Keep Tahoe or step up to Suburban?

[Dusty_Tahoe]

If you're already thinking suburban go ahead and do it before you put a lot of work and money into the Tahoe and then upgrade. While you're at it, get a 2500 Suburban. But, if the issue is being able to sleep in the vehicle why not get a van. Or, have a look at a pick-up with a truck camper. You should be able to just leave a fairly small camper on all the time. You wouldn't need to park it separately from the truck.

I'd be camping in the summer, still in college. Plus the suburban is a good daily driver and fairly capable off-road. I need an everyday driver first and a camping vehicle second if that makes sense.
Don't have space for a camper as much as I'd like it.

A few have mentioned it, but I think it deserves more attention: Going to a Burb will let you upgrade to a 2500. Stronger engine, trans, axles, suspension. All the things the 1500 guys look at upgrading. Mine fit 315s with the stock rear air ride, and just front keys...

I have thought about it, but it seems as though the 1500 parts are much more readily available. The 4l80 is tempting though. How is the ride with the keys?

 

[Martinjmpr]

Make sure to get one with hydroboost, maybe 04+. I think 05+ got e-fans and maybe a dash upgrade (double din). Really the 3/4 tons are getting pretty cheap. Can't go wrong with a Suburban.

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04 was the big "mid cycle refresh." Double DIN, hydroboost, better dashboard layout etc. 05 and 06 upgrades were mild by comparison (the biggest 05 upgrade I can think of is that the TPMS would show you individual tire pressures, I kind of wish mine did that.)
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I have thought about it, but it seems as though the 1500 parts are much more readily available. The 4l80 is tempting though. How is the ride with the keys?

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A 1500 will be significantly cheaper to buy and cheaper to keep. For what you need I think a 2500 would be overkill. Also much easier to find a 1500 in exactly the trim level you want, if you are shopping for a 2500 (which are very rare) you will pretty much have to take what you can get.
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I won't lie, the 4L60 transmission is a known weak point. IMO the best way to deal with it is to either (a) go ahead and get it rebuilt when the vehicle is at ~150k just for peace of mind, or (b) sock away $2k for a rebuild "if and when" and if you don't need it (not everybody does) then you have $2k for other stuff.
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Other than the transmissions, though, the rest of the drivetrain is rock solid. The 5.3 is a great all around motor, the T-case and axles will last as long as you need them to last if you don't abuse them. The coil spring suspension is very comfortable and easy to lift if you want to do that. 31 gallons in the gas tank gives you pretty good range with the 5.3.
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Up through 04 you could still get barn doors (cargo doors) in the back. IMO the lift gate is more practical (and it's nice to have a little shelter from the rain when you are loading stuff in the back) but I have to admit the barn doors look "salty." Barn doors are also great if you carry a lot of stuff on the roof (though to be fair, we almost always travel with 2 kayaks on the roof and accessing them has never been an issue even with the lift gate.)
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As far as the value of a Suburban vs. a Tahoe, my signature says it all....:sombrero:

 

[Dusty_Tahoe]

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04 was the big "mid cycle refresh." Double DIN, hydroboost, better dashboard layout etc. 05 and 06 upgrades were mild by comparison (the biggest 05 upgrade I can think of is that the TPMS would show you individual tire pressures, I kind of wish mine did that.)
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A 1500 will be significantly cheaper to buy and cheaper to keep. For what you need I think a 2500 would be overkill. Also much easier to find a 1500 in exactly the trim level you want, if you are shopping for a 2500 (which are very rare) you will pretty much have to take what you can get.
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I won't lie, the 4L60 transmission is a known weak point. IMO the best way to deal with it is to either (a) go ahead and get it rebuilt when the vehicle is at ~150k just for peace of mind, or (b) sock away $2k for a rebuild "if and when" and if you don't need it (not everybody does) then you have $2k for other stuff.
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Other than the transmissions, though, the rest of the drivetrain is rock solid. The 5.3 is a great all around motor, the T-case and axles will last as long as you need them to last if you don't abuse them. The coil spring suspension is very comfortable and easy to lift if you want to do that. 31 gallons in the gas tank gives you pretty good range with the 5.3.
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Up through 04 you could still get barn doors (cargo doors) in the back. IMO the lift gate is more practical (and it's nice to have a little shelter from the rain when you are loading stuff in the back) but I have to admit the barn doors look "salty." Barn doors are also great if you carry a lot of stuff on the roof (though to be fair, we almost always travel with 2 kayaks on the roof and accessing them has never been an issue even with the lift gate.)
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As far as the value of a Suburban vs. a Tahoe, my signature says it all....:sombrero:

