Liberty, My 97 F250 CCSB

amgvr4

Adventurer
Looking good! Bad alignment sounds like a great excuse to put in a D60 to me! You can do a free tape measure alignment to get your toe correct in about 10 min. If you need one I can make a quick video and post it on youtube if you are not sure how to do one.
 

Seabass

Idiot
My work truck- my other 97 F-350 with 300k on the ticker lets water in at 75mph as well. It's not the first OBS that I've owned that does it. It's probably your windshield gasket. When you twist these trucks the frames twist a lot- so do the cabs. This puts strain on the glass-as glass tends to not flex very well. So, the glass pops out of the gasket/seal at the bottom, or it cracks. Or in my case it does both. I just drive on now. I figure it's just letting some fresh air in the cab!
 

snowaddict91

Adventurer
Yup, I got a few cracks too! She will be getting a new windshield before inspection in october so if that fixes it, great. If not, more fresh air!

As far as the alignment, did some reading on the tape measure today and I think I can figure out where I'm at. Thanks for the tip! I also have ever the slightest negative camber, probably from saggy springs. I think that is doing most of the weird wear on the outside. Will rotate the tires soon for the first time, inspect in further detail, and see if the pattern continues!
 

snowaddict91

Adventurer
Finished piecing together what I needed to put a roof rack on the truck!

Not planning on running it full time, but will likely need it when we head to CO for our wedding in July as we are making almost all the decorations and what not ahead of time and bringing them with us. I am heading out in a week and a half for a solo Moab/Western CO adventure with the dog so have been getting stoked preparing for that trip! Gonna run the roof rack and see how it affects mileage.

Other than that just mostly been using the truck around the valley for bike and dog hauling!
Cutting some firewood for raw materials for table centerpieces!
 

snowaddict91

Adventurer
Guess it's been a while since I updated my thread…been a busy summer. Took a 6 day solo trip to Moab and Western CO with the dog in June. Overall a very needed, relaxing trip

Rosie making sure she doesn't get left behind


Rosie ruining scenic pictures



And napping on the chainsaw


Camp in our old stomping grounds outside Gunnison, CO


Then in July we packed up all of our wedding stuff and took off for a week packed of stress, good times, catching up with old friends and family, and a kick *** party!

Best part of the diesel is loading the bed and roof rack to the gills, putting two bikes on the back, and getting about the same mileage I normally do!

We went on an amazing 10 day trip through ID, OR, and WA for our honeymoon, but we chose to pound pavement in the wife's stratus as we didn't do any camping. Filled up for 2.22/gal last week so I have been enjoying driving the rig a bit more lately!

Gathering parts (slowly) to fix some wiring on the batteries and eventually rebuild tie rods/drag link in the next month or so hopefully. Other than that hoping to do lots of camping and bike hauling through the fall!
 

snowaddict91

Adventurer
Alright a few tech questions after crawling around under my truck a bit this afternoon...
1. I thought my trans pan gasket was starting to seep, but it looks like its actually coming from the dipstick tube. I see where the top piece of tube connects to the bottom piece that is permanently installed to the pan. It is leaking where the two tube pieces meet. After doing some research it appears there is an oring in there. Can I just pull the top tube off and replace the oring? Will I be able to get the top tube off with the trans in place? Really have no interest in dropping the trans just for this.
2. Ttb front diff has a very slight leak (wasn't actually convinced it was even leaking till today). It appears it is coming from the bolts on the front shell (not sure what they are called but on a traditional diff they would hold the cover on). It looks like it is seeping behind those. Do I just need to unbolt them one at a time and seal them with gasket maker? Don't want to pull the whole diff apart to reseal it as the shaft seals are fine.
So two simple to spot leaks with potentially simple or really time consuming fixes...argh!
 

snowaddict91

Adventurer
Well I have spent far too much time dealing with vehicle leaks lately...but I think I made some progress!
1. Cleaned up the trans dipstick tube real good and slapped some rtv around where the upper and lower tubes meet. Seems to be doing the trick.
2. Cleaned up the front diff and torqued all the bolts. No evidence of leaking a few hundred miles later.
Then I found coolant spots in the driveway...from my wife's stratus (that one went to the shop)
Now I am noticing oil residue on the motor in my montero while prepping for a trip...pretty sure this leak has been there awhile, but could never track the faint oil smell till now. Gonna see if I lose any oil on the trip to MT and go from there.
Cars right?!
 

underdrive

jackwagon
Your transmission dipstick question, the upper part of the dipstick is held on by one of the bolts that hold the trans to the engine. You can pull just that bolt and pop the dipstick off no problem, just don't forget to reinstall it.

