Lightweight Cabinet Materials - Plywood/Coosa Alternatives

[PCO6]

2x4 is a big cabinet!

I'm constructing a 2'x2'x4' "garage" for the front of a square back trailer I'm building. I'm trying to go with as little wood as possible for the build ... hopefully none. I'm using PVC panels that are 3/16" thick. They're actually drop ceiling panels - about $20 from Lowe's. Most of the internal structure is also PVC 1" "lumber" with some steel reinforcement. The PVC has been easy to work with using basic wood working tools and products (table saw, router, brad nailer, pocket screws, adhesives, etc.).

This is a bit of an experiment and so far so good. I'll seal all of the seams and likely spray the box with Raptor Liner. It will be attached to the frame and not the trailer cabin. In the end if it fails or I'm not happy with it I'll go to Plan 'B' ... although I'm not sure at this time what that is.

 

[danneskjold]

I'm constructing a 2'x2'x4' "garage" for the front of a square back trailer I'm building. I'm trying to go with as little wood as possible for the build ... hopefully none. I'm using PVC panels that are 3/16" thick. They're actually drop ceiling panels - about $20 from Lowe's. Most of the internal structure is also PVC 1" "lumber" with some steel reinforcement. The PVC has been easy to work with using basic wood working tools and products (table saw, router, brad nailer, pocket screws, adhesives, etc.).

This is a bit of an experiment and so far so good. I'll seal all of the seams and likely spray the box with Raptor Liner. It will be attached to the frame and not the trailer cabin. In the end if it fails or I'm not happy with it I'll go to Plan 'B' ... although I'm not sure at this time what that is.

I've never seen the panels at Lowes but my experience with expanded PVC panels is that they dent really easily. Is this something different?

 

[PCO6]

I've never seen the panels at Lowes but my experience with expanded PVC panels is that they dent really easily. Is this something different?

It could but I'm not too worried about it. I've hit scraps of both these 3/16" panels and 3/8" plywood with a ball peen hammer and they both dented.

The front wall of the box s the only one that will be vulnerable. The cabin body will be 14g aluminum and it will be in the line of fire too. My tow vehicles (Jeep LJ & XJ) both have mud flaps. Not perfect but they'll help.

The black tongue box in the above pic might be where the spare wheel & tire will end up. I'm also looking at water tanks for there. If the box stays I could skin the front with aluminum checker plate if dents become a problem.

Here's a link to the panels at Lowe's (Canada). I'm not sure why it's showing $214. They're sold individually and I pay a bit over $20 CDN per panel which is a bit less than $20 USD.

https://www.lowes.ca/product/ceiling-tiles/genesis-smooth-pro-ceiling-tiles-pvc-white-2-ft-x-4-ft-504838

 

[rruff]

I've never seen the panels at Lowes but my experience with expanded PVC panels is that they dent really easily. Is this something different?

They are thin PVC with truss channels inside, 1/2 thick. Kinda like Coroplast.

The panels I linked earlier with FG skins and PP honeycomb core would be far better structurally, and can be had with a gelcoat finish.

 

[Ozarker]

Here's a link to the panels at Lowe's (Canada). I'm not sure why it's showing $214. They're sold individually and I pay a bit over $20 CDN per panel which is a bit less than $20 USD.

https://www.lowes.ca/product/ceiling-tiles/genesis-smooth-pro-ceiling-tiles-pvc-white-2-ft-x-4-ft-504838

rruff beat me to it.
These are made for interior use, in time they won't even survive exterior exposure, sun, wind, rain, hail much less off road use.

Look up Coroplast PVC sign material, made for outdoor use, tuff stuff for the price and very light weight. Light weight materials are fine for light weight stuff, not jacks, chains, recovery gear, tools, etc.

 

[PCO6]

rruff beat me to it.
These are made for interior use, in time they won't even survive exterior exposure, sun, wind, rain, hail much less off road use.

Look up Coroplast PVC sign material, made for outdoor use, tuff stuff for the price and very light weight. Light weight materials are fine for light weight stuff, not jacks, chains, recovery gear, tools, etc.

As for exposure, I'll be spraying the outer box with Raptor Liner. Past experience with Line-x tells me that it works well for this. This time I'm trying Raptor Liner. Sun, wind rain ... no problem. Where I live I might have seen hail twice in my life and I went outside just to see what it's like.

The box has an internal structure made of 1" PVC and steel tube and angle. I'm not relying on the skin for strength. Not sure where the jack, chains, recovery gear tools, etc. came from. The box will be for camping gear. The worst that might happen is that the porta-potty might spring a leak.

 

[simple]

As for exposure, I'll be spraying the outer box with Raptor Liner. Past experience with Line-x tells me that it works well for this. This time I'm trying Raptor Liner. Sun, wind rain ... no problem. Where I live I might have seen hail twice in my life and I went outside just to see what it's like.

The box has an internal structure made of 1" PVC and steel tube and angle. I'm not relying on the skin for strength. Not sure where the jack, chains, recovery gear tools, etc. came from. The box will be for camping gear. The worst that might happen is that the porta-potty might spring a leak.