I do like my liftgate, nice having rear window wipers and heated glass.
I'm pretty particular in what I want, definitely want a leather interior, would prefer smooth ride (ZW7 option I believe)

I think the 2500 is a bit much for me, if I stumble upon one then maybe I'd consider it.

Has anyone on here swapped in a 4l80 on the 1500 trucks?

 

[XJLI]

No reason to swap. If the 4l60 dies, get a HD rebuild.

 

[Dusty_Tahoe]

No reason to swap. If the 4l60 dies, get a HD rebuild.

What is the difference between the HD or the standard 4l60?

 

[Martinjmpr]

No reason to swap. If the 4l60 dies, get a HD rebuild.

This. The 4l80 is physically longer than the 4L60 so swapping in a 4L80 means moving the transfer case, lengthening front driveshaft and shortening rear driveshaft, fabricating new transmission mounts, etc. It can be done but why? It's like using a sledgehammer to swat a fly.
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The only people I've seen swapping 4L80's into a Suburban are people who have 2wd versions. It does mean some fabricating and shortening the driveshaft but otherwise easier.

 

[Old Griz]

I have an 2001 K2500 8.1L 4l80e G80 locker.
If you want to do a burb, I would say go with a 2500. They come with everything on a Z71 package as far as skid plates and bilsteins with the auto ride system. All that and the way mine is equipped it is rated to pull 12,000 pounds.

 

[ajmaudio]

by hd rebuild they mean having it rebuilt with upgraded components. The 4l60e is a very mature design with a large aftermarket supporting it. A mild performance rebuild will support 500hp and shift much less like a soccer mom slush box. Check out monster transmission for more info and an idea on pricing. The best thing you can do for now, and for later, is put a real trans cooler on.

 

[rayra]

Google 4L65E for more info on the 'HD upgrade'


From reading many anecdotes it seems to me that 275F is the death knell / threshhold for the 4L60E. Put 4-5k trailer on it, drive it hard and long up a huge grade, run it hot and keep it there, keep it straining at a very high rpm, and you can kiss it goodbye.

This isn't much of a margin, given the factory thermostat will have you running ~195F+ routinely. And the typical non-tow-package is routed thru the radiator tank normally and even the tow package has a very small external cooler (after the in-tank portion) which isn't placed very well.
I discovered by accident that there are 160F thermostats available and have yet to find any hard tech reason not to use it. And I have been. I also added a large aftermarket trans cooler - retaining the in-tank loop - and my trans temps are now ridiculously low. Instead of a 75F 'safety margin', I now have a 175F margin. Some details are in my build topic, linked in my sig.

GMT800 k1500 Subs can be had from $5500-7000. And about $500 lower for the GMC / YukonXL branding.

My fiendishly clever plan was to wind up with one of each, at the same time. 'Get Both'.

 

[Dusty_Tahoe]

by hd rebuild they mean having it rebuilt with upgraded components. The 4l60e is a very mature design with a large aftermarket supporting it. A mild performance rebuild will support 500hp and shift much less like a soccer mom slush box. Check out monster transmission for more info and an idea on pricing. The best thing you can do for now, and for later, is put a real trans cooler on.

