LATEST PROJECT - Truck Drawers/Sleeping Platform

The idea of using the tank to hold hot water was thrown around briefly, but the reality is that we need cold water far more frequently than hot water. The system is still holding up well but we still need to implement the new auxiliary pump for the coolant loop.

Awesome build. Great job. I wonder if you have thought of using your water tank as a heat source by heating it with an exchanger while you are driving and then reversing the heat exchanger to heat the interior as well as have hot water when camping. You would have to insulate the tank to keep cold damp air off it in order to prevent condensation. Heating it to around 110F degrees would be a good compromise.
 

motor-vater

Observer
Amazing build, thank you for sharing. You actually not only inspired me to finally make mine but gave me several ideas to implement. Not to mention I am no longer just a lurker on the portal...lol

1 question though if I could, did u vent your water tank and if so how?
 

Ozarker

Well-known member
As a thank you to all of those EXPO members that have posted their ideas in the past - I give you the following in hopes that others will be able to gain as much from me.

...

My wife and I are heading to Alaska for three weeks this season. An incredible road-trip to say the least with some biking, paddling, climbing and some serious relaxing thrown in to keep it all interesting. We are both very experienced backcountry (hiking) travelers, but we wanted something faster and more convenient this time around. Hence, I turned to EXPO to see what you are all up to.

Wow! So many options. Drawers, fridge slides, showers, etc. What to do?

I spent MONTHS scouring websites and making notes. Drawing plans and erasing plans. When it all came together, I decided to design and build a fully custom truck drawer/sleeping platform system that would house two 4.5ft drawers, on-board fresh water (hot & cold), AND a canopy heater just for good measure!

Here are the results of my efforts - and your inspiration!

FINISHED PRODUCT

IMG_1212.JPG


THE GUTS

The workings of the on-board fresh water tank and the accompanying pumps, heat exchangers, valves, etc. were all built into one unit behind the cab, bolted to the utili-trac for security. I managed to find an 18 gallon (72 litre) polyethylene tank that was a great contender. Everything was really built around that. All battery power and coolant lines from the engine are securely routed along the passenger-side of the chassis and enter the box through a grommet in the corner.
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To give a better idea of what is happening, the engine coolant enters the box, goes through the canopy heater on the far right (controlled via the thermostat sitting at the top of the picture) then through the dual-helix heat exchanger to the left then returns to the engine. The water comes from the tank, pumped via the 12V pump and then splits - half to the heat exchanger to continue to the hot water faucet, the other half directly to to the cold water faucet. The red valve in this picture is the drain for the tank.
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Tight quarters ... The braided hoses on the right are the supply lines to the faucets.
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I did everything I could to keep everything space-efficient and neatly organized. All the electrical systems are fed from the terminal strip you see here. The water pump receives a constant (fused) 12V supply and the canopy heater only receives ACC power when the truck is running.
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The heater itself is a 24,700btu unit which moves nearly 300 cubic feet of air per minute. This should be MORE than enough to keep the chill off this winter and keep our dog warm back there! In this shot you can see where the coolant lines enter the box of the truck. Standard heater hose is fed to and from the engine and all lines in the box are 1/2" copper.
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THE DRAWERS

The structure of the drawers was built from 3/4" birch plywood and again bolted securely to the utili-trac system. I fabbed up a pair of turnbuckle braces to secure the side walls just in case. Turnbuckles allowed for micro-adjusting to ensure the walls were as square as possible.
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Detail of turnbuckle system.
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I decided to build roller-bearing slides instead of commercially available slides. This should provide years of solid use! 1" square tubing was bolted to the drawer sides to run between these bearings.
IMG_1190.JPG


The drawers are made with 1/2" birch plywood with 3/4" fronts. Lever-action catches hold them securely in place and I built up some dividers which can be placed in grooves spaced every 6 inches.
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Continued ...

Regards,
-=Doug

Just to refresh the thread.

Now, this is a new standard by which to judge other builds!

Mind if I steal your ideas? LOL
 

ismael D

Adventurer
Your is every nice. I pland to do one a platform like your but with a fridge on the back and able to slide out with the drawer and dual car battery. May be just may be water tank under the bed were the spare tire would be. Just a idea
 

truck mechanic

Adventurer
first off, great build! love it! but as for your flow problem, mb on the 300d used a small pump on their oil burners to get a higher flow to the heater core, may be just what you need. the guys building heated tanks to run wvo use these to get a flow to heat their fuel tank. I got one at a local pick and pull for $20.
just my .02
Paul
 

Chili

Explorer
Love the thread and have read through it and referenced it many times. By far my favorite home-made setup. One thing I may have missed (drinking), if you're willing to share, how much do you think you have in the Drawers and case only? Like wood, screws, bolts, bearings, glue... Not tools of course, I have those. Mine would be scaled down a bit, going into a old Ford Courier bed (5' long, maybe 4.5' wide).

You have any shots of the joinery for the base and drawers? Rabbit on outside corners and such? Type of screws?

Even better, have any actual plans you would share with the dimensions and layout?

Yes, that is a long way of me saying: how can I copy you with as little effort and money of my own! :p

I think I have sufficient info to piece it together, but wouldn't mind knowing of the things to watch out for. Typically, in my projects, I spend half the time figuring out exactly how I am going to construct. Then even more time while in progress, just doing, messing up, and doing it over. lol
 

nickburt

Observer
This is fantastic.

I've been looking for a system for the back of my L200, but never been able to find anything that fits the bill, making use of every square inch of space, without spending fortune on an Outback set of drawers and modifying an already expensive piece of kit to suit my own needs.

Inspiration indeed, thanks you for sharing.

Off to start designing (or, to be more truthful, modifying your design to suit my truck !!!!) :jumping:
 

Luckychase5

Adventurer
Sorry if this was mentioned but how did you mount the square tubing? Awesome build, I'm totally using your roller bearing idea. Also where did you pick those up? Great build and attention to detail btw. Also did you use done plexi for easy sliding? Looks like you mounted something in there
 

KidMechanic

New member
Sorry if this was mentioned but how did you mount the square tubing? Awesome build, I'm totally using your roller bearing idea. Also where did you pick those up? Great build and attention to detail btw. Also did you use done plexi for easy sliding? Looks like you mounted something in there

As for the sq. tubing, drill thru both sides at once with size needed for screw then drill one side larger for the screw head, a drill press makes this easier. I did it this way to make, what I believe, would be a stronger fit. I also ran a shallow dado down the side for the tubing. Skateboard wheel bearings are great for this and cheap, I bought all 56 for my application for under $26 at ESI Bearing in Glendale, Ca, but you probably have someone close to you as well.
 

nickburt

Observer
I was wondering what Doug had used in this build, because he has custom built and not used normal sliders, so latches of some sort would also be different to suit.
 

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