Hello, new guy here to the LC world. I have extensive experience with a full sized 4x4 truck. This is a new start on a used LC. I just bought a very clean 1992 4x4 v6 LC (champagne color) with all the options. It was impulsive, I know nothing about them other then Toyota reliability. It has 110,000 miles and is an automatic. I bought it from a co-worker that just put brand new tires on it and did a tune up. I paid $4000 out the door, is that an ok price? Give me some details about this ride, are there some internet sites you can direct me too? Thanks in advance! Jason
Just bought my first LC, tell me about it!!
- Thread starter LXRACR
- Start date
SLOwag
Adventurer
Congrats on your new rig!
That engine looks clean but start with some baseline maintenance unless you have records of that being done already. Sometimes these rigs suffer because they can go so long without maintenance.
Go where Bighead sent you. I don't have an 80 but start by searching for head gasket and PHH...FAQ's for the 80 are here:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-t...-leather-replacement-w-links-seat-heater.html
That engine looks clean but start with some baseline maintenance unless you have records of that being done already. Sometimes these rigs suffer because they can go so long without maintenance.
Go where Bighead sent you. I don't have an 80 but start by searching for head gasket and PHH...FAQ's for the 80 are here:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-t...-leather-replacement-w-links-seat-heater.html
You've got a '92 which means a 3FE and no PHH or HG issues. It also means it's slow, but will run forever. It isn't a V-6. Real Land Cruisers are I-6, just like this one. It may even be possible to swap a 5 speed into this one. Anyway, it's an excellent truck and if it's clean and running well, $4000 is a fair price. I've paid more for a lot less! At those miles it is just getting broken in (seriously).
You can make a strong argument that the 91-92 are the ideal years for a trail 80. It's harder to make that case on the road, since the motor was upgraded in a major way in 1993.
First up--Base line all the fluids and grease, drain and fill the AT (don't flush). It is probably better to run a little heavier oil in the motor than the manual recommends 15w-40 would be an excellent choice.
Enjoy the truck, you can fit 33 inch tires without a lift, but if you do lift it, the OME heavy is a very good starting point, then in a few years, maybe a Slee 4 inch.
Get over to ih8mud and read up.
You can make a strong argument that the 91-92 are the ideal years for a trail 80. It's harder to make that case on the road, since the motor was upgraded in a major way in 1993.
First up--Base line all the fluids and grease, drain and fill the AT (don't flush). It is probably better to run a little heavier oil in the motor than the manual recommends 15w-40 would be an excellent choice.
Enjoy the truck, you can fit 33 inch tires without a lift, but if you do lift it, the OME heavy is a very good starting point, then in a few years, maybe a Slee 4 inch.
Get over to ih8mud and read up.
upcruiser
Perpetual Transient
Congrats! Sounds like it could be a great truck. I'm a '92 owner too and have loved mine. The biggest gripe everyone has is power, but honestly, none of the I6 cruisers are by any stretch of the imagination, fast. Highway speeds in the mountains can be challenging, but I've driven mine all over the country a bunch of times and its never been that big of a deal, even loaded to the gills. Besides Mud, go to Slee Offroad's site and click on the newbie guide. Good info there as well.
Pskhaat
2005 Expedition Trophy Champion
Looks good, you have at least another 290,000 miles out of her before a rebuild. You can then plan on doing that for a good million+ miles 
Anyway, at least the engine compartment looks very clean; please check your spark plugs as you may wish to make sure they are Toyota/NipponDenso. Looks like an aftermarket white oil filter in there? Go to a 'yota dealership and get a 15600-41010 filter. Just two suggestions from an LC nut.
Next, buy a few EFI relays. They're cheap but are known to fail. If someone would call me up and say my 3F-E LC isn't starting the first thing I'd do would be to swap an extra EFI relay in.
Great year for the LC.
Anyway, at least the engine compartment looks very clean; please check your spark plugs as you may wish to make sure they are Toyota/NipponDenso. Looks like an aftermarket white oil filter in there? Go to a 'yota dealership and get a 15600-41010 filter. Just two suggestions from an LC nut.
Next, buy a few EFI relays. They're cheap but are known to fail. If someone would call me up and say my 3F-E LC isn't starting the first thing I'd do would be to swap an extra EFI relay in.
Great year for the LC.
Congrats on your FJ80. Sounds like you got it for a steal with only 110K miles. Let me tell you, these things are addicting. Within a week of buying mine I threw on an OME 2.5" lift, and 33 inch tires. I am going to spend next weekend doing a full service - tuneup, drain and fill tranny, transfer case, fr and rr diffs etc.
From what I have read, these things are bullet proof as long as they are maintained. Good luck.
From what I have read, these things are bullet proof as long as they are maintained. Good luck.
dieselcruiserhead
16 Years on ExPo. Whoa!!
Some friends have converted theirs to part time 4WD using the kit from www.sleeoffroad.com and love the added power and mileage. The biggest thing is as you increase tire sizes is to pay close attention/ spend the money to match the axle gearing otherwise what power you have instantly vanishes, and you still get piss poor mileage. I would run maybe 33" tires and 4.88 gears, install ARB air lockers at the time when you are doing the gears, and a mild lift, and you will have an unstoppable rig that will go anywhere, shouldn't get much worse mileage, and run forever... Cheers!
MaddBaggins
Explorer
110k miles on a 92, very nice! Good find for 4 grand. Congrats.
Pskhaat
2005 Expedition Trophy Champion
LXRACR said:
Yes, and if they don't it is an easy add. It locks the center differential so that you have have equal speed and unequal torque to the front and rear axle. Without it locked both axles will maintain equal torque and allow thus (obviously) for front and rear prop shaft speed differences.