KGH's LR4 Light Build Thread
- Thread starter Kgh
- Start date
The bumper for the 3 and 4 are totally different. So a skid for a 4 won't fit a 3.
I have the genuine Mantec winch sump guard for my 3. Cost me £25. I sold my old sump plate for £125 which is what i paid for it 2 years earlier and i had abused the hell out of it.
Also have the genuine external winch mount for mine, just need a winch and rope for it.
I love the HSE Lux as a trim level, It would be the only step up from my HSE D3, like you, i'm not a fan of the grill or the longer rails.
I have the genuine Mantec winch sump guard for my 3. Cost me £25. I sold my old sump plate for £125 which is what i paid for it 2 years earlier and i had abused the hell out of it.
Also have the genuine external winch mount for mine, just need a winch and rope for it.
I love the HSE Lux as a trim level, It would be the only step up from my HSE D3, like you, i'm not a fan of the grill or the longer rails.
Kgh
Let’s go already!
If I get it across the state to him, yes.
Kgh
Let’s go already!
You got a hell of a deal!
Kgh
Let’s go already!
Wheels and Tires
My recently purchased LR3 five spoke wheels looked fairly decent, but the insides were caked with baked on brake dust and grime, and there was some oxidation on finish on the wheel faces. Wife said "It's a nice truck, make them look nice", so they are off to powdercoat for a gunmetal semi-gloss makeover.
Powdercoating is a little pricey, but they are 1 mile away. They do mostly marine and dock stuff. Their oven is huge, and could fit a car. It was either pay a little more, or take them an hour away to Homestead/Miami area.
Sourced 4 new Cooper AT3, 265/65-18. Tire opinions vary, but I had these on the DII, and liked them. Bought the road hazard "certificates" for $19.00/per tire also. Non-prorated replacement. Should have spacers, wheels, and tires on by end of the week, then off for alignment, pending work schedule.
And the wife gets three metal chairs and a 4' tall antique birdcage coated too. Everybody's happy!
Speking of wife, some ************ hit her Wrangler in a parking lot. Gouged the bejesus out of front fender, right through paint. No note, nothing.
Florida sucks. (Now go back to Jersey/Michigan/Ottowa/Massachusetts and tell your friends!)
My recently purchased LR3 five spoke wheels looked fairly decent, but the insides were caked with baked on brake dust and grime, and there was some oxidation on finish on the wheel faces. Wife said "It's a nice truck, make them look nice", so they are off to powdercoat for a gunmetal semi-gloss makeover.
Powdercoating is a little pricey, but they are 1 mile away. They do mostly marine and dock stuff. Their oven is huge, and could fit a car. It was either pay a little more, or take them an hour away to Homestead/Miami area.
Sourced 4 new Cooper AT3, 265/65-18. Tire opinions vary, but I had these on the DII, and liked them. Bought the road hazard "certificates" for $19.00/per tire also. Non-prorated replacement. Should have spacers, wheels, and tires on by end of the week, then off for alignment, pending work schedule.
And the wife gets three metal chairs and a 4' tall antique birdcage coated too. Everybody's happy!
Speking of wife, some ************ hit her Wrangler in a parking lot. Gouged the bejesus out of front fender, right through paint. No note, nothing.
Florida sucks. (Now go back to Jersey/Michigan/Ottowa/Massachusetts and tell your friends!)
Hey, I'm in the boat biz and even though Florida is the 50 yard line for yachting in America you won't find me moving there! I call it Flatistan. I'm pretty sure highway onramps are the only curves and overpasses the high points. 
On the tires, let me know if you have any rubbing at full lock. I don't think you will, but I did the AT/3s in 275/65-18 on a friend's LR4 using spacers and LR3 wheels and had to do some trimming at the frame horns at the rear of the front tires, a little plastic trimming at the bottom front of the fronts, and of course move the heater plumbing and body seam on the right rear. All pretty much standard stuff, but I'm guessing the 265s will make it work a little easier. I'm also curious where you found the AT/3 in 265/65-18 - their website only shows 275/65, not the 265. I had recommended she go with 265s, but she wanted an E rated all -terrain that was good on road and in moderate off-road so she went with the Cooper. She has been happy with them, but there was more trimming than I had expected.