Ah got it, what brand do you recommend? I am planning on draining the transmission to replace the filter and may take a look at the valve body, I've heard that's the first thing to go, and that it'll take a gear or two with it.

Google 4L65E for more info on the 'HD upgrade'


From reading many anecdotes it seems to me that 275F is the death knell / threshhold for the 4L60E. Put 4-5k trailer on it, drive it hard and long up a huge grade, run it hot and keep it there, keep it straining at a very high rpm, and you can kiss it goodbye.

This isn't much of a margin, given the factory thermostat will have you running ~195F+ routinely. And the typical non-tow-package is routed thru the radiator tank normally and even the tow package has a very small external cooler (after the in-tank portion) which isn't placed very well.
I discovered by accident that there are 160F thermostats available and have yet to find any hard tech reason not to use it. And I have been. I also added a large aftermarket trans cooler - retaining the in-tank loop - and my trans temps are now ridiculously low. Instead of a 75F 'safety margin', I now have a 175F margin. Some details are in my build topic, linked in my sig.

GMT800 k1500 Subs can be had from $5500-7000. And about $500 lower for the GMC / YukonXL branding.

My fiendishly clever plan was to wind up with one of each, at the same time. 'Get Both'.

My next step is to get a new cluster with the transmission temp gauge in it, found some on eBay for $200 which doesn't seem like a bad idea.
I have the tow package but really don't tow as of now. Summer I will probably be loading my mustang on a trailer to go to the track.
How long did it take to put in the new cooler and thermostat?

 

[TexomaPowerboater]

I would step up into a suburban for no other reason than you can get a 3/4 ton, which will hold value better in addition to hauling/towing more weight.

 

[rayra]

less than a day to do both and make it driveable, longer to make it pretty. I still haven't got around to fitting proper compression fittings on the lines I cut. Just rubber hoses and ladder clamps. IIRC the metal line O.D. is 3/8", so I really have no good excuse for not having yet made a proper job of the trans cooler plumbing. I wrapped some split heater hose on a couple areas where things might chafe. But that was over 4mos ago.

Spend a few bucks more and change both the main s-belt tensioner AND the AC belt and its tensioner too, while you are doing the thermostat. You'll have the main belt and tensioner off for the thermostat swap anyway. The thermostat is ridiculously easy. They really did a good job of making these Vortec motors easy to service. Much better than the old SBC designs, there no interferences or non-related bracketry in the way, for most engine-related work.

 

[Dusty_Tahoe]

Well I just found some guy on facebook selling a suburban who's willing to trade for my tahoe, hope it all goes well and I'll be in a burb sooner than I thought I'd be.
It's an 03 1500, LT, all the options my truck has except for sunroof. Body looks clean in photos but I'll be checking it out soon. Interior is also really clean
Also has rear entertainment, not sure if I need that but guess I'll find out!

 

[Martinjmpr]

My next step is to get a new cluster with the transmission temp gauge in it, found some on eBay for $200 which doesn't seem like a bad idea.

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Instrument clusters are another common fail point with the GMT-800 trucks. Usually the stepper motors go out and need to be replaced. If you're handy with a soldering iron you can replace them yourself. I'm not so I paid $300 to a place called Circuit Board Medics. They not only rebuilt my entire cluster with brand new stepper motors, they also added green LEDs and a transmission temp gauge (far left):
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As with most other GM repairs, there are plenty of places around that work on instrument clusters, in fact there may be one in your town. Circuit Board Medics was in South Carolina and I just unbolted my instrument panel (literally 4 bolts and 1 electrical clip and the whole thing lifts out) and mailed it to them. A week later I had it back. And the truck is driveable without the instrument cluster (although obviously you won't know your speed, fuel tank status, etc.)

 

[rayra]

And if you are handy with a soldering iron I've got a bunch of cluster how-to stuff in my 'Hey Vortec Guys' topic