Let me see your "expedition" F250!

[Buliwyf]

What kind of air helper spring setups are you running on your lifted or leveled Superduties?

I've noticed at work that if any of our trailers ride nose down or if any of our trucks/vans ride nose up and tail down......that we'll have no weight transfer during braking and the trucks will not stop on wet roads. They'll just do the ABS dance.

When we take the time to get a lighter truck that sits higher in the rear and lower the hitch on our adjustable trailers then everything works much, much better.

I'm about to lift a Superduty a little. But I'm keeping the rear springs and using blocks in the rear. That way I hope that it'll be easy to add an airbag kit to keep the rear up and level when loaded.

 

[78Bronco]

Even 4" of lift is a little too much for my liking for a working truck. Every time you go to lift something heavy into the box it's just that much further to go. If it were my truck I would look at 2-2.5" of lift at most and you should be able to fit the tires you want.

Also, while I respect what Carli is offering...radius arms drop brackets are so 1980 skyjacker. If you are going to drop the pivot point why not just lengthen the radius arm all together and move the pivot points back along the frame. A longer radius arm offers so much more in the Ford Bronco world. I have even installed the 4 inch lift coils and moved the coil buckets up on the frame to net only 3" of actual lift. The longer coil & shock provide plenty of wheel travel to absorb the bumps offroad at speed, a predictable linear rate coil spring will provide surefooted cornering on road.

Anyway, my 2 cents is keep it low-ish.

 

[Humvette]

I pick up my new to me 2008 F250 4x4 ccsb tomorrow!!! I will be doing all the EGR and DPF deletes, turbo back exhaust, intake and tuner as quickly as i can

Let see some pics.
M

 

[shfd739]

I'd like to see what y'all come up with lifts for these trucks. I'm hoping next year to get an 05-09 Super Duty 4 door short bed and build it up similar to a Dodge Power Wagon but as a Ford. I'd like to keep the lift lowish and flexy and run 35-37" tires. The goal is a truck that can be a do it all for towing and offroading.


Sent from my electronic overbearing life controller

 

[Buliwyf]

I'd like to see what y'all come up with lifts for these trucks. I'm hoping next year to get an 05-09 Super Duty 4 door short bed and build it up similar to a Dodge Power Wagon but as a Ford. I'd like to keep the lift lowish and flexy and run 35-37" tires. The goal is a truck that can be a do it all for towing and offroading.

Sent from my electronic overbearing life controller

From what I've seen so far. A 4" Bds lift will be only a hair taller than the Dodge PowerWagon, but in the same ball park. The PowerWagon uses 315 (35") BFG ATKO's and 4.56 gears. At least last time I saw the sticker on one in a lot.

 

[Buliwyf]

Even 4" of lift is a little too much for my liking for a working truck. Every time you go to lift something heavy into the box it's just that much further to go. If it were my truck I would look at 2-2.5" of lift at most and you should be able to fit the tires you want.

Also, while I respect what Carli is offering...radius arms drop brackets are so 1980 skyjacker. If you are going to drop the pivot point why not just lengthen the radius arm all together and move the pivot points back along the frame. A longer radius arm offers so much more in the Ford Bronco world. I have even installed the 4 inch lift coils and moved the coil buckets up on the frame to net only 3" of actual lift. The longer coil & shock provide plenty of wheel travel to absorb the bumps offroad at speed, a predictable linear rate coil spring will provide surefooted cornering on road.

Anyway, my 2 cents is keep it low-ish.

A 4" lift only raises the rear 2.5" usually and allmost levels the front to the new rear ride ht. A 4" kit often seems to be 5" in the front and 2.5" rear.

It's the sagging rear that I can't stand on lifted trucks towing. That's unacceptable and why I'm lookng into air springs in the rear.