Sounds neat. I'd like to see your build process and final product.

 

[PCO6]

Sounds neat. I'd like to see your build process and final product.

So will I !!! LOL !

 

[Peter_n_Margaret]

Duraplast sign board material, light, tough stuff, they use it for outdoor signs, available in 4 x 8 sheets or small sizes for yard signs, cheap!

Glue it and screw it or just glue it. Takes paint well.

You could build a camper out of this stuff.

I am building the interior of our truck from multi wall polycarbonate roofing material.
Expensive to purchase, but I have obtained all I need from the distributor's off cuts and rejects for the cost of a few beers.
There is nothing "weak" about this plastic.

Need to learn a few tricks to structurally glue it.
10mm twin wall 1.7kg/m2
10mm multi wall 2.6kg/m2
19mm multi wall 3.1kg/m2
For comparison, 19mm fibreglass sandwich panel is 6 to 6.5kg/m2.
I used the 10mm twin wall version to reduce the weight of the engine hatch from 11kg to 5.9kg and more than half of the 5.9kg was sound deadener.
Almost all of the interior furniture will be built from this stuff, mostly the 10mm twin wall and the 10mm multi wall.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome

 

[Ozarker]

I am building the interior of our truck from multi wall polycarbonate roofing material.
Expensive to purchase, but I have obtained all I need from the distributor's off cuts and rejects for the cost of a few beers.
There is nothing "weak" about this plastic.
View attachment 786044
Need to learn a few tricks to structurally glue it.
10mm twin wall 1.7kg/m2
10mm multi wall 2.6kg/m2
19mm multi wall 3.1kg/m2
For comparison, 19mm fibreglass sandwich panel is 6 to 6.5kg/m2.
I used the 10mm twin wall version to reduce the weight of the engine hatch from 11kg to 5.9kg and more than half of the 5.9kg was sound deadener.
Almost all of the interior furniture will be built from this stuff, mostly the 10mm twin wall and the 10mm multi wall.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome

How do you plan on fastening these plastic sheets together? Screwed to a frame, bolt and washer or glue, maybe all the above?

Any examples of how and where these are used?

 

[dstefan]

FWIW I’ve had really good success with 3M VHB 5952 on Coroplast. Have built lightweight drawers with the 4mm Coroplast, VHB, and aluminum angle for inside corner support. The key is prep, including using 3Ms VHB primer. Also, 3Ms LSE VHB is specifically for plastics.

The drawers have held up amazingly well through 18 months of heavy use. Even had one fall out offroad (I failed to flip down my latch) about 3‘ fully loaded with no damage or separation.

 

[IdaSHO]

Lots of ways to go about it.

For my build I went super simple and lightweight (and inexpensive) by framing and then skinning all interior cabs.
Frames were all built using VG Hemlock, PL glued and pocket screwed.
Bottoms of all cabs utilize 6mm ply. The remainder utilize 3mm birch "door skins"
All were then coated in poly.

Doors are nothing more than 6mm Baltic Birch, with traditional cab door hinges using alloy rivets and stainless pulls.


Forgive the low res images. Its been on the road since 2012, so these images are a bit old

 

[Peter_n_Margaret]

How do you plan on fastening these plastic sheets together? Screwed to a frame, bolt and washer or glue, maybe all the above?

The box is "frameless" fibreglass sandwich panel. The polycarbonate sheets will be used for all of the interior fittings and furniture. It will be held together with Sikaflex 252 and pre-prepared with SP-207 primer. Final finish will be 2 pack paint either gloss white or low gloss colour depending on what it is.
Early days.
Floor in position but not fixed yet, checking furniture and appliance layouts.

Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome

 

[simple]

I am building the interior of our truck from multi wall polycarbonate roofing material.
Expensive to purchase, but I have obtained all I need from the distributor's off cuts and rejects for the cost of a few beers.
There is nothing "weak" about this plastic.
View attachment 786044
Need to learn a few tricks to structurally glue it.
10mm twin wall 1.7kg/m2
10mm multi wall 2.6kg/m2
19mm multi wall 3.1kg/m2
For comparison, 19mm fibreglass sandwich panel is 6 to 6.5kg/m2.
I used the 10mm twin wall version to reduce the weight of the engine hatch from 11kg to 5.9kg and more than half of the 5.9kg was sound deadener.
Almost all of the interior furniture will be built from this stuff, mostly the 10mm twin wall and the 10mm multi wall.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome

I've used this material for a few projects and am constantly thinking about all the possible combinations and applications for it. Keep us in the loop on what you come up with.

 

[simple]

FWIW I’ve had really good success with 3M VHB 5952 on Coroplast. Have built lightweight drawers with the 4mm Coroplast, VHB, and aluminum angle for inside corner support. The key is prep, including using 3Ms VHB primer. Also, 3Ms LSE VHB is specifically for plastics.

The drawers have held up amazingly well through 18 months of heavy use. Even had one fall out offroad (I failed to flip down my latch) about 3‘ fully loaded with no damage or separation.

I'm interested in seeing the details of how you did this if your willing to share.