Land Rover U-joints

[R_Lefebvre]

Yes, zerk in the end cap. And I like the clips they came with. Workable with pliers so I don't have to worry about potentially futzing around with C-clips in the field.

So that is a Neapco? How does the Precision compare? Better/worse?

First time I've done a U-joint, but wasn't too hard.

 

[timmy!!!!!!!]

I really like the U-joints that have the zerk in the cap. Makes life really easy when greasing them up. Although if I were you already tearing into that area I would change it out to a U-joint driveshaft.

 

[Antichrist]

So that is a Neapco?

Yes. At least Neapco is the only 1300 I've seen with the zerk in the end cap.

How does the Precision compare?

I've used/use both and haven't seen any real difference other than price and the different location for the zerk.
All other things being equal a u-joint with the zerk in the end cap is going to be stronger though.

 

[bobtail4x4]

I cant see a grease point in that UJ?

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Although if I were you already tearing into that area I would change it out to a U-joint driveshaft.

I don't want to get rid of the rotoflex. I want to keep it for the reason it was spec'd in the first place. It's not just $50 for a Ujoint, you need a new driveshaft, and the drive flange for the axle. Then you need to rotate the pinion down to get the U-joint angles right, as they are not right for a Ujoint in the rear at the moment. I'll just carry the old one around for emergencies.

I cant see a grease point in that UJ?

It's in one of the end caps you can't see.

 

[sven]

I have a Neapco in my stash, and it has the same markings on it as yours.

Oh, and the Neapco box also says PDQ Made in the USA.

 

[muskyman]

Yes, zerk in the end cap. And I like the clips they came with. Workable with pliers so I don't have to worry about potentially futzing around with C-clips in the field.

So that is a Neapco? How does the Precision compare? Better/worse?

First time I've done a U-joint, but wasn't too hard.

first time for a u-joint but you are doing a complete trans swap?

Rob I give you credit for attacking this swap with very little experience

 

[revor]

To the missing zerk thing. I run 1310 joints in all my trucks. That's given me the opportunity to try an experiment using sealed joints. One truck has sealed the other greasable. I hate to say it but it's 1 to 0 in favor of the sealed. I'll be honest the sealed are in Karen's Disco but she drives better that twice as many miles as I do and wheels more than I do (and she's not mechanically compasionate). I'm pretty religious about maintaining my trucks which is why I probably don't get to wheel much. I snapped a 1310 clean in half early this summer one of the caps had no grease in it.. Neapco brand.

Both trucks spent a good time in the water last fall and early this spring.

 

[Antichrist]

I snapped a 1310 clean in half early this summer one of the caps had no grease in it..

Yeah, you sorta need to grease them if you're not running sealed u-joints. :sombrero:

 

[R_Lefebvre]

first time for a u-joint but you are doing a complete trans swap?

Rob I give you credit for attacking this swap with very little experience

I've changed the diff in a FWD transaxle before, but other than that, nope.

 

[timmy!!!!!!!]

I don't want to get rid of the rotoflex. I want to keep it for the reason it was spec'd in the first place. It's not just $50 for a Ujoint, you need a new driveshaft, and the drive flange for the axle. Then you need to rotate the pinion down to get the U-joint angles right, as they are not right for a Ujoint in the rear at the moment. I'll just carry the old one around for emergencies.

It's in one of the end caps you can't see.

I have done the swap before on my 97 disco so I know the parts involved but the U-joint driveshaft is a lot more forgiving and later 97 to 99 discos all had u-joint rear driveshafts and most RRC trucks. The rubber donut is just not worth keeping around...

 

[R_Lefebvre]

For me, it's so easy to change, and I never had a problem with my old donut, now that I'm replacing it I'm just not too concerned. Of course, now with the 5speed, it'll be harder to be so smooth in the technical stuff so... I'll just carry a spare, if it becomes a problem I'll do something.