 

[Rovertrader]

First off, I use the Firestone airbags on the Fords- the PW is fine as is. Since there has been some comparison to the PW, I am posting some pics(driveway at the farm, sorry). The PW has a ton of Thuren stuff, but only a 1" front spacer, stock rear and running 37" KM2. The Ford has the add a leaf rear for 1" and a 2.5" front spacer- but I always order the snow plow springs to compensate for the winch. In my previous post I for got to mention the Road Armor(after trying a Ranch Hand) and Warn 10k. The Ford has 37" Goodyear GS-As. Hope this helps...

 

[Rovertrader]

one more...

 

[bat]

This is my old truck and it had Donahoe racing stuff the ride was really nice.

 

[TRDFAN]

What kind of air helper spring setups are you running on your lifted or leveled Superduties?

I've noticed at work that if any of our trailers ride nose down or if any of our trucks/vans ride nose up and tail down......that we'll have no weight transfer during braking and the trucks will not stop on wet roads. They'll just do the ABS dance.

When we take the time to get a lighter truck that sits higher in the rear and lower the hitch on our adjustable trailers then everything works much, much better.

I'm about to lift a Superduty a little. But I'm keeping the rear springs and using blocks in the rear. That way I hope that it'll be easy to add an airbag kit to keep the rear up and level when loaded.

I agree. After I added the leveling kit in the front ,the truck sat about an inch higher in the front. Since the picture above I have added a 2 inch block in the rear and the back now sits slightly higher than the front, and level when loaded.

 

[Humvette]

more pics needed ...

 

[Bullsnake]

Rovertrader-thanks so much for posting those pics!!!

A bit has changed since I first started this post. I was rear ended in my '08 by a grain truck at the COOP, and am heading over to Blair, Nebraska today to pick up a new '11 F250 SD with the long box. I contacted SDHQ and had them change my order for the Carli suspension system for the new truck, and also ordered Fab Four front and rear bumpers as well. With the Fab Four on it I am thinking about running 35" KM2's to try and keep the rolling weight down a little and not kill my over the road performance and milage. I am hoping this rig ends up being as good as my last truck as I was absolutely sick about losing it!

Thanks again everyone for posting up, and please keep them coming! It has been killing me the last few days waiting for the truck, and I am counting down the minutes until I leave for Nebraska!

 

[texasguy]

Don't want to hijack the thread but @rovertrader. Those appear to be stock wheels (possibly mistaken) with the 37's - how's the wear pattern? I have a 04 F250 KR CC diesel - plan to do small lift and considering 325/65/18's (35x12.50x18) on the stock 18x8 wheels and not sure if I truly need to go to something >8". @TRDfan, those appear to be 35's or 37's again on stock wheels - are you happy with that setup?

Another question - has anyone seen a good solid steel wheel (not wagon wheel style) for the 01-04 F250 in a 16 to 18" dia and 9-10" width short of going to a custom place like Stockton Wheels? I am considring going to a 16" with 35's if I decide not to use the stock wheels.

Ok, I guess the hijack is over.

I don't have a pic of the F250 avail at this time but since we all like pics, here is a 95 F250 (+100) I have. All stock - just turned 250k on all original parts except common wear items. Non-expo edition except for the slight left front bumper tweak from a large (and equally tasty) angus cow.

 

[Rovertrader]

they are stock wheels, but mine came with 18s, so I found a set of 17s. Why? The tires I found were $200/ea brand new, and I bought 8 at that price. Also, I am probably going to put the 35s back on the PW, which gives me a set of 37 KM2s as well. I have found much less rubbing issues when using stock wheels- always the correct offset, etc. Also, the preverbial rule of thumb is 10" of sidewall for the best compromise of tire for on/off road. Bottom line, the cost was much cheaper given the deal on the GS-As...

 

[texasguy]

Thanks rovertrader. I am familiar with GSA's - I went through 3 sets of 33x12.50x15 on my Jeep Wrangler. Not a great off-road tire but when you are 90/10 on/off, a very good compromise. Those and the GY MTR's currently on the Jeep are the only GY's I have been pleased with. I have stayed with the OEM 275/65/18 GY ATS's on the 04 and after the 4th set keep asking myself why I have kept going back to them. I should commit your "failure to change" signature to memory.