The front diff is held to the beam by those 10 bolts. Lots of weight there, gasket compresses slightly over time, bolts don't get tightened and a slow leak may occur. If tightening them bolts is all it took to stop the leak, you're a lucky man, dropping that diff for a full reseal is not for the faint of heart.
 

snowaddict91

Adventurer
Been doing some looking to get parts to rebuild the steering, I have a torn boot on one of the TREs and a little bit of roll in both ends, but no play end-to-end yet. Is it worth buying the high-dollar moog stuff for a truck that only sees 6-7k miles a year? I'm not talking about buying the cheapest stuff on rock auto, but I can save a couple hundred$$ buying mid-grade (ac delco, etc.) vs. the moog top of the line stuff. Anyone?
 

underdrive

jackwagon
Some roll/twist is normal for a TRE, it's a ball-in-socket type of joint after all. As long as they're not loose they are fine. Keep in mind most of them are also spring-loaded internally, so the trick some mechanics use where they squeeze the TRE with big channel-locks and if (when) it compress they assume it's bad doesn't work. You can buy just the boots from the aftermarket, in polyurethane even, Prothane makes them in several sizes and they are like $10 for a pair from Summit. Try part # 19-1714-BL, this is for a D60 TRE and black in color, IIRC the D50 TREs are the same size.

Lemme ask you this, are you planning on converting to a Dana 60 any time soon? IF yes then buy whatever cheap stuff you can get, then run it till it's time for the axle swap. If you do like your D50 TTB (it's a good strong axle, just has many haters) and plan on keeping it for the foreseeable future, then yes spring for the best parts. Remember you don't have to do everything all at once, you can replace them one at a time, you just need to get real good at measuring things so you don't have to visit the alignment shop every time.
 

underdrive

jackwagon
Someone made these for T-linkages on Dodge pickups, they were able to get away with using them at both knuckle TRE joints. Hoping that if it works for a Dodge D60 it should work for a Ford D60 as well, cause ours can be quite maddening due to the TRE roll. Just wish it were a bit cheaper, since we gonna need three of them things!

But yeah, the OP's D50 could probably stand to use one of those in the middle joint. Not anywhere else tho, the other three joints move in all directions as the suspension cycles.
 

snowaddict91

Adventurer
Thanks for the discussion guys. Planned to replace everything all at once and get it aligned just to save myself labor of doing components one at a time. Goal is to make my steering a little more responsive but I'm not sure if the linkage is the only place introducing play. This project got put on hold as we bought a 2012 RAV4 for my wife over the weekend that put a big dent in my truck fund here for a bit.

But back to the truck, I have the parts laying around to replace a bad battery cable end one of these days when I get motivation, I will be getting a new windsheild on it next month to pass annual inspection, and I hope to at least replace the torn TRE boot in the next few weeks as my time allows. Will probably just replace the TRE itself or do both sides and drag link/inner tie rod at the same time.

I also have had an intermittent issue lately when I go to start the truck, the starter doesn't engage. Not even a click from the solenoid. This started last winter either when I had the steering wheel apart or when I replaced the batteries and discovered the failing cable end. If it doesn't go away after fixing the cable end, I will investigate further so stay tuned. I really don't think its the starter cause once it goes it spins up 100% normal. But it also only does it when the truck sits for longer than a day or so. Guess we will see!

To all the other OBSers out there, keep up the good work, it gives me some inspiration to tackle the small issues on my truck!
 

snowaddict91

Adventurer
Long time no update...

Well, its been quite a while but I have been busy working on the truck and related projects so I figured it was time for an update. Over the past year I seriously considered selling the truck to get something smaller, but in the end with our future being up in the air after the wife finishes school this coming May we decided to hold on to it until we know where we are going.

