thexjthatcould
New member
ill never lock a d35 causes nothing but problems.... if you decide to lock it, go to the junkyard and pull a 8.25 w/ the driveshaft, its pretty much bolt on with the xj. very durable axle compared to the dana turdy5 =P
Maybe the people who live before 19th century spend their free time with reading papers or books, doing outdoors activities such playing football, playing tennis or baseball and other traditional balls when the weather is good. While in the bad weathers, they may play some inside doors activities, for example, playing bridge cards.7 inch tablet
Yep, I have a ZJ..and I have the 242 case.
Wait what?
I would suggest a rear locker first. Your best bet is a selectable if you can swing it. If that is too much $ an automatic locker works fine in my experience. The issue on ice/snow roads depends on your driving. When you have an auto locker, because of the wheels turning at different speeds as you go around a corner, your locker will lock up. If you coast the turns in that situation, you will not get the rear sliding out from under you.
Definitely a different style of driving, that requires you to think more than just well... driving, but it is doable. Auto lockers also have fewer parts to break, etc...
That being said, anytime I could afford selectable I have gone that route.
Jeepdreamer and others make a good point about winch and recovery gear. Getting stuck is part of the game... getting UNSTUCK is what defines your ability, IMO.
For that gas tank skid, check ebay. I got a zj skid for my last xj build for $1 plus like $30 shipping. My closest pull a part junk yard is over an hour away, so having this shipped to me was the way to go.
Good luck to you.
John
What rear end do you have? If you have the 44HD then you are very limited on your locker options. I would not drive in snow or ice with a locked rear end.
Body lifting a ZJ can be really hard on the Unibody. 2.5"BB is refering to a "budget boost" and on a ZJ is likely refering to spacers for the coil springs and longer shocks instead of full spring replacment. Or maybe even shock mount extensions in some instances. But I agree with you statement. It seems to me on a 100K miles plus vehicle that the stock suspension parts are quite a bit worn and a budget boost should only be a tempory set up. For me, this seems like a more important item to address first.
An engaged locker will "push" the vehicle straight through a turn on slippery surfaces. If you decide on a locker, I'd get a selectable/manual locker, ARB is the way to go IMO. Ever try to make a turn in a dragster with a spooled rear end? Same thing for the most part.
Having said that, I think your $$$ would be better spent on skid plates and some self recovery points/gear. Hi Lift jack and a good recovery strap can get you out of some really bad situations.
Selectable locker up front...reason is because offroad it will pull you up on obsticles vs pushing you into them like a rear locker! And skid plates..GAS TANK being the first! Then a tcase & maybe the Kevins offroad radiator support? Maybe a beffier crossmember? Or frame stiffeners?
For what its worth I've had locked front only & now only rear locked...front was far better for offroading..made things far easier to climb. Now I kinda gotta bump up & over stuff. I had a spartan & a 231 before. I've now got a detriot rear, swapping to a 242 tcase (fulltime option which is what I want) and eventually a ARB up front.
Just an FYI, basic physics tells us that having only a front locker is about useless once the front end becomes vertical/unweighted, read up on suspension loading/unloading. The more vertical the Jeep becomes, the more the weight shifts to the rear leaving the front with less weight which equates to less traction, this is even more pronounced in a ZJ.
On a stock ZJ with the sway bars attached there is very little unloading of the suspension and a front locker will serve you well.
If you are on long arms and disconnected it is another story altogether.