On the tires, let me know if you have any rubbing at full lock. I don't think you will, but I did the AT/3s in 275/65-18 on a friend's LR4 using spacers and LR3 wheels and had to do some trimming at the frame horns at the rear of the front tires, a little plastic trimming at the bottom front of the fronts, and of course move the heater plumbing and body seam on the right rear. All pretty much standard stuff, but I'm guessing the 265s will make it work a little easier. I'm also curious where you found the AT/3 in 265/65-18 - their website only shows 275/65, not the 265. I had recommended she go with 265s, but she wanted an E rated all -terrain that was good on road and in moderate off-road so she went with the Cooper. She has been happy with them, but there was more trimming than I had expected.
Kgh
Let’s go already!
Zelatore,
Other than checking on placement of the sensor wire up front, I am hoping I am good.
255/50= 30."
265/65= 31.6"
276/65= 32.1"
275s are 2.1 inch bigger diameter than stock, and .79 wider than stock 20s.
I am increasing 1.6 inches.
I am also increasing width by .39". And with spacers should not hit frame horns.
All in on tires with warranty: 770.00 to my door. Discount Tire Direct.
Hopefully all fits well.
Other than checking on placement of the sensor wire up front, I am hoping I am good.
255/50= 30."
265/65= 31.6"
276/65= 32.1"
275s are 2.1 inch bigger diameter than stock, and .79 wider than stock 20s.
I am increasing 1.6 inches.
I am also increasing width by .39". And with spacers should not hit frame horns.
All in on tires with warranty: 770.00 to my door. Discount Tire Direct.
Hopefully all fits well.
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Wow. I wish I could have gotten away with that tire bill! I just bought 5 275/70-18 Cooper STT Pros for my rig. Let's just say it was a little more than that. :Wow1:
Definitely move the sensor wiring on the driver's front. After that, check the following:
Rears-
On the passenger side, at about the 3 o'clock position, you'll see a bulge in the plastic fender liner. Under it is a body seam, and if you have rear HVAC, 2 aluminum engine coolant tubes. This is a common rub area when you are fully compressed, or when you corner (semi) hard on the street. Remove the outer wheel arch and you can pull the liner out. If you have the rear HVAC you'll need to re-route the aluminum lines. I've had some success in carefully bending them to fit into a 'pocket' you will see outboard of their current location, sort of behind the wheel arch. But be prepared to crack one. It's actually just as easy to simply replace them with 5/8" heater hose. If you follow them you'll see they have junctions just under the door sill (forward) and just after the wheel well (aft). Once they are re-routed, you can take a hammer and simply mash the body seam flat. If you don't have the rear HVAC, just go straight to the hammer. With that done re-install the plastics then use a heat gun to slowly soften the bulge where the seam/plumbing used to be and you can sort of squash it flat. If you don't, at least when you rub it it will only be plastic and won't hurt anything other than making an annoying noise. You will eventually self-clearance anyway.
You have the same thing on the driver's side, but there are no HVAC lines, just the body seam.
Fronts-
Check for rubbing at full or near-full lock at the lower rear of the wheel well. There is a box-section piece of frame sticking forward that is a common rub-point. Light rubbing isn't an issue as it's smooth (won't tear up the tire) and steel (tire won't tear it up). But if you have heavier rubbing, the answer is to cut it off then weld a new piece of flat plate in place. Do take care if you're welding on the car - disconnect the battery and be careful not to catch the plastics on fire.
Also check for contact at the trailing edge of the airdam at the front of the wheel well. On LR4s I've had to remove the small 'scoops' that screw on here and do some minor trimming. I use a high-speed body saw to trim the plastic when I can, but a hack saw, dremel tool, or even a good knife and some persistance will get it done.
Let us know how it goes. And you reminded me that I need to weigh my Coopers!