I spent all winter driving the truck up Little Cottonwood Canyon to Snowbird without a single issue (that I can remember). I took the truck on a rafting trip for a bachelor party and one of my happiest moments of owning this truck was running 75 down the interstate with a full bed of gear, 6 guys in the cab, raft on the trailer, and the AC cranked. I was proud of the old girl that weekend. This picture was actually on the way to that trip, in the end of May.



Summer went on and we did a few camping trips but I really didn't rack very many miles up this summer. We made 3 trips to weddings in Colorado but drove our new to us RAV4 since no camping was involved.


So the wife and I have kicked around the idea of traveling when she is done with her masters in OT in a program similar to travel nursing. She has always wanted an airstream since she was a child, and after talk of remodeling an old one, we decided we could look at late model trailers and justify the cost since we would live in it full time. We looked at several trailers in person to get an idea of what we like. We also looked at some 5th wheels but decided that wasn't the direction we wanted to go. We planned to use Liberty as our full time tow rig as long as we didn't have any major problems, and I started to plan a list of upgrades for towing: Trans cooler, gauges, catch up on deferred maintenance, and the like.

In early August what appeared to be a very clean '79 Avion trailer came up for sale 20 minutes from our house. My wife agreed reluctantly to go look at it with me, even though her heart was set on a late model Airstream. This thing was all original, immaculate and my wife fell in love with it. We quickly decided that paying cash for an older unit that we could do some minor work on was a much smarter financial decision for us than a $50K airstream. We put a deposit on it that day and brought it home the following week.




The day I brought the trailer home it was pushing 95 degrees and I elected to drive home on surface roads, as I had never pulled anything this big before! As I said before I had plans to add a trans cooler and gauges as I know this is a weak link on these trucks, but with our original plans to buy a trailer next spring, I had not done these mods yet. In hindsight driving 10 miles through the city then spending 30 minutes getting a trailer in your tight driveway is a great way to overheat your trans :oops: so I was treated to 2 quarts of trans fluid puking out the TC area. I spent a few days wondering if I was in far over my head with a 40 year old trailer and 20 year old truck... Fortunately the leak stopped after cooling down and it has not leaked a drop since (about 800 miles ago).

I installed a tru-cool MAX behind the bumper (not super pleased with the hoses coming out of the bottom, but I don't do much wheeling with this truck) and did a full fluid flush and filter at the same time. That was one of the smelliest, dirtiest, nastiest days of my mechanical career :mechanic: The fluid coming out was quite nasty and a lot of sludge on the magnet so I am hoping I solved my overheating problem between a fresh filter to improve flow and a big cooler. The truck shifts great so I am not going to lose sleep over it. I also ordered up a pillar pod with EGT, Trans Temp, and Boost gauges that I have yet to install. The trailer has just been hanging out in my driveway so the gauges haven't been at the top of my list.

OEM cooler


Tru-Cool MAX


Finished product


Liberty already has a brake controller from the PO and the trailer came with a top of the line equalizer hitch. I haven't put very many towing miles on the setup but the hitch seems to work VERY well, I have no plans to add airbags at this point.

So with the Avion in the driveway I have become much more motivated to work on the truck. I have spent a ton of time fixing little things, tinkering, and just laying under the truck inspecting things and getting a better idea of how things work. I didn't grow up working on vehicles so I do a lot of learning as I go. I found a receipt in the truck recently for all new steering parts (except for the one TRE with the torn boot) and a refresh of the wheel bearings, so I now feel more confident that the front end is in good shape. Like I said, I am learning as I go so sometimes I'm not sure how much play is normal, how bad things get before they are completely shot, etc.

Oh and I finally replaced my starter solenoid and now the delayed start I talked about earlier in the thread is gone, she starts like a dream every time now!

I also switched to 5W40 rotella last winter and will continue to run it forever. It makes a noticeable difference in cold starts (even though I have at least one bad glow plug). Again not at the top of my list since I usually plug in in the winter at home and the truck starts down to 20F with no issue. Well it did last winter, we will see if it ever gets cold here this fall...

And in the midst of all this some a$$hat decided to break into my truck at Wal-Mart, so now I have a tinted slider from the junkyard. Its nice during the day, but between that and my topper I can't see a thing out the back at night.
 

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