0L diesel. But I just have a simple 5.4, so no big deal.

Brake fluid- ???

I considered tearing into the engine myself, but I know my limits, probally best to let someone who has done this before look into that. If they can fix the engine, there is room in my budget to help a local starving autobody shop. Might get the scratches on the bed and the wear on the cab floor where the driver steps painted to prevent rust. Fix it now while it's cheap and rust free.
 
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Halligan

Adventurer
If the truck is out of warranty I would not sweat the tranfer case fluid. Dodge uses the same T-case and specs their ATF +4 which is a synthetic ATF. Plus you can find it ATF +4 anywhere.
 

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
Thanks. It's likely I'll use the same Royal purple ATF in the transmission and transfer case.

Found a local hitch company that carries Curt 2" hitch recievers:
http://curtmfg.com/index.cfm?event=prodetail&id=55&categoryid=31
I'll most likely use the more adjustable 43841 or 43842 for my 2 5/16" pintle-ball setup. Those are a bit large, but if they reach my tailgate or something I'll just cut the excess adjustment off with a torch.

Brake controller:
http://www.trucontrol.com/brake_controller/trucontrol_gold_features.html
Look small enough to mount right to the dash.
 

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
Update:

My truck just became a $17,000-18000 truck. My mechanic quotes high. But I just bought $4000 in parts, so the labor is most likely $1500-2000.

The engine is toast, oiling problems take out the cam phaser, cam phaser takes out the cam and rockers. Enough scars on the inside that we can't trust this 5.4 to tow 10k from Florida to Ohio.

A bit over my original used truck budget, but well below the value of this truck on the market which seems to hover around 20,000. I looked at a nearly identical truck at Classic Fords used lot yesterday before I ok'd this quote, it was $19,995 but had a short bed and manual.

I don't really mind, because thats alot of new equipment going in, and it'll all be without the oil and sparkplug problems.
I'm having my mechanic do the whole shebang. Only things concernng the engine not being replaced are the ECM and Fuel Pump. Radiator and coolers are in brand new shape allready. I'm doing the brakes and fluids myself later on.
 
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Saiyan66

Adventurer
Sounds like you will still make out good on everything when all is said and done. As far as the brake fluid is concerned, I use silicone based Castrol fluid in my vehicles as it is still relatively inexpensive and is much less hydroscopic (wants to absorb water) than standard brake fluid.
 

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
Oh, good. That's the same fluid I put in my Mustang. It had a higher temp rating than the other stuff in the store.
 

Saiyan66

Adventurer
The manual t-case is the NV271 and the electric is the NV273. Other than the shift mechanism they are the same. Both are fixed yoke cases in the Fords, and slip yoke cases in the Dodge.
 

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