Definitely move the sensor wiring on the driver's front. After that, check the following:
Rears-
On the passenger side, at about the 3 o'clock position, you'll see a bulge in the plastic fender liner. Under it is a body seam, and if you have rear HVAC, 2 aluminum engine coolant tubes. This is a common rub area when you are fully compressed, or when you corner (semi) hard on the street. Remove the outer wheel arch and you can pull the liner out. If you have the rear HVAC you'll need to re-route the aluminum lines. I've had some success in carefully bending them to fit into a 'pocket' you will see outboard of their current location, sort of behind the wheel arch. But be prepared to crack one. It's actually just as easy to simply replace them with 5/8" heater hose. If you follow them you'll see they have junctions just under the door sill (forward) and just after the wheel well (aft). Once they are re-routed, you can take a hammer and simply mash the body seam flat. If you don't have the rear HVAC, just go straight to the hammer. With that done re-install the plastics then use a heat gun to slowly soften the bulge where the seam/plumbing used to be and you can sort of squash it flat. If you don't, at least when you rub it it will only be plastic and won't hurt anything other than making an annoying noise. You will eventually self-clearance anyway.
You have the same thing on the driver's side, but there are no HVAC lines, just the body seam.
Fronts-
Check for rubbing at full or near-full lock at the lower rear of the wheel well. There is a box-section piece of frame sticking forward that is a common rub-point. Light rubbing isn't an issue as it's smooth (won't tear up the tire) and steel (tire won't tear it up). But if you have heavier rubbing, the answer is to cut it off then weld a new piece of flat plate in place. Do take care if you're welding on the car - disconnect the battery and be careful not to catch the plastics on fire.
Also check for contact at the trailing edge of the airdam at the front of the wheel well. On LR4s I've had to remove the small 'scoops' that screw on here and do some minor trimming. I use a high-speed body saw to trim the plastic when I can, but a hack saw, dremel tool, or even a good knife and some persistance will get it done.
Let us know how it goes. And you reminded me that I need to weigh my Coopers!
Kgh
Let’s go already!
Good, bad, ugly
What air pressure are you running for street? F ?, R ?.
Good= Zelatore's step by step instructions. Of course I have rear air, and require a little more work.
Bad= one of my new to me LR3 rims is a tad out of true. It is ok for now, but I am sure it would manifest in tire wear over life of tire. So now it is find one rim, get powdercoated, and relegate out of true rim to spare status.
Ugly= Powdercoater left sticky tire weights in one wheel. Luckily, the paint I bought for the center caps matches well, and I just hit that small rectangle of non powdercoated inner rim.
Genuine LR TPMS are not registering.... The Amazon seller said they would..looking in to.
While waiting at tire shop, some Jersey tourista curbed and shredded the 2 drivers side 22 inchers on his wife's car, a brand new looking Alpina B7. That will cost him dearly, I bet. Makes both our tires and rims look inexpensive!
What air pressure are you running for street? F ?, R ?.
Good= Zelatore's step by step instructions. Of course I have rear air, and require a little more work.
Bad= one of my new to me LR3 rims is a tad out of true. It is ok for now, but I am sure it would manifest in tire wear over life of tire. So now it is find one rim, get powdercoated, and relegate out of true rim to spare status.
Ugly= Powdercoater left sticky tire weights in one wheel. Luckily, the paint I bought for the center caps matches well, and I just hit that small rectangle of non powdercoated inner rim.
Genuine LR TPMS are not registering.... The Amazon seller said they would..looking in to.
While waiting at tire shop, some Jersey tourista curbed and shredded the 2 drivers side 22 inchers on his wife's car, a brand new looking Alpina B7. That will cost him dearly, I bet. Makes both our tires and rims look inexpensive!
Kgh
Let’s go already!
Took a little road trip to see wife's family, and spent 3 nights on the road. First and third night were in RTT, second was a hotel due to fact that the state park we stopped at was....closed. Gates locked up, roads covered in leaves like no traffic in weeks. Also was 25 degrees, and windy.
The third night was in Mark Twain National Forest. Beautiful area on the North Fork river, fantastic view, had park to ourselves. Really, not another soul around. We saw one truck drive through in the AM.
Quiet, sound of the river, and crackiling of the campfire, and a good cup of coffee. Happy wife, happy dog. Great evening. Then on to Omaha via twisty state roads in rural Missouri.
The third night was in Mark Twain National Forest. Beautiful area on the North Fork river, fantastic view, had park to ourselves. Really, not another soul around. We saw one truck drive through in the AM.
Quiet, sound of the river, and crackiling of the campfire, and a good cup of coffee. Happy wife, happy dog. Great evening. Then on to Omaha via twisty state roads in rural Missouri.
